A beginer's trilema - Kiev, FED or a Zorki

Let's see how a FED 2 with an Industar 26m does. And a Jupiter 12. I'm thinking yellow filter and HP5 or FP4.

(smile) I was out shooting today with a FED2 and my Industar 26m. Yellow filter too. Only with a roll of Kentmere 100, not HP5 or FP4.

Steve
 
FED-2 and I-26M it is probably one million copies were made...

FED-2, I-26M, HP5+ and yellow-green filter. :) - :D

 
I was lucky, when my Contax II (1936) failed I sent it off and prepared for the worst and the technician rang me to say that both ribbons had failed (a weak spot) and it was very badly worn but he had one or two Kiev shutter cradles (?) and so could replace it all as they were identical. And he did and I have a working Contax II again.


You have one bad technician. Contax (and Kiev) shutters can only be serviced and restored by dedicated specialist. (I recommend the ones in Germany)
Replacing the entire shutter is never the right solution.
The shutter does not fit right. Bolts and threads and their position are all different in the Kiev.
 
You have one bad technician. Contax (and Kiev) shutters can only be serviced and restored by dedicated specialist. (I recommend the ones in Germany)
Replacing the entire shutter is never the right solution.
The shutter does not fit right. Bolts and threads and their position are all different in the Kiev.

I have been sending cameras and lenses to that firm for years and years and many people on RFF seem to like them and recommend them.

Also the Contax was working a few weeks ago when I took it out for a spin...

Early Kiev cameras seem identical to Contax II's according to a lot of people. And many early ones are part Contax and part Kiev parts.

Regards, David
 
The early Kievs are very well made and capable cameras. I have a very nice 1949 one with a collapsible ZK f2 lens, which is equal to the prewar Contaxes, and has considerably better chrome plating than Zeiss used. But I almost never use it, which is also the case with the couple of Contaxes I own. I wear glasses, and it's just not possible to see the whole frame without damaging the lenses, and in general the cameras are just too fiddly. If I'm actually using one of my FSU cameras to take pictures I care about it will almost always be a Zorki 6 or FED-2, given their excellent range/viewfinders and generally good handling. The FED 2 is probably the only FED I would ever be serious about if I were you, although the prewar ones seem to have been quite well made, and fun to use.

Cheers,
Dez
Dez
 
It's not Leica photography, but rangefinder photography.
Now that I own Leicas, I don't really find much interest in the LTM Russian cameras. I'd rather use my DAG overhauled IIIG than a Zorki-1. Only because I know that the Leica IIIG I have is absolutely reliable and accurate.
Same with my Leotax S, and Canon 7s, Bessa R.
Don won't deal with repairing Soviet era cameras - I've already asked him.

However, I am curious about this whole Contax experience. The Kiev may be a good way to scratch that itch without the vastly greater expense of finding a good condition Contax color dial camera, then waiting years to have Henry Scherer overhaul it. If I then find out that I don't like it, then I wouldn't have put tons of money into it with a Kiev.

Robert,
If you want a Contax experience, and the best Contax, get yourself a II—they're still not that expensive, although I think that will have to change. Except for flash ability they are technically superior in every way that matters to the IIa. There are other people who can make them run well apart from HS. They are actually not as bad to work on as many people would have you believe—even some in this thread. I got one of the tidiest bodies I've ever seen for under $100 US and that was within the last two years. Yes, they need ribbons every few decades. So what? It's still less hassle than replacing a set of cloth shutter curtains.
Cheers
Brett
 
Zorki 6 users: thoughts? Comments?

Quoted from this thread
http://rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2662579#post2662579

Zorki-6 for:
Most usable viewfinder (brightness and eye-relief), long rangefinder base, hinged back, not-easy-to-touch-by-accident shutter speed dial, quick double-pump-possible advance lever, T exposure lock, and compactness.

Kiev-4a for:
Metal shutter curtains, low temperature friendly shutter mechanism, long rangefinder base, click-stopped standard lenses, T exposure lock, slow shutter speeds.

Zorki-1 for:
Compactness with collapsible lenses.
 
Zorki 6 users: thoughts? Comments?

