Voigtlander Nokton 50 1.5 II too modern?

Rikard

Established
Local time
1:19 AM
Joined
Jan 11, 2013
Messages
182
Location
Switzerland
Hi, I currently shoot with an Leica M6 and the Summicron-C 40mm f2 lens. I like this lens a lot for B&W, but I often find that It’s slightly too wide. I have been looking around for a compact 50 with 0.7m shortest focus distance. And the Voightlander Nokton vintage line 50mm f1.5 II seems to fit my needs pretty good.
I do like my prints to have quite a bit of grain and develop my tri-x in Rodinal as the Ralph Gibson fanboy I am. I’m about to order the Voigtlander but now I’m hesitant. What if my prints turns out to clinical and modern? Or do you guys think that I can get around this by adapting my development technique a bit? The summicrons I have seen on ebay are a bit too expensive I think.
 
Well, this is going to be very subjective. The place where one draws the line between a nice lens that is free of vices, rendering a good sharp image and it being "clinical" or cold is a very personal choice.

For black and white film I am okay with most lenses. I shoot the Nokton 35/1.5 which I believe is contemporary to the lens you are considering - and I like it especially for snapshots in the dark in difficult light or situations since one benefit of modern glass is that you don't have to worry about your composition as much as you do with vintage glass. More on that later.

The first consideration or question is that in my experience lenses being "clinical" matters a whole lot less for black and white film photography than it does for say color - especially slide film. It also seems to matter less the bigger you go in format size - I don't think I have ever seen a medium or large format lens that I would describe as clinical. So, are you planning to shoot color too? In that case the Nokton may get a bit hard, yes.

If you wet print, that is another layer of "clinicality" removed and I found that - maybe due to be being put through another lens in the process (the enlarger one) - I never found it to be a big issue for wet prints. I do however dislike (some modern) lenses that have extremely crunchy contrast as it will mean I will have to go down from my default filter grade when wet printing which gives me less room to maneuver.

There is also of course the fact that the more you stop a modern lens down the harder/more contrasty the image tends to get. I have used aforementioned Nokton during the day (for black and white - TMax400) and I liked the results okay enough. Would it be my first choice for bright daylight? Probably not. But it works well as an "don't worry about it" all-round lens.

I think you can see where this is going - if you are worried about the lens being clinical - are you willing to live with the trade-offs of vintage lenses? Do you want to shoot a lot at night or in dim light? In daylight (f8) unless it's a bad copy or the rare dog most vintage lenses tend to perform very well on film. But if you are near or at full aperture all bets are off. Highlights can flare out, there's coma, smeared corners, spherical aberrations field curvature etc etc.

Also not all of these vices are equal, some of these aberrations are more distasteful to me than others. So finding a lens that suits your style can take some experimentation. As for myself I bounced around between various Leica lenses, SLRs before finally landing on the (vintage) Zeiss Sonnar as my go-to, because at least to me - nothing comes even close in color rendering and the black and white is very nice as well.
 
In 50‘s land sky is the limit. You have a lot of choices (eg M39 with M adapter). Tessar type lenses should suit you fine (rendering and price?).
 
The 50mm f/1.5 II is a real gem. It's exceedingly small and capable. I think that it sits nicely between modern across-the-frame sharpness with vintage qualities to the oof rendering (though, it will be less structured than the 40 Summicron).

Pros (for me):
Very small with minimal finder blockage (even with hood attached)
(mostly) smoothly rendered specular highlights
swirl
sharp across-the-frame (especially at medium distances).

I guess, the question for you is - What do you define as the optical qualities you want from a lens? What about the 40 Summicron excites you?

I have the SC version of the 50/1.5 v2. Here are some examples:

Dad by Jim Fischer, on Flickr

Jenny by Jim Fischer, on Flickr

Selfie by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
 
Do you mean masochists version with thing focus ring and sharp cuts ?
First was LTM and after this one as VM.

It is awesome optically on bw film and bw digital. Not sterile at all, spot on focus WO. One of the best for bw I have tried.
Color on digital has purple fringing WO.
And it's hood self unscrews.
 
Thanks all for your input. And @Slumgullion, what a set of great pictures. @TenEleven a couple of days ago I was ready to order the Zeiss Sonnar. I do like the rendering of this one. But the MFD of 0.9 threw me off. The same is true for many vintage lenses where the MFD is even further back at 1m. One can always crop I suppose 🙂
 
Do you mean masochists version with thing focus ring and sharp cuts ?
First was LTM and after this one as VM.

It is awesome optically on bw film and bw digital. Not sterile at all, spot on focus WO. One of the best for bw I have tried.
Color on digital has purple fringing WO.
And it's hood self unscrews.
He's referring to the lens in the title of the thread...which is this:


Voigtlander calls it the Nokton 50mm F1.5 II...even though, it is the third iteration of the lens (produced by Cosina) for Leica cameras...which is somewhat confusing, but the first two versions are optically identical (for all intents and purposes). The lens that OP is asking about is optically different from the LTM and first M-Mount version (the one with the thin ring that you are referring to). The new lens is optically superior in every way that matter to me compared to the (beautifully-made) thin focus ring version. The new one is significantly smaller, more comfortable to use, has less distortion, is sharper across the frame, has a nicer (in my opinion) rendering and comes in two different coatings.
 
Any focus-shift encountered with the Sonnar so far?
I was quite worried about this issue when I ordered it. But reckoned I could always sell it without a loss if the issue would bother me. The seller told me it was optimised for 1.5. And after shooting a test roll this seems to be correct. I set up the camera on a tripod and put a lego base board at an angle below at MFD. I focused on the center knob of the board and varied the aperture.
I did shoot with film and maybe the results are different on digital. Regardless of aperture, the center knob remained in acceptable focus, but the field of focus did shift a bit of course.
My second test subject. I have a very lazy cat with an unwavering stare. Focus on the eyes is easy even at 1.5. And the fur makes it easy to see what is in focus. I got good results on all apertures.
One thing to note is that the lens is much softer at 1.5 than at 2.0. The difference between 2.0 and 2.8 is less noticeable. At 5.6 the lens seems super sharp all over the image.
But in real life, I tend to use lenses either at max aperture or stopped down to f8-11. So if there would have been any problems in between with focus shift I probably would not have seen it.
 
Back
Top Bottom