A Great Idea Xmas Contributes About Solving Kiev Frame Spacing

R

ruben

Guest
In a past and still ongoing thread, "Two small tips for Kiev 4AM owners", Noel (Xmas) and I have been discussing the issue of Kiev frame spacing problems.

The story somehow complicated itself a bit, due to the fact that the model 4AM or 4M, is different from all other models, in one of the main aspects concerning us, the fixed take up spool. Ok, we will solve it and probably end in better knowledge.

But two things should be remmarked. The first is that in very broad terms, it seems that the key for solving the issue in general is in the friction level of the take up fork. Control it and you control the frame spacing. Apparently a too tight fork will cause big spacing between frames, and a too loose fork will cause overlapping. This at least for an otherwise well working camera, and with soft REWIND knob/fork. This is to be further tested, but makes sense. My testing is limited so far to a single camera, and obviously it is not enough.

If it shows true, you will know in which direction you should act.

But how do you know you have reached the right level of friction after performing your adjustment ? Here came Noel with a great idea I want it not get lost, as i tryied myself in my test and it works wonders.

Noel proposes to insert a blank film, i, e, sacrifice a film for the cause, close the camera, take out the lens, and start shooting each frame at "B". At each "B" you will mark with a marker the frame borders on the film, inserting your marker from the empty lens mount, and at the end of the film you will have the exact behaviour of your camera.

And what if your marked film shows that a second adjustment is needed - will you sacrifice another film ? Nope, you will use a different color marker.

Does this proceeding works if after the test you will be shooting "real film" at different speeds ? Yes, it works as I have tested it by re-inserting the marked film and bringing the first frame to fit exactly the camera frame, by using the "B" setting. Then, I continued firing and changing speeds, going back to "B" , from time to time, to see if the framed marks fit or not, and they fitted accurately !

Cheers,
Ruben

PS
Notice too, that the "blank film test" is very practical for when you purchase a Kiev and want to know in advance if it will produce space problems or not.
 
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Ruben
If the REWIND knob is tight, it will cause the clutch to slip if it is too loose, resulting in overlapping frames.
Jon
 
I used that method few monhs ago, and it does work. BUT, since I had to unscrew the take up fork and change the amount of washers many times, it resulted in the screw part (I have no idea what to call it) getting worn off. My 4a is now a parts camera. I'm not sure if unscrewing/screwing many times lead to it getting worn off or not though, but it happened after that. The frame spacing did change with the amount of washers though.
 
JonP said:
Ruben
If the REWIND knob is tight, it will cause the clutch to slip if it is too loose, resulting in overlapping frames.
Jon
Correct Jon


manfromh said:
I used that method few monhs ago, and it does work.........
Hi manfromh,
What method are your refering to ? Excuss my misunderstanding.

AlexBurdov said:
Kiev takeup spool have two packing ring. Dust and grime on the it => Kiev frame spasing.
Hi Alex,
unfortunately I cannot understand your message. Could you express yourself in different words ?


Cheers,
Ruben
 
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manfromh said:
the method of changing the friction of the take up fork.

Hi manformh,
You may be right, as I still have to check this issue with different Kievs. So far it has worked for my 4AM.

Yet the great idea of Noel, about how to test frame spacing, holds very much.

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Ruben

Alas I must confess I merely gathered others peoples ideas together, all sourced from this site
Oleg I think contributed squeesing the take up fork spring, for frame spacing, you detected a problem with the 4am's rewing bush, the pencil on the film is a technique some one uses, rpinch... did the photo... etc.
So sorry please don't attribute anything to me but 'collection'.
Noel
P.S. I did have to do something myself to locate the wind on fork when the shaft and bush are worn, but before you strip the teeth, but Ive not told you about that... yet.
 
Hi Noel,
I attributed to you only the idea of the blank film test of frame spacing. If you cannot localize the source soon, I threaten you that I will start calling this great test "The Xmas Test".

Beware :D

Cheers,
Ruben
 
ruben said:
Correct Jon


Hi Alex,
unfortunately I cannot understand your message. Could you express yourself in different words ?


Cheers,
Ruben

View pic
614.JPG
 
Alex:

Thank you for the drawing. I see the part that needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

But you did not show how to remove the take-up spool.