Soviet tractor. Loud and crude shutter, from masochist release "button" with sharp edges and down to the guts it is crude as well (too strong leaf spring at the bottom). Film advance is crude (it was weak in 5, so they made 6 advance crude) and slow, you don't feel if film is ended or not. FED-2 with larger advance wheel is smooth and faster (single index finger stroke).
Z-6 only looks nice, but once you start to operate it... somehow instead of sharp shutter release "button" you will press film rewind button, it also fires shutter in this tractor. :D
 
Soviet tractor. Loud and crude shutter, from masochist release "button" with sharp edges and down to the guts it is crude as well (too strong leaf spring at the bottom). Film advance is crude (it was weak in 5, so they made 6 advance crude) and slow, you don't feel if film is ended or not. FED-2 with larger advance wheel is smooth and faster (single index finger stroke).
Z-6 only looks nice, but once you start to operate it... somehow instead of sharp shutter release "button" you will press film rewind button, it also fires shutter in this tractor. :D

As I've posted before, the guts inside Zorki-6 looks more refined than FED-2 and 3. I've opened all three cameras to do cleaning. Again I'm not an engineer, but you don't need to be a cook to tell if the food is good.

I can feel if the film is end with no problem with Zorki-6's advance lever. I honestly think it's faster to advance film on Zorki-6 than any of the knob model if you do a double-pump (even than your "one finger around the knob trick":)). It is a safe and legit way of advancing film.

The "sharp", or jagged release button was copied from Contax II/KIEV, with the extra friction you are able turn the shutter button while it is pressed down and lock the shutter to T exposure when using B speed. I find it a smart and useful design, for both long time exposure and lens/RF focusing calibration. Plus you can really put a soft release to save the finger if it is really that sharp.

Regarding spring tension and other misc. things, I think you got a very bad or seriously under-serviced sample of Zorki-6. I own one and had two, both are nice and smooth. For everyday shooting, I'd pick Z-6 over FED-2 without hesitation, for the sake of the bright finder alone.
 
I have a Zorki-6. It's OK. Among FSU, its got a lot going for it. Mine has the slightly coarse film advance, but that seems normal...I just wish it was super smooth like some other cameras I have.

Don't wind and fire the shutter without a lens on it. Or if you do, push the RF cam a little ways into the body when firing the shutter. I can't remember exactly what happens, but the RF cam is in the way of some turning/moving part and gets whacked. Its subtle, but can knock RF adjustment out.

I would use my Z-6 more often if I didn't have so many other interesting cameras around. So, its definitely a good camera for using to take good photographs. Even if it does have some Soviet tractor in it :D
 
Don't wind and fire the shutter without a lens on it. Or if you do, push the RF cam a little ways into the body when firing the shutter. I can't remember exactly what happens, but the RF cam is in the way of some turning/moving part and gets whacked. Its subtle, but can knock RF adjustment out.

That's a problem only on Zorki-5. They've fixed it on Zorki-6.
 
That's a problem only on Zorki-5. They've fixed it on Zorki-6.

I had read that too somewhere, but one day when I had the lens off my Z-6, I did a few wind-clicks and I just happened to have my finger over the RF cam. The cam jumped into my finger when when the shutter fired.

It was a while ago... all I can remember is I investigated further and found out why that was happening, but I can't remember what exactly it was. But, to get around it, whenever I fired the shutter with the lens off, I just held the RF cam down a little into the body -- just as it would be if a lens were mounted.

I don't have a Zorki-5 to see if it has the same "feature". I do have a Fed-5 -- one ugly camera. :p
 
While I'm here, I also do the double pump winding with the Z-6 (just as nukecoke mentinoed). Even though the mechanism feels a little coarse, it works fine. Might just be a tactile thing. Kind of like the steel gears in the M6 vs. the brass gears in the M3. You can actually feel the difference. Weird.
 
As I've posted before, the guts inside Zorki-6 looks more refined than FED-2 and 3. I've opened all three cameras to do cleaning. Again I'm not an engineer, but you don't need to be a cook to tell if the food is good.

I can feel if the film is end with no problem with Zorki-6's advance lever. I honestly think it's faster to advance film on Zorki-6 than any of the knob model if you do a double-pump (even than your "one finger around the knob trick":)). It is a safe and legit way of advancing film.

