ForestCap
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Useful features of Yashica T AF-D
Originally post on my tumblr:
http://poppelyang.tumblr.com/post/168147347738/useful-features-of-yashica-t-af-d
Today I’m going to write about this big, bulky and slightly ugly point and shoot camera Yashica T AF-D. After getting good results from the test roll, I think this made-in-the-80s thingy deserves a little talkabout. However I’m not gonna write a standard review, but only tell some useful feature/interesting facts of this camera, that people may have overlooked.
Dimensions: 124x73x47mm
Weight: 260g
Although smaller than most SLRs (why do i even write this?), this plastic bodied camera is on the larger side of P&S cameras kingdom. However, there are some features on this camera that are so outdated that you don’t find in many newer, flashier models, but might be well useful.
1.Auto-focus Distance Indicator: Remember those classical icons: Head, Group of people, Mountain, as you see on the lens barrel of pre-auto-focus scale focus cameras? Yashica T has the icons inside the viewfinder in LED form. Every time you auto-focus the camera, a corresponding icon would light up to tell you which distance range the camera has focused on. Head stands for 1-2 meter, Group stands for 2-4m and Mountain stands for 4m- Infinity. With this indicator, if the distance looked wrong (which rarely happens), you could simply refocus to see if you can get the correct focusing. This is a feature I really wish to have on my Olympus Mju II, since it occasionally miss-focuses.
2.Auto film winding is activated only after you lift your finger from the shutter release button after each shot. This is very heplful if you don’t want to make more noise to startle your subject. Shoot, hold the shutter release button, walk away and let them camera wind on.
3.Auto rewind is manually started by a switch at the bottom of the camera, and can be stopped anytime you like. Together with the film transport signal window ( the white-red twirly thingy), you can stop the rewinding right before the film lead goes into film canister, just stop rewinding as soon as the twirly thingy stops twirling.
4.Flash is OFF by default. Since you need to manually push the flash out a bit to the left of the camera to activate it, it will be very unlikely to have those embarrassing moments of photo taking with accidentally fired flash.
5. Quartzdata back supports as far as 2019-12-31.
6. ISO is manually set. So it’s Possible to have exposure compensation by fiddling with ISO setting.
7. You can change batteries in the middle of a roll and nothing would be ruined. It uses two AA batteries for shooting and a CR2025 button battery for the databack.
That’s most of it for now. I will add more content if I think of any.
Sample shots:
Fujicolor C200 in Tetenal C41
無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr
無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr
無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr
無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr
無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr
無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr
Originally post on my tumblr:
http://poppelyang.tumblr.com/post/168147347738/useful-features-of-yashica-t-af-d
Today I’m going to write about this big, bulky and slightly ugly point and shoot camera Yashica T AF-D. After getting good results from the test roll, I think this made-in-the-80s thingy deserves a little talkabout. However I’m not gonna write a standard review, but only tell some useful feature/interesting facts of this camera, that people may have overlooked.
Dimensions: 124x73x47mm
Weight: 260g
Although smaller than most SLRs (why do i even write this?), this plastic bodied camera is on the larger side of P&S cameras kingdom. However, there are some features on this camera that are so outdated that you don’t find in many newer, flashier models, but might be well useful.
1.Auto-focus Distance Indicator: Remember those classical icons: Head, Group of people, Mountain, as you see on the lens barrel of pre-auto-focus scale focus cameras? Yashica T has the icons inside the viewfinder in LED form. Every time you auto-focus the camera, a corresponding icon would light up to tell you which distance range the camera has focused on. Head stands for 1-2 meter, Group stands for 2-4m and Mountain stands for 4m- Infinity. With this indicator, if the distance looked wrong (which rarely happens), you could simply refocus to see if you can get the correct focusing. This is a feature I really wish to have on my Olympus Mju II, since it occasionally miss-focuses.
2.Auto film winding is activated only after you lift your finger from the shutter release button after each shot. This is very heplful if you don’t want to make more noise to startle your subject. Shoot, hold the shutter release button, walk away and let them camera wind on.
3.Auto rewind is manually started by a switch at the bottom of the camera, and can be stopped anytime you like. Together with the film transport signal window ( the white-red twirly thingy), you can stop the rewinding right before the film lead goes into film canister, just stop rewinding as soon as the twirly thingy stops twirling.
4.Flash is OFF by default. Since you need to manually push the flash out a bit to the left of the camera to activate it, it will be very unlikely to have those embarrassing moments of photo taking with accidentally fired flash.
5. Quartzdata back supports as far as 2019-12-31.
6. ISO is manually set. So it’s Possible to have exposure compensation by fiddling with ISO setting.
7. You can change batteries in the middle of a roll and nothing would be ruined. It uses two AA batteries for shooting and a CR2025 button battery for the databack.
That’s most of it for now. I will add more content if I think of any.
Sample shots:
Fujicolor C200 in Tetenal C41
無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr無標題 by X. Yang, 於 Flickr
