RichW
Established
Just figured it out with Kodak film, let me know if anyone wants the details and i'll write it up - thought i'd ask before I do so so I don't waste my time if no one actually cares 🙂
Cheers, Richard
Cheers, Richard
12 Exposures possible on Zeiss Super Ikonta 530/16
- Thread starter RichW
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farlymac
PF McFarland
Count me as one who cares. Once I get my 532/16 fixed, this will be good info to know.
PF
PF
pb908
Well-known
count me in !
Did you get the extra count before the frame 1 or after frame 11?
Did you get the extra count before the frame 1 or after frame 11?
RichW
Established
Ok, sorry for the late reply
Well this has worked for me so far with Kodak film only (Tri-X and Portra). I actually wasted a whole roll of film just to test it to find out exactly how to line it up, this works for the 530/16 i'm not sure about later models, if the red window is in exactly the same place it should work
Anyway this is what I have come up with -
1. Load the film as usual - make sure the film locking device is disengaged when you do so (the picture counter needs to be past 11) and leave the red window open.
2. Wind the film on slowly until an arrow appears in the red window and stop when it is centered, you can shut the red window now
3. Wind the film winding knob on exactly two full revolutions (my Ikonta has a black dot on the knob making this easier)
4. Hold down the picture counter disc and turn it until it reaches "1"
And that is it for the first section, in reality it is exactly the same as loading normally except the film should not be wound on so far as "1" in the red window - in doing so you are just wasting film, the two turns from the arrow method I worked out as being perfect for Kodak film by testing it with the back opened (thereby wasting that film)
5. Take all eleven exposures as normal and then wind the film winding knob on once more until it reaches where a "12" should be on the picture counter disc (my camera also has a black dot here indicating so)
6. The shutter wont release here as the film locking device has become disengaged so hold down the picture counter disc until it goes round to "1" again and you feel a resistance (film locking device engaged)
7. Take the 12th exposure!
8. Wind the film winding knob on until the picture disc reaches "2"
9. Set the shutter tension lever as if you are going to take another exposure, hold down the shutter release knob and at the same time press down and rotate the picture counter disc until the counter passes "11" (this is so the film locking device once again becomes disengaged)
10. Turn the film winding knob on until the film has been fully transferred to the other sprocket
11. Take film out and have developed!
This all sounds quite complicated as I read it back but it really isn't, just practise and it's worth it to get that extra exposure!
Here is an image that should explain the red window process -
Once that arrow is in the window - wind on twice and the window will now have no indicator to show where it is yet this image shows you where it actually is in relation to the "1"
(It needs to be inbetween the 6x9 "1" and the 6x6 "1" - if you match it up to the 6x6 "1" as I thought it best to do first until I tried it with the back off then this is too early and the film isn't fully covering the lens opening)
Hope this helps someone
Cheers!
Richard
Well this has worked for me so far with Kodak film only (Tri-X and Portra). I actually wasted a whole roll of film just to test it to find out exactly how to line it up, this works for the 530/16 i'm not sure about later models, if the red window is in exactly the same place it should work
Anyway this is what I have come up with -
1. Load the film as usual - make sure the film locking device is disengaged when you do so (the picture counter needs to be past 11) and leave the red window open.
2. Wind the film on slowly until an arrow appears in the red window and stop when it is centered, you can shut the red window now
3. Wind the film winding knob on exactly two full revolutions (my Ikonta has a black dot on the knob making this easier)
4. Hold down the picture counter disc and turn it until it reaches "1"
And that is it for the first section, in reality it is exactly the same as loading normally except the film should not be wound on so far as "1" in the red window - in doing so you are just wasting film, the two turns from the arrow method I worked out as being perfect for Kodak film by testing it with the back opened (thereby wasting that film)
5. Take all eleven exposures as normal and then wind the film winding knob on once more until it reaches where a "12" should be on the picture counter disc (my camera also has a black dot here indicating so)
6. The shutter wont release here as the film locking device has become disengaged so hold down the picture counter disc until it goes round to "1" again and you feel a resistance (film locking device engaged)
7. Take the 12th exposure!
8. Wind the film winding knob on until the picture disc reaches "2"
9. Set the shutter tension lever as if you are going to take another exposure, hold down the shutter release knob and at the same time press down and rotate the picture counter disc until the counter passes "11" (this is so the film locking device once again becomes disengaged)
10. Turn the film winding knob on until the film has been fully transferred to the other sprocket
11. Take film out and have developed!
This all sounds quite complicated as I read it back but it really isn't, just practise and it's worth it to get that extra exposure!