The "sharp", or jagged release button was copied from Contax II/KIEV, with the extra friction you are able turn the shutter button while it is pressed down and lock the shutter to T exposure when using B speed. I find it a smart and useful design, for both long time exposure and lens/RF focusing calibration. Plus you can really put a soft release to save the finger if it is really that sharp.

Regarding spring tension and other misc. things, I think you got a very bad or seriously under-serviced sample of Zorki-6. I own one and had two, both are nice and smooth. For everyday shooting, I'd pick Z-6 over FED-2 without hesitation, for the sake of the bright finder alone.

We have this talk over with person who repairs FSU camera in Ukraine/Russia. For money and for many years. He was agree with what I'm saying. Yes, it looks fancy inside, but it is crude. He prefers Z-5 as less crude camera. But he knows how to fix it and has spare parts. And I opened Z-6 as well, it is the soviet tractor. FED-2 is next to plow. Easier to service. And smooth.

By the time you'll finish you first double stoke on Z-6, I'll already have image taken with FED-2. Some day I'll put video on you-tube to show how fast film advance on SERVICED FED-2 with larger knob is.

I do like dimmed FED-2 VF. I'm the one who needs to wear sunglasses during the day and I'm perfectly fine with FED-2 VF indoors without glasses.
 
IMO, People are buying FSU often because they are influenced by FSU. This way or another.

I don't think here is as much services for IIa/IIIa as for M2/M3. Market does reflect it with cheap, dead Contax bodies with famous Zeiss bumps on the back. IIa not working for under 200$ is common on ebay. IIIa isn't much different if not less for camera which needs CLA forty years "already", somewhere...

M2/M3, first you have to find them in dead condition, because most of them are looked after and they are in fact more expensive than IIa/IIIa.
IIa/IIIa have basically two lenses with as primitive as in FSU viewfinder. 50/2 and 50 1.5. The faster one is notorious for optic problems. Both costs significantly less than Leitz 50/2, 50 1.4. Even same optics "quality" Leitz 50 1.5 costs more.
I agree with much of what you say, but I have a slightly different spin on some of the details. There is no doubt the Contax system is lower priced than the vintage Leica system in an overall sense. However, when in good condition, Contax camera and lens prices can approach that of the Leica system of the time. The quality of both systems is to me inspiring, and although Leica had certain advantages of course such as finders, some would say Zeiss optics were superior (i am not sure myself, but I believe in some instances such a case could be made).

I think there are two main reasons for the value difference that are unrelated to quality. One is that Contax production was quite high as far as camera bodies and their more common lenses (such as the 50mm f2 Sonnar). Another, and I think more important, is that Zeiss did not maintain historical continuity into the modern era as did Leica with their rangefinder system. There were of course geopolitical reasons for this, market reasons, and certainly other economic factors, but this eventually became a significant advantage to Leitz. It was an advantage that was probably unforeseen at the time.

As regards to the 50mm F1.5 Sonnar, I'm not sure what "notorious" optical problems you are referring to. It is an amazing lens performance-wise, and many are still in around in good condition. It is a gem of optical engineering on a par in all respects with the Summicron of its time. In fact, in my experience, they have held up over the years better than the early Summicron's which are commonly hazed and scratched up to the point of inoperability. In good condition, the 50mm f1.5 Opton is also hardly inexpensive these days - they run around $300 now - cheaper than a Cron yes, but still expensive (at least to me!). The Zeiss Opton Biogon 3.5cm F2.8 is a remarkable lens as well, and really a quite a bargain for its price these days ($300-$450 or so). Other more desirable, but less common post-war Contax lenses such as the 21/4 Biogon, 35/3.5 Planar and 85/2 Sonnar command very high prices in good condition and that undoubtedly reflects user appreciation for quality and performance.
 
By the time you'll finish you first double stoke on Z-6, I'll already have image taken with FED-2. Some day I'll put video on you-tube to show how fast film advance on SERVICED FED-2 with larger knob is.

I highly doubt it but I'm looking forward to the video! I might as well film how fast the Z-6 can be with double-pump advance.
 
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