ballfresno
Established
Hello! I just received a new (to me) Zorki 4, '73 vintage. Much to my surprise, it has no strap lugs. It does have a never-ready case (which is actually in mint condition) but I'm not a big user of cases.
When buying this camera, the last thing I though of asking was whether it had strap lugs or not. I had never imagined a camera without such.
So, my question is: can anybody please suggest a solution to this problem? I don't need to have a strap around my neck; a wrist strap solution is fine with me.
Oh, I did go out yesterday to shoot a test roll and I'm very happy with the camera. Rangefinder is spot on and shutter speeds seem fine. Some photos attached.
When buying this camera, the last thing I though of asking was whether it had strap lugs or not. I had never imagined a camera without such.
So, my question is: can anybody please suggest a solution to this problem? I don't need to have a strap around my neck; a wrist strap solution is fine with me.
Oh, I did go out yesterday to shoot a test roll and I'm very happy with the camera. Rangefinder is spot on and shutter speeds seem fine. Some photos attached.
Attachments
Xmas
Veteran
Replace rivets securing the case front with pop fastners. Or buy a Zorki 2.
Noel
Noel
wolves3012
Veteran
Nice pictures - the Zorki 4 is quite a usable camera. I think some of the early models had strap lugs but they disappeared fairly early on.
You could attach a wrist-strap to a tripod mount, maybe, but I think the Z4 is probably a bit large & heavy to have dangling on your wrist! Many people separate the case halves and use just the lower half. This gives a degree of knock-protection too.
You could attach a wrist-strap to a tripod mount, maybe, but I think the Z4 is probably a bit large & heavy to have dangling on your wrist! Many people separate the case halves and use just the lower half. This gives a degree of knock-protection too.
jobo
Established
I got mine, for the Zorki 4k, at http://www.electricedge.com/gordy_s_straps/store/wrist-tripod/index.htm
, a previous RFF sponsor. Works fine, except that it sticks out a bit too far.
2c, /J
, a previous RFF sponsor. Works fine, except that it sticks out a bit too far.
2c, /J
ballfresno
Established
Thanks all for the suggestions. A wrist strap might be possible. I do have one for my Minox 35 but it's too short. I do wonder if the Z4 is a little heavy for one, however.
Separating the case was my first thought but the front/top seems quite solidly attached to the body half, unlike the one (for instance) for my old Canon SLR which snaps on and off. I don't particularly want to destroy the case given the good condition its in. Maybe I should look around for an old case...
Thanks again!
Separating the case was my first thought but the front/top seems quite solidly attached to the body half, unlike the one (for instance) for my old Canon SLR which snaps on and off. I don't particularly want to destroy the case given the good condition its in. Maybe I should look around for an old case...
Thanks again!
ballfresno
Established
I forgot to say: Noel, I am not sure I understand what you are suggesting. Which rivets?
oh, and buying a Z2 is not out of the question, of course! need to feed my GAS somehow
oh, and buying a Z2 is not out of the question, of course! need to feed my GAS somehow
kestas
Member
try to find old cheap non-working Mir or older Zorki-4 body and just replace the front part of the body. older Z-4 and Mir cameras was with strap lugs
Xmas
Veteran
Eric
My Zorki cases have rivets securing the front flaps to body part, though some (others) might be stiched together.
Noel
My Zorki cases have rivets securing the front flaps to body part, though some (others) might be stiched together.
Noel
P
pshinkaw
Guest
You can make a "U" shaped bracket out of aluminum bar material and attach it to the bottom of the Zorki with a tripod screw. Drill holes in the ends and put in split "O" rings to attach a neckstrap. I've been using an Agfa Karat 36 outfitted like that since 1968. The only tools you need are a hacksaw, a drill and two pairs of Vise-grip pliers.
Old Super-8 movie cameras are a good source of wrist straps if you are inclined to go that way.
If you arereally ambitious you can transplant a pair of strap lugs from another camera. The Zorki originals are actually built like rivets with a flared end. The nicer ones from an old Japanese camera are built like bolts with retaining nuts on the inside or are threaded into a tapped hole in the body.
-Paul
Old Super-8 movie cameras are a good source of wrist straps if you are inclined to go that way.
