7s Rangefinder Calibration

Will

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Hi Guys,

Got my hands on a 7s with a 50mm f/0.95.

Adjusted the horizontal alignment (benchmarked at the infinity position). It matches with a adjusted M2. Haven't touch the vertical alignment yet (off a bit), since I couldn't obtain the pin-wrench.

Would like to ask: is it enough to foucs at f/0.95?
 
The vertical alignment affects the horizontal alignment. It is best to set the vertical first. I use a set of stiff tweezers to get the cover off to make the vertical alignment.

The 50mm F0.95 does not leave much room for error. DOF at close-focus is pretty narrow, ~0.5". My Canon 7 from Karen Nakamura worked perfectly with the subsequently bought 50mm F0.95 on the first try. The second Canon 7 I fine tuned.


2nd shot with the dream-lens:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2891&cat=3204&page=1
 
Will said:
Got my hands on a 7s with a 50mm f/0.95.

Congratulations, and welcome to a fairly exclusive club!

Adjusted the horizontal alignment (benchmarked at the infinity position). It matches with a adjusted M2. Haven't touch the vertical alignment yet (off a bit), since I couldn't obtain the pin-wrench.

It's pretty easy to make one. Get a cheap jeweler's screwdriver with a blade as wide as the spacing between the two holes. Then put a ball-shaped grindng stone on a handheld motor tool and grind out a space in the middle to form two pins that match the holes. (If you don't own a good motor tool such as a Dremel, you can buy a nasty-but-usable one at Harbor Freight Tool for $10-15. Wear eye protection while grinding!!!)

Would like to ask: is it enough to focus at f/0.95?

Yes. The 7-series was, in effect, designed around the 50/0.95 lens. If the RF is adjusted correctly and you're careful, you'll be able to focus it accurately.

This is only a crude rule of thumb, and I'm sure someone will post to take issue with it, but I believe that in general, the amount of RF accuracy required is roughly proportional to the lens' numerical aperture (actual diameter of the hole in the middle of the lens.) A 50mm f/1 has exactly the same numerical aperture as a 100mm f/2, for example, so an RF that can handle one should be able to handle the other.

An 85/1.5 actually has a larger numerical aperture than either of those, and consequently demands more RF accuracy; I believe that would have been the most demanding lens in Canon's RF-focused lineup. Now you know why Canon put that magnifier position on its older RF cameras with switchable-magnification finders! I'm guessing that they would have spec'ed the 7-series RF to focus any lens they made, so I assume it can handle the 85/1.5 as well; I've never had any trouble with mine, at any rate, but then again I've never checked super-closely at its 1-meter minimum focus distance. Something to do next rainy day...
 
JLW: If the vertical alignment is off, how much is the horizontal alignment affected? Will it be accurate over the whole range, or will it be accurate at some point and then "drift off"? I had that problem with a different camera. The vertical was out, I could adjust for distance at one end, but it would be off on the other. It Did Not settle down until both were accurate.
 
Adjusting the vertical alignment on the 7 and 7s in principle shouldn't affect the horizontal alignment. Yeah, in practice it usually does, but that's just because the adjuster is kind of touchy.

What's going on inside:

-- Horizontal: This adjusts by a screw that bears on the horizontal arm that carries the rangefinder mirror, same as on older Canons.

-- Vertical: The rangefinder mirror sits on a little stainless-steel spring. Turning the adjuster jacks this spring up and down, changing the mirror's vertical alignment. The adjustment is touchy because you only need to move it a VERY small amount, and because it jiggles on the spring as you adjust it. That jiggling can change the "set" of the mirror enough to vary its horizontal alignment somewhat. On the other hand, sometimes you can make an adjustment to it without changing the horizontal alignment at all.

Once adjusted, it should stay adjusted throughout the entire focus range, because the whole business -- mirror, spring, jack screw -- is rotated by the lateral arm, so all the parts stay in the same relationship as you focus.

Note, if you are lucky enough to own a 7sZ, that its vertical position adjuster is NOT the same! I don't own a 7sZ :-( and have only seen pictures of the innards of one (thank you, Peter) but it appears from those that the 7sZ uses a different type of vertical adjuster -- a cylindrical prism located transversely in the light path, pretty much like what you'll find in a Nikon S2.

With this type of adjuster, turning the prism moves the image in a circle, so adjusting the vertical alignment definitely WILL affect the horizontal alignment. The advantage is that it's much less touchy to adjust, and doesn't jiggle as you're trying to adjust it.
 
oooch...

Got my shutter jammed last night(rewind after pressing the shutter when it was locked by the shutter lock).

Was hoping to adjust the camera myself, but will send for repair & general CLA.

Anyone use a non-canon hood for the 0.95?
 
By shutter jam, you mean the curtains will no longer release or do you mean the button can't be pressed? If the top plate is not perfectly seated, the "A-R" ring will not turn and the button will not fire.

I had the shutter lock up on my Canon 7 and sent to Essex for repair.

I do not think the the series of operations that you performed caused the problem. More likely the lubricants gave out; to be expected for a 40 year old camera. Anyway, my CLA'd Canon 7 came back good as ever, and is my main Canon user.
 
Will said:
Anyone use a non-canon hood for the 0.95?

You can't use much of a hood -- the lens already blocks so much of the finder that you can't afford to block much more!

What I did was to get a screw-in rubber hood, which consists of a metal ring with the filter threads and a rubber part that slips over it and seats in a groove. I pulled the rubber part off, leaving only the metal ring, and I use this as a hood. It only adds about 1/2 inch of shading to the front of the lens -- but I figure that's better than nothing, and it doesn't add much to the finder blockage.
 
Brian Sweeney said:
By shutter jam, you mean the curtains will no longer release or do you mean the button can't be pressed? If the top plate is not perfectly seated, the "A-R" ring will not turn and the button will not fire.

I had the shutter lock up on my Canon 7 and sent to Essex for repair.

I do not think the the series of operations that you performed caused the problem. More likely the lubricants gave out; to be expected for a 40 year old camera. Anyway, my CLA'd Canon 7 came back good as ever, and is my main Canon user.

Advanced and pressed the shutter but it didn't fire since it was in the lock position, then I advanced (again) right after that. Taking the 7s for repair in Hong Kong this weekend...

This is my family tradition, dad done that to my M2.... 😡

Someone was trying to sell me the 0.95 hood, $50USD, heavy marks of use but still round...

I agree on "anything is better than nothing".
 
Got my first roll back (before Calibration)

compare the DOF between f/0.95 & f/1.4, the one extra stop makes a differences. Wait till the shutter is fixed and the rangefinder calibrated...

Then will try a roll of BW400...
 
Will said:
Someone was trying to sell me the 0.95 hood, $50USD, heavy marks of use but still round...

Fifty bucks for the Canon hood isn't bad, unless it's just impossibly rough. I'll bet s/he could sell it here for that...
 
That hood is rare. I'm happy to have the original Canon cap and ever-ready case for mine. Agree, grab it for $50.
 
Wouldn't call it impossibly rough, maybe 70% of the print is still on. Just a bad first impression when I first saw it, will check it out again maybe in 2 weeks. The hood is in Hong Kong, if Fedax to the US, maybe another $30 USD.

How come I am not seeing any aftermarket hoods (like those beautiful one made for the Nikon 50mm f/1.1, @ cameraquest, also Yahoo Japan Auction)?

Anyone want to take the matter into their own hands (DIY)?
 
Sent the camera for the repair. :bang:

The repairman released the shutter on the spot, stupid me...

Adjusting the RF & having the foams change as well for $30 USD ($250 HKD), the guy is much considered as expensive in Hong Kong...
 
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