70mm Film FUN up ahead

Nokton48 said:
Michael,

I'm Nokton48, not Nokton24. And I am NOT Trevor Allin, he is over at the Kiev forum. Over on the Kiev forum I am HASSYDAN.

That 3D design is not mine. As mentioned above ^^, you can use an old Efke 25 35mm film can bottom, and cut the bottom part off of it. It will tightly hold the JOBO 2502 reel column together. Them simply carefully glue it together. I have no need for anything from Holgamod.

SEE the Efke 25 film can holding the reel together? No cost at all!

70mm 2502 Jobo Reel by Nokton48, on Flickr

Jobo 2502 70mm Reel Modification by Nokton48, on Flickr
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Can you pls explain what and how you had stick together the left/bottom end of the reels?
 
Nokton48 said:
70mm tri-x unperfed by Nokton48, on Flickr

Unperfed Tri-x 70mm, this was in date when I put it in the freezer. This will go in my Graflex RH50, or my Beatty Coleman 70mm Transet back.
Or when modified with the "rubber wheel" it will go in my Hasselblad A70s.

I'm going to load 20 6x7cm exposures in my Graflex RH50 to get started. This way I can process that roll on a JOBO reel, along with a load of 35mm Eastman XX 5222.
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i could load 172cm of 70mm film in official Jobo 2517 reel. in 220-jobo 175cm, am i right? I used testtank 2820(for max 10 x20cm prints. Jobo 2500-special 70mm reelcombo will work, is watertight. didnt develop with the solution 2500.
 
Calzone said:
I just secured/won on EBAY the 70mm bulk loader that is depicted in the Linhof literature. This loader best seves me because I own two Nikor 15 foot reels and this loader will allow helping me spool film on a development reel as well as spool cassettes.

I am so pleased that Kodak hard rubber tanks will be modular for 8x10 and my Nikor rack of 135/120/220 reels, as well as my three 70mm fifteen footers.

Cal
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its a kindermann. must check if its equivalent to the one Linhof has made. but have no access to the litterature a the moment. maybe i will find the bulkloader, made for both 126 and 70mm.
 
Nokton48 said:
Hi There Kai-San,

The NDT reels are rather large, I just measured across one of them. They are 6 3/8" in diameter, and 3 1/4" in height. You will need a really large print drum to hold it. But it is doable.

Here is a 70mm NDT reel, on the left is a SS 120 reel for comparison, and on the right, a JOBO 120/220 reel.

NDT Reel vs 120 reel size comparison by Nokton48, on Flickr


It's also possible to make something out of stainless steel. See photo above left:

OMG OMG OMG!!! Look what Dad got me as a gift!!!! Nikor 70mm developing tank!!! These things are IMPOSSIBLE to find!!! #70mm #ilovefim #ishootfilm #mediumformat #nikor #film #family #dad #developing #winning #work #chemistry #116 #616 #yes by Stone, on Flickr

Europanorama (Micheal) made this 70mm daylight tank by cutting down a 20x24 Chromega Print drum. He says he has used it for years and it works great. As I recall I think he uses this with a JOBO 70mm reel. Now THOSE are really hard to find.

Homemade 70mm tank by Nokton48, on Flickr


Also JOBO makes the #3063 20x24 print drum and that can be cut down, and should also work. An inversion cap is available for that one.
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I-europanorama-not EUROPANORAMA.. didnt make any tank.....but there are messages outside this forum of others having done.
 
Kai-san said:
Jobo has a foot pump for this purpose, but it probably costs more than 7 dollars. :p
Talking about pumps, I've seen that the Mamiya back can be supplied with a suction bulb to create a vacuum inside, does anybody know the purpose of this? Contax made some cameras with vacuum backs to keep the film flat, but I do not know if this is the case here.
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Contax did make ONE camera with vaccum. RTS III. i had one and killed it during first filmloading. had to be repaired. never pull film out of the III!gear will be damaged. SOLD it. but will buy again one day. has built-in flashmeter also as only SRL.
 
Nokton48 said:
It sucks the film down really flat. I would get one if I were you. When doing aerial photography I think the film gets drawn outwards when you put the camera out the plane window. The pump helps with that.

