I've been using ADOX Borax MQ (with replenisher) which I mix myself. I got the idea from TomA, it's a D76 derivative, with slightly decreased suphite. It's great with my Kodak 70mm Surveillance film, which I similar to the old original Tri-X.
Yes it takes over a mnute to drain my 70mm Kindermann. Luckily mine is water tight.
ADOX Borax MQ, 70mm WL Kodak Surveuillance Film.
Kodak 70mm Surveillance Test ADOX Borax MQ by
Nokton48, on Flickr
Dan,
Looks great. My intent was to mix ADOX MQ as a one shot.
My JOBO 3013 can fit three 15 foot reels and I can use a Kodak hard rubber tank with lid as a light safe for the loaded reels. My intent is to pre- fill the JOBO with developer and in darkness drop in the reels as pouring six liters of developer is not practical. This JOBO loaded with three reels and six liters of developer will be a monster tank for inversion, but pretty much will be like developing 18 rolls of 120.
The water stop bath and the fixing can tolerate the long pour times I figure.
Know that I work in a research lab and I have access to HPLC grade chemically pure water (Just H2O) that measures 18 megaohm resistivity. I use this most chemically active water to mix my chemistry and for my stop bath. This water is so pure that it will erode living tissue so it is not safe to drink.
Plan "B" is my Slacker's Brew, meaning Diafine. I have four 3 1/2 gallon Kodak hard rubber dip and dunk tanks. One of these tanks has holes drilled for use as a wash tank, so I need just one more. My testing of Rollie 400S suggests 125 ISO for overcast, and 160 ISO for high contrast sun.
I used 4+4 in an inversion tank for my initial testing using Rollie 400S in 120 as short test rolls, but this time (one extra minute) is for denser negatives for wet printing and also because I only invert twice a minute instead of the recommended three (basically I slightly underdevelope due to lower aggitation). I'm not sure yet of the time and aggitation using dip and dunk, but it seems like doing one reel at a time is like 6 rolls of 120 in a monster inversion tank.
Plan C is Rollie 400S in Rodinal, but initial tests suggest only 80 ISO. I use 50:1 dillution, and I would use the three reel JOBO 3013 as an inversion tank.
The Diafine gets reused and also gets better with use (increased mids) as it gets "seasoned." The ADOX MQ is cheap enough for me to use as a one shot, but there is a replenisher if you want to be mucho cheap. Rodinal, especially muy diluted is a cheap one shot.
BTW I like all these developers and the negatives made. The ADOX in Dan's negatives have a punchy tonality. The Diafine negatives I make are like HDR film with smooth roll off in the highlights, enhanced shadow detail, with a vast midrange of a larger format.
Pretty much the time and aggitation is what I use to dial in the mids because the enhanced shadow detail and the smooth fluffy rolloff in the highlights is what Diafine organically produces. Understand that the highlights kinda are like in stand development because the Part "A" gets exhausted. Diafine provides a profound compensating effect. When in doubt overexpose.
Rodinal 50:1 also has a compensating effect. Rollie 400S is really not a 400 ISO film (they lied) and Rodinal with slow speed films is kinda wonderful. You loose some film speed. Oh-well.
Know that I make negatives that are for wet printing so I like some density.
OFF TOPIC: I just secured a 6x9 Super Rolliex (120) that will fit my baby Linhof's. I also have a 6x7 Super rolliex (120); a 645 CINE for over 120 exposures (70mm); and a 6x7 CINE for 60 exposures (70mm).
This is too cool. With only two lenses I get many different FOV's by changing formats. I can also do sheet film: 2 1/4 X3 1/4 using Graphmatics; and 6.5x9 using Linhof double sided holders.
Cal