35mm: Used Summilux FLE vs. New Cron asph

jacobjuul

Member
Local time
6:31 AM
Joined
Jan 23, 2019
Messages
13
Hi,

I have a dilemma. I have been offered to buy a 9 year old summilux FLE in pretty good condition for exactly the same price as a new summicron 35mm asph.

I shoot mainly film, so in indoor settings, the 1.4 would be useful, but other than that I would be perfectly happy with an F2.

This is going to be my daily carry lens which means size is a consideration, but I tried out both in my local Leica store, and the size difference (with hoods attached), seemed very small.

So should I go for the newer summicron or take the summilux FLE?
 
I have owned and used several 35mm Summicron Asph since it came out 20 years ago and could never get along with it due to the high contrast and clinical look. I shoot b/w and prefer a lower contrast lens. The FLE is my current user and it is just about perfect. If they are priced the same then go for the Summilux. I think if you change your mind in the future you can sell it and buy a Summicron and maybe make some money.
 
I have both, though my Cron Asph is the previous version with clip-on rather than screw-on hood.

Much prefer the FLE over the Cron.

But... if F2 is fast enough for your max. aperture, just buy a Voigtlander Ultron 35/2 and save yourself a heap of cash. Its optically every bit as good as a Cron Asph, and actually a better lens if you don't like the Cron Asph's pincushion distortion (the Ultron has very minor barrel distortion like the FLE).
 
I have the Cron Asph and the lens flare is absolutely awful so I would get the FLE in a heart beat.
Also being a film shooter the extra stop is really handy.
 
Thanks, everyone for your replies.

I went to the seller 1 hour ago ready to buy the lens. However, when I saw the lens I noticed it had cleaning marks (don't know if that's the right term) on the front element. It looked like it was dirty around the outer edge of the front-element and I couldn't clean it with a lens cloth.
I am sure this won't affect image quality, but still, I left without the lens and have to think about it.
 
I don't bother with any of those two on film.
Summarit-M 35 2.5 (ASPH). 2.4 version of it still available as new.
If I ever feel limited by it on film, I'll add 35 1.4 II Nokton.

FLE makes sense on digital where focus shift is more dominant, IMO.

One note, "mainly film" is wide term. It could be expensive kodak porta of slow ISO or it could be Kentmere 400 @1600... I don't use slow ISO films.
So, if it is color film, slow ISO and indoors, get 1.2 lens.
 
I'm surprised the Summicron ASPH isn't getting any love. It's one of my favorites of all time. I feel like the size is just about perfect, and ergonomics are great. I had an earlier 35 Lux ASPH (not FLE) and just felt like it was too big and not that great for my daily use. Sounds like I need an FLE and try again...
 
I'm surprised the Summicron ASPH isn't getting any love. It's one of my favorites of all time. I feel like the size is just about perfect, and ergonomics are great. I had an earlier 35 Lux ASPH (not FLE) and just felt like it was too big and not that great for my daily use. Sounds like I need an FLE and try again...

I agree with Slantface here the Summicron Asph renders very nicely, and wide open, I recall enjoying a bit more contrast than my current v4. The v4 is fine and I do prefer it ergonomically (size). The 1st version Summicron Asph was a lens I had when still shooting my M2/M6 and found it to render really well....more contrast but not objectionably so. I also found wonderful results shooting it with the RD-1 and then M8.

73853678.sMkesPoP.SFMartini1.jpg


M6 35mm Summicron Asph
 
Ya gotta learn to use the flare to your advantage.

How much did you play with the curves to pull that out?

The problem with the lens is the overall veiling flare that can kill the entire image. Turns it into an overall hazy low contrast mess.
 
I sold my Cron ASPH (first version) not long after I got it because of the flare - traded it on a brand new silver ASPH Lux (pre FLE) and never regretted it (also I have never seen any focus shift with my Lux on either M8 or M9). The Lux is fantastic with B&W film where you will never regret having F1.4 - where images are always very sharp.
 
FLE for sure.
Had the ASPH version 1 for a while. Flared and also focus shifted too much to easily compensate. The new version has been tweaked for digital but it's the same old design from 1996.
 
Not allot, I mostly played with the contrast a whole.

I didn't find the image that muddy either.

How much did you play with the curves to pull that out?

The problem with the lens is the overall veiling flare that can kill the entire image. Turns it into an overall hazy low contrast mess.
 
Not allot, I mostly played with the contrast a whole.

I didn't find the image that muddy either.

I could tell. Pumped up the contrast to burn through that veiling flare to get definition.
You have created a cool image, in-spite of the len’s inability to handle
flare.
 
My only beef w the Summicron Asph is lens flare.
Everything else is great.

If you look at the comparison I did with my Summicron Asph you will see that that lens also has some distortion.

The ugly barrel distortions that you claim, w/o having used one, is no less ugly than in the Summicron 35

Shot the louvre in Abu Dhabi. 7artisans 35mm, LeicaM6, kodak ektrachome, scanned on hasselblad imacon.

images are 34mpixel, was a quick scan, might be some dust on it, quick conversion to jpeg with apple-preview from tiff format, no corrections done.

Sharpness is amazing, barrel distortion is present.

louvre3.jpg

louvre6.jpg

Flares like lomography lens and distortions just same as from 7A 35 f2 cheap lens.
Anyone still wants to pay for new Cron ASPH after seen, reading this?
 
I am curious if the flaring issues are there when using the hood?

Yes. I only use the hood. And w/o any filter to give it the best chance possible.
It really is disappointing to have flare resistance as bad as this for a lens as expensive as this.

The last shot posted above shows how bad it is, before you try to cook the image by boosting contrast and the curves to cut through that haze.
 
Back
Top Bottom