Europanorama knows about this one
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This is the problem with Hasselblad A12, maybe other 120/220-backs:
When film is loaded on the ground, darkslide-slit must be covered with tape, otherwise terrible unsharp zones. Wheather conditions were normal. and not very high during shooting from a winged-airplane. good i didnt mess another shooting where window couldnt be opened enough. i used 35mm Contax then and also not Mamiya Press. slit was simply too narrow.
I only was informed about that by Hasselblad Goeteborg AFTER i sold my HB ELX-60mm-kit in favor of a Contax RTS III-body.
would do the same with 70mm-back A70-taping darkslide-slit. dont have body yet again.
 
europanorama said:
Contax did make ONE camera with vaccum. RTS III. i had one and killed it during first filmloading. had to be repaired. never pull film out of the III!gear will be damaged. SOLD it. but will buy again one day. has built-in flashmeter also as only SRL.
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The Contax 645 also has vacuum backs (but no 70mm back). My RTSIII still works. Amazing viewfinder apart from the blue LED readout which is hard to see in bright light. I tested it but never found the vacuum back made any difference in that 135 camera, but it really helped with 220 film in the 645.

Marty
 
Nokton48 said:
Wjlapier,

I chose glassine pages, I used to use Hasselblad and Paterson Glassine pages so I thought I would try these. You could also choose vinyl, like the VueAll and Printfile 70mm pages. Acetate also available, those are for transparencies, really.

These are oversize 120 pages; the overall page dimension is 10 1/4" x 12 3/16".
The 70mm film fits with plenty of room to spare; the individual strip openings are 2 14/16" x 9 7/16". I can fit three of four 6x6cm strips in these pages. These pages are big enough to accommodate 6x7cm, and even 6x9cm, I believe.

Glad I found these with Jakes help.
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i am using acetate sleeves for my 6x12 -widelux 1500 negatives. they will stay inside for contact-printing. only must take care with cutting where and how much. will show one day.
 
wjlapier said:
Nice!

I need to find another way to use reels and a tank. The Patterson reels seize up when I load the film ( something to do with the bearing I'm sure )--again, I wonder how 220 can be loaded in these reels. Maybe I'll have to buy a Nikor reel and tank and learn how to load SS reels. I ruined a few photos since the film wasn't loaded properly on the Patterson reel.

BTW, awesome to acquire the Trix400 in 70mm. I'm about to buy two more spools of the Rollei 400 and stop there for a while--lol.

Stupidly, I looked at a Hasselblad again. While I can carry my RB67 around just fine I'm wondering about a smaller lighter solution. I thought about the Mamiya Universal with the Graflok back adapter for the Mamiya 70mm back. I have the Universal and the back fits but it's hard to see the viewfinder with that big back sticking out. I'll probably stick with the RB for a while--the glass is so good.

Even more stupidly, I've been looking at Linhofs! :bang:

Anyway, I'm having fun and to me that's what it's all about.
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there is a special loupe for 70mm-back-use if i dont err for the press. must dig out my prospectus, now not accessible.
 
wjlapier said:
If you guys don't mind, could you share your workflow from exposed film to your scan? Do you have a darkroom or do you use a bag like me?

Myself, I take the exposed film and do all the transfer from spool to reels in a changing bag. Same bag for years. I use Patterson reels--there is a photo somewhere in this thread that shows two different ways to use the Patterson reels. I use this one:



The way I have the reels set up it's almost using the whole reel tube so I use ~700ml of chems. So far, I'm pretty happy with this workflow.

I'm looking to get a slitter or make my own to cut down some of my Portra 400 to 120.

Scans are done on a Epson V500 using a modded 35mm film holder--that was a great mod idea from Dan I believe. Vuescan to finish the scan and PS to resize and sharpen as needed.
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get the slitter from Fred at xkaes at aol dot com. mentioned 1 mio times everywhere. made in china world exclusive by Fred. cheap. google. any size can be made. e.g. i have two versions for perforated 70mm. one is cutting on both sides centered, leading to cut perforations, not good for machines. one is one side-cutting leaving one perforation-side untouched.
Holgamods Randy was thinking about a slitter-system. we only must convince him to start with 70mm. he had 61.5mm in mind. a core to spool-system would be worthwhile then.
 
gorbas said:
Hi Guys, finally I had some free time to try Maco Ort25c slitted from 70mm to 120. I exposed it in Rolleiflex 3.5F at 12iso and processed in Rodinal 1:100 at 20C, 8min with 2 tank rotation per minute. My first test was at 10min and it was too much. Next one will be more like 7min. I used incident light measurement. Scanned with Nikon 8000. Absolutely minimal corrections in LR.
There are many speculations of origin of this film on Internet, like: EFKE R14, FilmoTec aka ORWO NP-15 or Agfa Gevaert. But who knows? Prewash water was deep blue/purple similar to old ORWO NP15 if i remember correctly. Glossy side of negative is more eggshell shine and film is curly and springy.
So far I'm happy with this results. Less development and maybe 10iso will do magic. Interestingly it render blue skies quite well, way better than I expected from ORTHO emulsion.
Dan told me that is still availabile in 70mm unperforated version directly from Maco. Also it's nice to be rolled to 616 or 116 format if you have backing paper and rolls.
Link to the pictures is:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/26983280@N00/?
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last ortho i used was from Agfa. decades ago.
 
