Linkert
Established
Went to a local thrift store and found a Meopta Axomat 4 (regular b&w version) with a Nikon lens in perfect shape. Sadly no medium format can be done on this enlarger, but 135 film will do just fine 
I though I'd make this thread to collect my progress, questions and finished work. All in the same thread. Hopefully other beginners might find this thread to be a useful resource of trial, error and questions.
No questions so far as I need to hold off for a while with purchases
Nasty iPhone 4 photo
I though I'd make this thread to collect my progress, questions and finished work. All in the same thread. Hopefully other beginners might find this thread to be a useful resource of trial, error and questions.
No questions so far as I need to hold off for a while with purchases
Nasty iPhone 4 photo
SayCheese
Established
Have fun with it!
I' ve got the same enlarger, with the M39 lens board and a color head. As far as i can say, it's a perfectly capable device for 35mm film.
Regards, Klaus
I' ve got the same enlarger, with the M39 lens board and a color head. As far as i can say, it's a perfectly capable device for 35mm film.
Regards, Klaus
Jockos
Well-known
I got the same, with the Nikon 50/2.8, but currently no where to set up shop..
Did you get any filters with it? Otherwise I strongly recommend getting some, so that you don't have to buy different grade papers!
Did you get any filters with it? Otherwise I strongly recommend getting some, so that you don't have to buy different grade papers!
kyonthinh
Established
He can get any grade in multigrade paper with color head Jockos, so it's not a problem.
Linkert
Established
It had one red filter attached, and I'll start with that. I've seen the Ilford multigrade contrast filters on "the art of photography" och youtube. Seems like a wonderful system.
What kind of developer do you use for prints? Same type as for the negatives or are there some special type of developer for paper prints?
I have only developed my negatives in caffenol (Delta-STD recipe) with great results. Therefore I have little to no knowledge about regular brand type developers. I know Rodinal is supposed to be a classic.
Also, how important is the stop bath for prints really? I've always gone from "Caffenol -> Water rinse -> Fixer -> Water rinse" when developing negatives.
What kind of developer do you use for prints? Same type as for the negatives or are there some special type of developer for paper prints?
I have only developed my negatives in caffenol (Delta-STD recipe) with great results. Therefore I have little to no knowledge about regular brand type developers. I know Rodinal is supposed to be a classic.
Also, how important is the stop bath for prints really? I've always gone from "Caffenol -> Water rinse -> Fixer -> Water rinse" when developing negatives.
SayCheese
Established
The red filter is the blocking filter, it is not meant to be used for contrast control.
Most people use a dedicated paper developer, such as Dektol.
Stop bath is needed to protect the fixer from being contaminated and to ensure constant developing times. I think most people use Stop for printing.
Greetings, Klaus
Most people use a dedicated paper developer, such as Dektol.
Stop bath is needed to protect the fixer from being contaminated and to ensure constant developing times. I think most people use Stop for printing.
Greetings, Klaus
kyonthinh
Established
I use cheap Calbe N113.
You don't need any filter, as you can make any grade with color setting.
You don't need any filter, as you can make any grade with color setting.
MISH
Well-known
although the box in the picture says color in the original post he says it is the "regular b&w version" I doubt that a color head would have a red blocking filter. If it is not a color head a contrast filter set would be appropriate for multigrade paper. At any rate I would consider any enlarger with a Nikor lens for that price to be a good deal
Dayrell bishop
Well-known
Ive got the magnifax 4 with a colour head and thats got the red blocking filter.In fact I think they all have them as the heads are interchanegable.
Jockos
Well-known
The red filter wont do you any good, normal paper is not sensitive to red light, that's why you can use a safelight.
I used to use Rollei paper developer, It did its job and is pretty cheap in bulk
With the stop, you can reuse your fixer longer. Also it's pretty cheap, so likely a good investment.
Dwig
Well-known
Not really correct.
The red filter can be useful when used for the intended purpose. The red filter allows you to position the easel or, more usefully, various dodging and/or vignetting tools with the enlarger lamp on and the image visible without actually exposing the paper. This works, though, only when the tools are rigidly mounted. Personally, I always used handheld tools so I never used the red filters my various enlargers had.
Sometimes you see reference to using the red filter for focusing. This is a poor technique for several reasons. One, unless the filter is of good optical quality it will influence the focus., Two, you would be focusing with red light, which the paper can't see, and not focusing with the blue that it does see. Any chromatic aberration in the lens could lead to incorrect focus as a result.