50-year old spool of Super-XX, think it's good?

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rich815

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Look what I just got a hold of. (See attached photos)

Fully sealed and looks unopened.

Think it's still any good, or fogged completely up?

Should I load it into one of my bulk loaders, spool some up and try it?

Or put it up for auction for some collector to buy?
 

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Don't bother opening it...I bought some (a whole bunch actually) of Kodak Verichrome 120 Dated March 1952 (Tropical Packing)
I shot a roll or two and tried to develope it...nothing...
I think the last roll I tried I developed for a half hour and barely saw any image through the fog...

Anyone who needs this film for "Show n Tell" let me know...I got plenty and the boxes are in perfect condition...
 
I understand you can add chemicals to the developer to combat the fog. Don't remember what it is, you can check over at APUG for info.

That said, is your interest priority taking pictures or experimenting with photo gear/processes, etc.

Sell it and buy some good film, make pictures!

JMHO :)
 
Thanks for your thoughts. I'm still really curious. I got a hold of a 100' spool of Eastman Plus-X 5231 movie stock from 1972 a few months back and it worked just fine. Developed quite nicely actually. I did buy it from someone who said it was in their closet for something like 20 years......in Alaska! Maybe that helped!
 
benzotriazole is one anti-fog agent. I remember the word and can spell it, but don't know how to use it (the chemical).

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=6759 shows a couple images from poorly stored Ansco Pan 620 film - somewhere I got the idea it was from the 60's, but don't know for sure.

So, unless an unopened can has display appeal as someone suggested (maybe an empty cannister does too), try it. You've enough to figure out what works.

I shot it at EI 25...it had lots of problems, but it worked...curly as a pig's tail too.
 
Tom A, (he has a button on this forum to get to his site,) employs more current cine reels of this stock. He uses anti fog at need and will help, he is sometimes on line be patient.

Neol
 
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FP4 from 1995???

FP4 from 1995???

I just got a couple of rolls of FP4 due date July 1995, stored at room temp. Would you bother trying these?
 
I have a pack of Azo paper that expired in 1918. I would try it, but they recommend printing by gaslight.

If you are curious, try the Super X, but you will be disappointed. Film is not like wine, it does not age well.
 
HuubL said:
I just got a couple of rolls of FP4 due date July 1995, stored at room temp. Would you bother trying these?

Those should be fine. I have a load of old bulk rolls of HP5+ and Tri-X from the mid 90's that are just fine.
 
What about expired Kodak HIE? It's been in the refrigerator for a several years; I was about to toss it as I've read that IR film doesn't age very well. But it's also expensive stuff--is it worth trying?
 
Ditto. I acquired a stash of Panatomic X that's even older & it looks fine shot as rated (ISO 32).

rich815 said:
Those should be fine. I have a load of old bulk rolls of HP5+ and Tri-X from the mid 90's that are just fine.
 
I regularly buy old film that is 'stale dated' I put it in various cameras I want to use for 'special effects' but are capable of providing good images. I have an Argus C3 and a Yashica GSN that I use for this film.

Sometimes the film gives me a grainy , blown out, blotchy, under exposed look. I like this and shoot this film in the hope there will be one of those "lucky moments". If not I have a reasonably good shot from film that is still good.

Personally I'd shoot it all. Keep the wrapper, cannister and one roll of the film and sell it all on Ebay. More film from the proceeds... bonus!
 
Here's a possibly stupid question ... I notice the lack of the name "Kodak" anywhere on the label. Was this on a label somewhere else, or did they customarily leave it off?

rich815 said:
Or put it up for auction for some collector to buy?

LOL, try e-bay, somebody will buy it. :)

Seriously, Super-XX was my dad's fave film. It went away before I got into any serious photography, although I heard it was available in sheet film in the 1970s.
 
Well, seems almost 50/50 with some people saying it will be useless and to keep the spool and canister intact, a few others saying give it a try!

I am really curious and am leaning towards a try. The canister will no longer be intact and sealed of couse but I'm not altogether sure I can get all that much for it on eBay as a relic, maybe $20 or so? Besides, even without film inside the canister itself might be worth almost as much. Heck, I really do not care about $20. If somehow such a relic intact was worth $100 or more I'd think about it. I imagine the Eastman Kodak musuem has a crapload of old canisters and would have little to any interest in this one....

I may just load it into the bulk loader, spool a roll, and shoot it with my MP and Summarit and see what I get.

I thought Super-XX was a 200 speed film but the canister says 100. I guess for the first roll I'd try shooting at ASA 25 and see what I get in HC-110.

Now I just need to find some developing times for Super-XX. Otherwise I'll just try 6 minutes with dilution B in HC-110....unless someone else has any ideas???
 
you might find that the outside of the spool is bad, but the inside is good enough. However, I've never tried anything even close to that old.
 
You will possibly have some base-fog (grayish tint on sprocket "strip" and lower contrast. After 50 years gamma rays tend to fog it a bit. The rule of thumb for me is to drop the speed a stop/decade. If the film was rated 100 ASA 50 years ago, you can expect about 20-25 ASA now. The filmbase might be a bit brittle, but it should be OK. You need to get some Kodak Anti Fog #2 pills. This is Benzotriazole, an antifog agent. You use 1 tablet per 1000 ml (you have to crush them and let them dissolve in water prior to adding them to the developer). It will cut the fog dramatically, although it will not eliminate it. longer printing time and upping the contrast a bit will help with this.
If you can find Benzotriazole in powder form, you can mix a 1% solution (1 gram of Benzo/100 ml water - use hot water as benzo dissolves badly in cold.) Add 10 ml of this to your developer (1000 ml) and this will help. Dont add more of it as that will slow the film down even further!
As fo developer, use something like D 76 or Rodinal (with Rodinal I would try first with a 1:50/ 10 minutes and see what shows up). Load up about 30 exposures worth in a cassette and bracket wildly. Start of at nominal speed 100 ASA and keep opening up one stop for each shot (that would give you 50/25/12/6 asa). Shoot a variety of scenes, bright, cloudy and dark. Run the film and you will see what works.
Some films store very well, I have Tech Pan that still is labelled SO 115 (1978) and it works fine. Panatomic X from the early 80' is OK although a bit slower (25 ASA) and my piece de resistance four rolls of Kodak Black and White with a July 1930 Expiry date on it. I suspect the speed now is around 1 ASA. Bpth the Panatomic X and the 1930 film is part of a summer project to shoot. The faster the film, the more sensitive it is to aging.
Please post any results as we all want to see what it looks like!
 
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