Kai-san said:
I have been shopping around for a few 70mm accessories lately, it takes a bit of patience to find these things. First I came across 14 Kodak 70mm film cassettes for 105 Euros, that's 7,5 Euros a piece. I've been paying more than the double for those earlier.
And then a Watson 70mm bulk film loader turned up on ebay. That one did cost quite a bit more, but I managed to secure it. It's got film in it, the label on the outside says Ektachrome 200 Professional. The seller did not know what was in it, so I will cut off a bit and develop it in Rodinal 1:100. But if it's slide film I suppose I will get nothing?
I have tried to find a user manual for the Watson, but no luck so far. There are two counters, one says 'wooden core', the other is named 'metal core'. I assume one is for the bulk roll and the other for the cassette? Both counters go from 0 to 6, a bit confusing. I'd be happy if anyone here could help me out.
med_U73354I1526493859.SEQ.0.jpg
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pls show then i can compare with my Alden. depending the core one must use the tube. i have only a metallic one.but cannot tell by heart. its easy finding out. when the spool is wobbling there is action needed...
 
europanorama said:
you mean the 5m-developping-system? i have listed it somewhere else. has a loader. i have it complete, not yet used. it uses 1lt chemistry.
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Michael,

A RFF'er PM'ed me. I have some links that show the item.

If I didn't have my JOBO 3013 and three 15 foot reels I would buy it. The JOBO's don't seem to leak.

I would still pre-fill and use a light safe for the loaded reel. Two liters is a long pour time.

Cal
 
europanorama said:
where to get that foam? on one its gone. i have both versions. if with
XL-frame just remove it to get 4x5, am i right?
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Micheal,

Ebay has the adhesive foam, used to position the cassettes. Get the right thickness of foam. To change the back from Graflex XL to 4x5 Graphmatic, simply remove the four XL frame screws, remove/clean off the light seal/gasket, and paint (touch up) with black Spray Krylon (with a small brush). Very very easy to do.

-Dan (Hassydan)

Graflex 70mm Interior Foam Restoration by Nokton48, on Flickr

Graflex 70mm Back Interior Foam Restoration. Everybody should have one or two of these. Runs unperfed 70mm!
 
europanorama said:
get the slitter from Fred at xkaes at aol dot com. mentioned 1 mio times everywhere. made in china world exclusive by Fred. cheap. google. any size can be made. e.g. i have two versions for perforated 70mm. one is cutting on both sides centered, leading to cut perforations, not good for machines. one is one side-cutting leaving one perforation-side untouched.
Holgamods Randy was thinking about a slitter-system. we only must convince him to start with 70mm. he had 61.5mm in mind. a core to spool-system would be worthwhile then.
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Fred sells these on Ebay. I have one that cuts 35mm down to 16mm Minolta. Didn't know he made 70mm models; Maybe I should get one.

I have 120 rolls that are slitted-down 70mm Kodak High Speed Infared, and also 70mm Kodak Plus-X Aerographic 2402. Two beautiful films.
 
gorbas said:
I just run my first test of 35mm Maco Eagle AQS (expired on 03/2014) film in Rodinal 1:50. That film is really 50-100ei at most! Very low base fog! Not sure how this emulsion relate to current 70mm Rollei 400, but somebody in Maco was super optimistic.
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I'd expect the effective speed to be a little lower with Rodinal, but not that much slower! But I think I would try it in DDX or TMax and see if that doesn't pep it up a bit!
 
Nokton48 said:
Fred sells these on Ebay. I have one that cuts 35mm down to 16mm Minolta. Didn't know he made 70mm models; Maybe I should get one.

I have 120 rolls that are slitted-down 70mm Kodak High Speed Infared, and also 70mm Kodak Plus-X Aerographic 2402. Two beautiful films.
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I have the 70mm>120 slitter with the two blades. Prelim test the cutting is easy. I don't have a darkroom so we'll see how it goes in the changing bag. I have plenty of 120 paper just need to get started on rolling some.
 
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