Nachkebia
Well-known
Check this out! nice alternative I have to say, some still life, day light portrait, abstract, fine art, landscape, excellent
Will try it for sure 
http://www.imx.nl/photosite/technical/adox/t005.html
http://www.imx.nl/photosite/technical/adox/t005.html
Silva Lining
CanoHasseLeica
It's available in the UK through Retrophotographic too! I have a 5 roll tester pack on order - includes special developer
http://www.retrophotographic.co.uk/
http://www.retrophotographic.co.uk/
enochRoot
a chymist of some repute
i was going to try it out as an alternative to the regular adox 25 (until i found some). interested to see results. do you guys think diafine would work well with it? diafine and adox 25 are a match made in heaven!
Nachkebia
Well-known
Silva Lining : Thanks for the info.
enochRoot : Can you show us images from adox 25? thanks
enochRoot : Can you show us images from adox 25? thanks
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
enochRoot: I would fancy Diafine wouldn't work with it, as CMS20 is a microfilm and is sold with special developer.
I've shot a roll or two and was very impressed by the tonality. However, it has a propensity for light piping through the clear film carrier material, so you have to be careful to load your camera in subdued light.
Philipp
I've shot a roll or two and was very impressed by the tonality. However, it has a propensity for light piping through the clear film carrier material, so you have to be careful to load your camera in subdued light.
Philipp
Schlapp
Well-known
What about kodak Fine grain release positive. Now that's fine grain!
Bryce
Well-known
Is there some advantage in using these materials over ordinary ones in a larger format? I haven't even thought about trying TechPan since buying medium format gear. Should I reconsider?
Nachkebia
Well-known
Schlapp : I thought kodak stop producing some stuff
even stinky digi cams 
Abbazz
6x9 and be there!
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
Bryce: well, it's IMHO slightly better than the ISO 100 material I used in medium format (FP4). It's not better than Efke 50 in medium format, but the speed advantage of Efke 50 is eaten up by the slower lenses. I don't shoot large format, but I can't imagine it's better on enlargement than large format, and you would lose the advantage of being able to tune the development process to the individual negative. I guess the main advantage is that you can use 35mm gear which is usually lighter, has faster optics and is more technically sophisticated 
On the other hand, if you want to make really big enlargements you'll have to use a tripod anyway due to camera shake since at 1/60 you get f/5.6 to f/8 in sunlight.
The big advantage is tonality on larger enlargements from 35mm negatives, which can be an advantage in daylight street photography.
If I were you, I'd just try it out.
Philipp
On the other hand, if you want to make really big enlargements you'll have to use a tripod anyway due to camera shake since at 1/60 you get f/5.6 to f/8 in sunlight.
The big advantage is tonality on larger enlargements from 35mm negatives, which can be an advantage in daylight street photography.
If I were you, I'd just try it out.
Philipp
enochRoot
a chymist of some repute
Nachkebia said:enochRoot : Can you show us images from adox 25? thanks![]()
i would love to, and will eventually...but i am still sans scanner. i plan on getting one when i get back from the trip i'm about to take (mid to late sept). so if you are still interested then...i'll be uploading many photos. i kind of dread the scanning process though as i have so many rolls. it is going to be a daunting task.
rxmd said:enochRoot: I would fancy Diafine wouldn't work with it, as CMS20 is a microfilm and is sold with special developer.
thanks. might still be worth one roll to try it out as i'm not too keen on messing with all the time/temp/agitation of other developers...i'm lazy
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
Actually the developer is very easy to use. One-shot developer at 1+24, 20°C (which I use for all other developers, too), 5 minutes, agitation twice per minute, and all this data is written on the bottle, too 
Philipp
Philipp
LKSC
Established
Nachkebia
Well-known
Excellent Lloyd Chan, thanks for the post!
sleepyhead
Well-known
Well, I am also interested in this film, but what I'm seeing in Lloyd's photo is poor black/shadow tones and blown out highlights. So... I'd rather have some grain and nice tonality...
Eddie90723
Established
I have a question about this film. Which I'm sure has a very simple answer. The lowest iso on my camera is 25, how would I set it to shoot iso20? -1/3 a stop? A full stop down? Maybe up a stop?
oftheherd
Veteran
I have a question about this film. Which I'm sure has a very simple answer. The lowest iso on my camera is 25, how would I set it to shoot iso20? -1/3 a stop? A full stop down? Maybe up a stop?
ISO (ASA) 20 is 1/3 stop slower than ISO 25. It probably won't make a big difference, since a lot of films seem to like a bit of overexposure. If you want to be a purist about it, use a properly calibrated hand held meter.
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