6-bit code for Voigtlander 35/1,2?

[sg.eson]

I am about to permanently (mill and paint) the 6-bit code on a Voigtlander 35/1,2 Nokton. The lens will be used on a Leica M9. What is the best code? I do want to avoid the red edge problem completely, and also regarding vinjetting.

 

[Bill Blackwell]

You really have only one option:

Summilux-M 35mm f/1.4 ASPH (011101)

 

[sg.eson]

I ask because I read somewhere that this code can give more red-edge problems, and that using a Summicron 35 code works better...? Any experience? Non-Asph or Asph Summicron?

 

[scottwallick]

I ask because I read somewhere that this code can give more red-edge problems, and that using a Summicron 35 code works better...? Any experience? Non-Asph or Asph Summicron?

I haven't experienced any of the 'red edge' issues using the Nokton 35/1.2 ASPH. on the M9. See photos.

I use the code for the Summilux 35/1.4 ASPH. (Leica no. 11874) and sometimes use the lens uncoded. Uncoded I haven't noticed vignetting out of the normal nor any 'red edge'.

 

[sg.eson]

Thank You. I enjoyed Your photos!

 

[thompsonks]

I read the same thing you did, so mine is coded as a Summicron Asph. The chromatic aberration (red-green fringing), however, is pretty bad. So I'd go ahead & try the Summilux code.

Thank you for bringing this up & prompting me to try the other option. The milling falls on one of the screws, so I'm going to scratch out the paint & try the Lux Asph code.

I would worry only about avoiding the red-green fringing. Vignetting is easy to clean up in post-processing. CA is a bit harder to correct.

Kirk

 

[thompsonks]

OK, I changed the code. And a 1-shot test (pet silhouetted in window with some OOF leaves in background @ f1.2) leads to a tentative opinion that the Lux Asph code shows less red-green fringing than the Summicron code. But time & more shooting in low-light situations will tell.

And I beg Scott's pardon when he says "I haven't experienced any of the 'red edge' issues." Take a look at his shot with the stuffed bear in the background. The background is the sort of place where you'd expect fringing to occur, & it's there in full & obvious intensity.

I believe this is simply a problem with the lens, & the question is whether coding has anything at all to do with it. I don't offhand see how, but perhaps the Lux code makes it less prominent.

Kirk

 

[baycrest]

I've tried both the Lux & Cron and I ended up with the Cron version of coding of 011110. Its been a few years since I made the choice, so I can't remember why I preferred it.

Give it a try, if you don't like it you can always change it back.

For the screw which is in the middle of the coding, just paint it white or black as appropriate depending on the coding you end up with and it'll work fine.

 

[hon910]

Hi,

I am also trying to code this lens of mine, kind of new to this coding thing since I just got my M8.

Can someone tell me do I need to paint the white part as well or just leave it blank.
Well, what sort of white paint you use if we need to paint the white?

Thanks

 

[baycrest]

Hi,

I am also trying to code this lens of mine, kind of new to this coding thing since I just got my M8.

Can someone tell me do I need to paint the white part as well or just leave it blank.
Well, what sort of white paint you use if we need to paint the white?

Thanks

U only need to paint the well white, if there happens to be a screw head in the location where a 'white' well is required. Otherwise the screw head is read as a 'black' coding mark.

 

[Bill Blackwell]

... Can someone tell me do I need to paint the white part as well or just leave it blank. Well, what sort of white paint you use if we need to paint the white?

If you have the flange milled, use model paint (it comes in a small glass bottle) - you can find it at most model/hobby stores. The water-based variety (what I use) works fine too.

I recommend you paint the entire code, but it's the black marks that are important.

If you use the 'sharpie method' you'll need one of these:

http://www.popflash.com/index.php?p=product&id=4352

 

[baycrest]

$70? Try this first

$70? Try this first

If you have the flange milled, use model paint (it comes in a small glass bottle) - you can find it at most model/hobby stores. The water-based variety (what I use) works fine too.

I recommend you paint the entire code, but it's the black marks that are important.

If you use the 'sharpie method' you'll need one of these:

http://www.popflash.com/index.php?p=product&id=4352

I'd recommend trying this 1st b4 spending any money on coders...



Using paper templates is a real pain and waste of time .
I've tried it as well and wasted much time fiddling with paper and clear plastic templates with very poor results and then it dawned on me a more simple method which doesn't require a template at all.

1. With the lens removed from the camera body, mark the body's mount on the side of the grey ring where the 6 corresponding diodes line up.
2. Attached the lens that requires codiing and mark the side of the lens mount that lines up to the corresponding marks you just made in step 1.
3. Remove the lens and you can see the marks on the side of the lens mount. Simply now use your marker and "paint" the black lines that line up with the side of your mount onto the lens mount that faces the diodes. (As you know you only need to paint the "black" markings, the white ones are not necessary to paint)

Literally takes less than 2 minutes the first time and of course 10 seconds to "refresh" when it wears off, since you can still see where the old "black" marks off.