A 28 for a Nikon F3

[dasuess]

The 28/F3.5 non-AI can be had for dirt cheap. I got mine recently for $59 and then had it cut to AI for my Df. Corners not so good wide open, but not bad stopped down. A great daylight lens, but need to be careful with a filter/hood combo 'cos it will most likely vignette.

 

[Travis L.]

Look no further than the 28 AIS 2.8. Straight lines, sharp wide open and just use it at 2.8, f4. F5.6 and at a push f8. I used extensively on my F3 and now on my F6.

Agreed Nikkor 28 2.8 AIS is my favorite lens of all time in any mount.
It's great at all apertures and focuses very close.

 

[Highway 61]

The 28/F3.5 non-AI can be had for dirt cheap. I got mine recently for $59 and then had it cut to AI for my Df. Corners not so good wide open, but not bad stopped down. A great daylight lens, but need to be careful with a filter/hood combo 'cos it will most likely vignette.

Clearly the 28/3.5 is a really bad lens with very poor edges and corners resolution at apertures larger than f/11, much distortion and very visible vignetting until f/8 : for about $30 more you would have found a 28/2.8 AI which has basically nothing to envy to the f/2.8 AI-S or the f/2.0 AI/AI-S.

 

[jonmanjiro]

The 28/2.8 AI-S is so-so as for its innards mechanics (polycarbonate barrel, CRC unit made of cheap white metal) and as a result most of them suffer from wobble and play to a point which may cause blurry images because the body aperture preselection fork will make the wobbly lens optical unit vibrate when the shutter is triggered (too bad given what the lens offers optically wise). If you get one with some internal wobble and play (very fairly common), have it serviced prior using it so that it comes back tight all around with a firm focusing action and no rattling noise when you gently shake it.

I have first hand experience with this! I have an Ai-S 28mm f2.8 with a 90xxxx serial number (current s/n range started in 2006) that suddenly started taking randomly blurry photos one day. After some experimenting I tracked the problem down to being caused by loose internal elements. When I shook the lens I could here the elements rattling around in there. Nikon has been making this lens for so long you'd think they would have ironed out such problems by now but alas not.

 

[semi-ambivalent]

I have first hand experience with this! I have an Ai-S 28mm f2.8 with a 90xxxx serial number (current s/n range started in 2006) that suddenly started taking randomly blurry photos one day. After some experimenting I tracked the problem down to being caused by loose internal elements. When I shook the lens I could here the elements rattling around in there. Nikon has been making this lens for so long you'd think they would have ironed out such problems by now but alas not.

I have a mint 28 f/2 Ai-S right now with a loose front element/group. I think the CRC is handled in the front rather than with a rear group. I can move the element with my finger. I use a 28 Elmarit ASPH these days but thought I'd mention it. No particular lens is immune.

s-a