Here is an image that should explain the red window process -
Once that arrow is in the window - wind on twice and the window will now have no indicator to show where it is yet this image shows you where it actually is in relation to the "1"
(It needs to be inbetween the 6x9 "1" and the 6x6 "1" - if you match it up to the 6x6 "1" as I thought it best to do first until I tried it with the back off then this is too early and the film isn't fully covering the lens opening)
Hope this helps someone
Cheers!
Richard
Platinum RF
Well-known
The simple way - shoot 11, then turn the film advance level approximate same angle like 10-11 count space, trigger the shutter use the linking bar on the door.
RichW
Established
Not sure what you mean by linking bar on the door, plus if you shoot 11 without loading the film differently as I wrote above the there is a likelyhood you will run out of film for the 12th exposure
R
Rangefinderfreak
Well-known
Is film really THAT expensive...?
RichW
Established
Ok, so I have made this explanation much more complicated than it really needs be, essentially I have covered the general loading instructions from the manual which are quite tricky anyway if you have never used such a camera
Here are the instructions in simple terms -
Load film, dont wind it on quite as much as you would normally, take 11 pictures, wind on to 12th, wind counter back to 1, take 12th picture,
really not that complicated at all but just comes across that way as I wanted to be clear above
And yes film and developing is expensive here in London, with current prices and local developing, I am paying over £1 per exposure - that adds up!
Cheers, Richard
pb908
Well-known
film may be not THAT expensive, but extra frame on limited frame medium format is better ..
farlymac
PF McFarland
Platinum RF
Well-known
There is link from the shutter release button to the shutter trigger, load film and shot 11 as instructed in the user manual, then turn additional angle like the one between 10-11, you are on 12 frame, you cannot release the shutter by use the release button, it is locked. Use the metal link bar on the folded door to the shutter.
Kevin Brown
Established
I think I can clarify/simplify this a bit; OP and Platinum RF are both partly right.
The first part of OP's method is fine, but the end-of-roll part is needlessly complicated, and Platinums' simpler one, in my experience results too often in 11/12 overlaps, or 12 running off the end of the roll.
Load/start roll per OP's method. For the two full revolutions wind-on-past-the-arrow to work, it has to be from the point where the tip of the first arrow that appears is centered in the window (this is the upper of two arrows that will appear. If you accidentally go past it, line up the tip of the second/lower arrow, then wind on one and one-half turns). Close window and set counter to 1.
After exposing frame 11, wind on just over one full turn of the wind knob. As per Platinum, shutter released with tab at lower front of lens standard or with cable release.
The only part of this that isn't fool-proof is that one has to be aware when one is at frame 11 and not just wind-on blindly after exposing it.
The first part of OP's method is fine, but the end-of-roll part is needlessly complicated, and Platinums' simpler one, in my experience results too often in 11/12 overlaps, or 12 running off the end of the roll.
Load/start roll per OP's method. For the two full revolutions wind-on-past-the-arrow to work, it has to be from the point where the tip of the first arrow that appears is centered in the window (this is the upper of two arrows that will appear. If you accidentally go past it, line up the tip of the second/lower arrow, then wind on one and one-half turns). Close window and set counter to 1.
After exposing frame 11, wind on just over one full turn of the wind knob. As per Platinum, shutter released with tab at lower front of lens standard or with cable release.
The only part of this that isn't fool-proof is that one has to be aware when one is at frame 11 and not just wind-on blindly after exposing it.
Dozen
Newbie
Thanks so much for this. Film is expensive and a saving of something around 10% is worth the effort to say nothing of being one shot more away from fiddling in the wild reloading.
D
D