Current Inkjet Options for B/W

Decide to start with Epson Velvet Fine Art and Moab Juniper Baryta Rag for B&W prints, the like the results for both but like the Moab a bit more. May give one of the Canson Infinity Baryta papers a try next.
 
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So now that I've been printing like crazy for nearly a week, I have some observations.

- This Ilford GFP paper is really well-matched to this printer. I only tried one other glossy baryta paper (Pictran), which is actually quite close, but the surface of the Ilford looks just a hair better to me. Since the only other baryta papers readily available in Japan are the Pictran and much more expensive Hahnemuhle and Canson, Ilford it is for me.

- "Ink Low" doesn't mean anything, apparently.

- Smudges on the borders can be solved with the simple platen gap, as has been detailed elsewhere online.

Now for the question part:
I ordered a sample pack of Awagami washi papers, just out of curiosity. They are all matte papers , and even though I think I will do most of my main printing on the glossy Ilford (well, pearl), I'd like to make sure I am getting the best out of these papers in case I want to use them for real one of these days. They have a great feel.

So any recommended settings to get a solid black and good snap/contrast? My test prints so far are nice and detailed, but since I am used to glossy, just not very deep and snappy. I tried increasing ink density and adjusting the ABW settings to get more contrast, but nothing was quite substantially more "wow" than my usual settings. Some were a little muddier without being significantly blacker. Do people use fairly extreme settings with matte, or is this just the ceiling of what can be done with it? I used the Epson Velvet media type.
 
If you want ultimate control of black and white you might want to check out Quadtone RIP which supports the P700. There are some premade profiles for different papers which you could try and then tweak from there. But it is a steep learning curve.
 
If you want ultimate control of black and white you might want to check out Quadtone RIP which supports the P700. There are some premade profiles for different papers which you could try and then tweak from there. But it is a steep learning curve.
I actually have that installed and just ran a couple of prints. You're right about the learning curve - using the included profiles and default settings, it looks very weak compared to ABW. I'd have to spend more time than I'm willing to get deep into that.
 
So now that I've been printing like crazy for nearly a week, I have some observations.

- This Ilford GFP paper is really well-matched to this printer. I only tried one other glossy baryta paper (Pictran), which is actually quite close, but the surface of the Ilford looks just a hair better to me. Since the only other baryta papers readily available in Japan are the Pictran and much more expensive Hahnemuhle and Canson, Ilford it is for me.

- "Ink Low" doesn't mean anything, apparently.

- Smudges on the borders can be solved with the simple platen gap, as has been detailed elsewhere online.

Now for the question part:
I ordered a sample pack of Awagami washi papers, just out of curiosity. They are all matte papers , and even though I think I will do most of my main printing on the glossy Ilford (well, pearl), I'd like to make sure I am getting the best out of these papers in case I want to use them for real one of these days. They have a great feel.

So any recommended settings to get a solid black and good snap/contrast? My test prints so far are nice and detailed, but since I am used to glossy, just not very deep and snappy. I tried increasing ink density and adjusting the ABW settings to get more contrast, but nothing was quite substantially more "wow" than my usual settings. Some were a little muddier without being significantly blacker. Do people use fairly extreme settings with matte, or is this just the ceiling of what can be done with it? I used the Epson Velvet media type.


Matte papers always look weak compared to glossy; there's nothing you can do to change that. Make sure you use the Matte Black Ink for your matte papers; that does make a big difference, though the matte prints will still never have the deep blacks of a glossy paper.
 
Matte papers always look weak compared to glossy; there's nothing you can do to change that. Make sure you use the Matte Black Ink for your matte papers; that does make a big difference, though the matte prints will still never have the deep blacks of a glossy paper.
I looked again at some manufacturer sample books (Ilford today), and they manage to get insanely black blacks on their rag and other matte papers, so I’m thinking the Awagami just might be particularly not great for dmax. Just wanted to make sure it wasn’t user error. I set the media type to Velvet, which should switch to matte black ink automatically.
 
I looked again at some manufacturer sample books (Ilford today), and they manage to get insanely black blacks on their rag and other matte papers, so I’m thinking the Awagami just might be particularly not great for dmax. Just wanted to make sure it wasn’t user error. I set the media type to Velvet, which should switch to matte black ink automatically.
Kozo papers, like Awagami, are poor to terrible for DMax. The blacks of platinum develop-out emulsions, the highest DMax materials that I know, on kozo look . . . mildly dark.
 
It might be worth buying a sample test pack of papers if they are available from the manufacturer.

One thing I have found is the presence of optical brighteners makes a big differece to the look and contrast of a (especially) matte print. The ones often labelled 'bright white' look completely different to the non-OBA warm papers. But the OBAs degrade over time and shift the tones of the original print.

I also find that printing a 'neutral' image on a warm paper often results in a greenish hue which I don't like. You have to experiment.
 
It might be worth buying a sample test pack of papers if they are available from the manufacturer.

One thing I have found is the presence of optical brighteners makes a big differece to the look and contrast of a (especially) matte print. The ones often labelled 'bright white' look completely different to the non-OBA warm papers. But the OBAs degrade over time and shift the tones of the original print.

I also find that printing a 'neutral' image on a warm paper often results in a greenish hue which I don't like. You have to experiment.
I just found a sample pack of the ilford matte papers, so we will see what happens when that arrives.
 
Matte papers always look weak compared to glossy; there's nothing you can do to change that. Make sure you use the Matte Black Ink for your matte papers; that does make a big difference, though the matte prints will still never have the deep blacks of a glossy paper.
This is absolutely true, it's a physical factor. In my work in a chemical company in the color field, dyes and pigments I was oft confronted by clients with the point "that competitors black is deeper than yours" but a real comparison can be made only if two different black have the same grade of opacity. You can see the difference printing a subject with a large part of black on a matt paper and than cover part of it with a transparent piece of plexiglas: you will notice how the "not vivid" black changes charachter!

I found on my Epson P900 the ABW mode gives very good prints. I print 90% of my photos B&W or color on matt paper, most of times Hahnemüle because of my personal taste.

I used some Awagami paper in the past, when I printed a series of scanned Polaroid for an exhibition and found the Awagami renders the visual of my oft out of focus Polaroids (desired effect!). If I correct remeber there are on the packets instructions about which profiles for the Epson printers (Canon too I think).

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iPhone photo
 
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