Also, can you give us a second drawing that shows the part as it is disassembled?

Thank you.
 
tedwhite said:
Alex:

Thank you for the drawing. I see the part that needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

But you did not show how to remove the take-up spool.

Also, can you give us a second drawing that shows the part as it is disassembled?

Thank you.
Ok
I have Kiev 4AM. On week-end I make sample shot for this.
 
On behalf of all readers, upon last Tedwhite post, I would like to hopefully clarify some small issues about my use of the word "friction", during my exchanges with Noel.

The take up fork of all Kievs is built in shuch a way that a full turn of the winding knob doesn't mean automatically a corresponding turn of the fork.

The fork compound includes a very visible screw, pressing a spring, hidden without dissasembly, and the pressure regulates the numbers of turns of the fork, once we have winded our winding knob.

The fork pressure is not only against the the camera body, but engages too a thin cilinder going up to the top casting of the camera, and ending in a teeth wheel, being rotated by the winding knob and its gears, and this wheel is part of the whole rotative movement of the fork.

Now I arrive to the most important I wanted to clarify here. When I speak about calibrating the friction, I am assuming that all parts are clean and lubricated, that the REWIND KNOB is moving smoothly and not braking via the film the winding fork, and that the sprockets and their axis compound are also clean and lubricated. This was taken for granted by Xmas too, in our chats.

Now, regarding the Kiev models 4AM and 4M, the situation is not exactly the same. Once you dismantle the fixed take up spool, you find a different type of fork (engaging the take up spool), with much more spacers that in all other Kiev models, and no spring at all ! Therefore the friction is regulated by the amount of spacers only.

Now, anyone can try to regulate the friction of the take up fork of any Kiev model, without full CLA of the whole camera, and in this attempt the "Xmas blank film test" being the center of this thread, will be a first class way to save time and achieve accurate results.

But if you happen to get unconsistent results after cleaning and lubrication of the concerned visible parts, including a new adjustment of the friction, I assume you will have to disassemble the top casting and start a good CLA, as it will be shown at the Kiev Project.

I hope to have put things clear and not messed up the whole story.

Cheers,
Ruben

Ted, I do not know if this will be of a good reference for you, but with my Kiev 4AM, which is like new, meaning no broken teeth or parts, and CLAed by me, I formerly had a very very tight take up spool (and fork of course). I achieved correct frame spacing by loosening a bit the pressure (via taking out some spacers), but in general the level of friction of the take up spool on both direction remains on the tight side of possiblities.

Of course, in case Alex Burdov finds the time to photographically document the 4Am dissasembling of the take up spool and fork, this will be a huge contribution to all of us
 
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tedwhite said:
Alex:

Thank you for the drawing. I see the part that needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

But you did not show how to remove the take-up spool.

Also, can you give us a second drawing that shows the part as it is disassembled?

Thank you.

Ted
For photo of forks see...
http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbc...mechanism.html
if you have a 4am there is a plate at the end of the take up spool distant from the wind on knob. It has two or three small screws, undo them with watch makers screw driver. Remove plate, remove spool, you can now see details from earlier drawing.
Dismantle over deep tray or lose parts. hold the forks with pliers as you slacken of screw, (and as you tighten) as the gears are tiny, crunch,... ping, waaaaah.
Clean with C2H5OH and use soft (graphite) pencil as lube, on clutch surfaces...
Note Ruben did not have a spring just a stack of washers please say if yours has a spring or stack of washers.
Noel
 
I started thinking. The first time I took apart the take up fork, I remeber there was a spring there. But I didnt see it few days ago. I wonder what happened to it. Maybe it's still in one of the film canister thingies, which I used to store little parts in. If I can find a new one, then maybe I can still use the camera.
 
The spring is quite big, it would be difficult to omit but if you did the wind on would not work at all.

Noel
 
manfromh said:
Yeah, I now noticed the spring is still there

Hi manfromh,

Are you saying you have a SPRING at the TAKE UP FORK OF THE KIEV 4AM ?

Cheers,
Ruben
 
Ruben

He said 4a, but the FSU may have changed over to washers or used washers when they did not have springs, 'if you have not got a screw driver a hammer will do' old Ru saying.

Noel
 
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