If you arereally ambitious you can transplant a pair of strap lugs from another camera. The Zorki originals are actually built like rivets with a flared end. The nicer ones from an old Japanese camera are built like bolts with retaining nuts on the inside or are threaded into a tapped hole in the body.
-Paul
ballfresno
Established
Thanks Noel, I understand now. The front flap is indeed rivetted. I think this will be the best approach and even if I destroy the case not much is lost (other than aesthetics...).
kestas and Paul, thanks for your suggestions. I don't have a hacksaw etc but I do have two old Z4's, one which I'm sure I could cannibalize. Is replacing the front part of the camera difficult? I'm a bit of klutz...
kestas and Paul, thanks for your suggestions. I don't have a hacksaw etc but I do have two old Z4's, one which I'm sure I could cannibalize. Is replacing the front part of the camera difficult? I'm a bit of klutz...
Spyderman
Well-known
And this is my protest against Soviet cameras without strap-lugs:
kestas
Member
no, it's not very difficult. just go to Zorki 4K - "HOW TO - CLA" thread here at FSU forum and see photos # 33-42.ballfresno said:
p.s. about Mir camera. this camera has identical body, but without holes for self timer. so, if you need your self timer, you cant use front part from Mir.
btw, i like the way how Spyderman solved this problem
HuubL
hunter-gatherer
The strap lugs (plus the more vintage looking window frames, the vulcanite instead of the nylon wrap, and the etched instead of printed logo and markings) made me choose a first series, 1958 Zorki 4. It cost me the sum of 30 euros , but I really like that camera!
BTW, Well-done Ondrej! Is it still light proof?
, but I really like that camera!BTW, Well-done Ondrej! Is it still light proof?
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Xmas
Veteran
Many FSU Fed and Zorki cases will probably fit your cameras, the snap rings would waste a nice case if the case is nice. leather worker may be the simplest solution.
Interchanging camera parts is not easy...
Noel
Interchanging camera parts is not easy...
Noel
Spyderman
Well-known
There was no space inside for a nut, so I just cemented it to the shell... I used some 2-part slow epoxy and it's sturdy and light-tight
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
The first Zorki and FED did not have strap lugs, just like the Leica II. Lugs were introduced with the Zorki-2 and the later models, but even those which originally had strap lugs lost them in their later runs.
I believe the lugs were taken off these models starting 1968 or so. Note that the last FED-2 (which also had lugs) also didn't have them. Most likely as a production shortcut since the lugs were viewed as redundancies given that the cameras would be placed in cases which had lugs and straps themselves.
When purchasing a Zorki-4 (or FED-2), it's important to know what the production year of the camera was. The first two digits would tell this. Even among Zorki-4, those made before 68 or 69 would also determine whether the speeds marked on their shutter dials were engraved or printed. Obviously, the former would be more desirable,
Jay
I believe the lugs were taken off these models starting 1968 or so. Note that the last FED-2 (which also had lugs) also didn't have them. Most likely as a production shortcut since the lugs were viewed as redundancies given that the cameras would be placed in cases which had lugs and straps themselves.
When purchasing a Zorki-4 (or FED-2), it's important to know what the production year of the camera was. The first two digits would tell this. Even among Zorki-4, those made before 68 or 69 would also determine whether the speeds marked on their shutter dials were engraved or printed. Obviously, the former would be more desirable,
Jay
reagan
hey, they're only Zorkis
My first Zorki.4 lacked lugs as well and I just KNEW I needed lugs. Since then (and several Zorkis later) I've found I never attach anything to lugs but have opted to converting cases to half-cases as mentioned above. Half-cases are much easier attached and removed than straps on lugs... IMHO.
edit: BTW, if the camera is working well, I don't know if I'd be swapping parts. Things (light leaks and such) could get complicated. Just a thought.
Since then (and several Zorkis later) I've found I never attach anything to lugs but have opted to converting cases to half-cases as mentioned above. Half-cases are much easier attached and removed than straps on lugs... IMHO.edit: BTW, if the camera is working well, I don't know if I'd be swapping parts. Things (light leaks and such) could get complicated. Just a thought.
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