Leica LTM Advice for a new Leica III owner?

[Hans Berkhout]

FISON shade also works fine. Like othr clamp-on shades, the reference dot for diaphragm setting may be hidden by the shade. I lign up the L of Leica on the shade with the dot on the lens.

 

[Mr_Flibble]

I lign up the L of Leica on the shade with the dot on the lens.

That's actually a good idea. I'll have to remember that.


I have used several clamp on A36 hoods for the Elmar and Summar lenses, but as mentioned above the FIKUS is rather front-heavy. And tends to collapse/shift over a bit the course of handling it, requiring frequent resetting to the 5cm mark.

The FISON is nice, the lens cap goes straight over the hood.


Films I really like Fomapan 100. 200 already gets a bit too grainy for my liking. Fomapan 400 I like better in medium format, not in 35mm . And I really REALLY dislike Fomapan Retropan 320. 😉

 

[hap]

Welcome aboard.

Years ago you could get a 34mm screw in lens hood for the Summar, it is superior to the originals simply because it works and does not cost so much that you never take it out of the house.

I'll go along with the others about the condition of these lenses nowadays.

As for the pre-war aperture scales, it is possible to get meters showing these but the difference is so slight that the midway position works without any problems.

Regards, David

PS Years ago someone offered a complete refurbishment service including coating etc for the Summar; I have often searched for one but never found one...

I have this 34mm screw in frrom the UK for my summar.


https://www.srb-photographic.co.uk/34mm-metal-lens-hood-8829-p.asp

 

[hap]

34mm screw in hood for Summar that does not appear to vignette so long as filters are not used. a couple of years ago it came from:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/*jackthehat*?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754

I also have some old cine hoods that do the job but no longer know what their original source was.

IMG_1459 by dralowid, on Flickr

I have this for my summar. jack the Hat but also
https://www.srb-photographic.co.uk/34mm-metal-lens-hood-8829-p.asp

 

[newst]

Just an endorsement of Livesteamer's recommendation to use color as well as B&W. I have been very impressed with the look of Lomocolor 800. Two images, using that film, taken with another item I would recommend, the Leitz Elmar 3.5/35. Mine is a pre-war uncoated version. (Taken with a Canon P, not a Leica, however.)

2020-01-14 Canon P LOMO800 Elmar 35-35 000371740006 by newst54, on Flickr

2020-01-14 Canon P LOMO800 Elmar 35-35 000371740015 by newst54, on Flickr

 

[Ambro51]

Really, if you want “30s” style images, use Slow film and shoot at F 5.6 or 6.3. Stopping the Summar all the way down to use ISO 400 film at 1/500 changes “the look”. Rollei Ortho 25 is a nice match for the era. I’ve used ISO 6 and have been very pleased. The Summar, at F2, is Really a unique imagemaker.

 

[Erik van Straten]

The Summar, at F2, is Really a unique imagemaker.

Yes, great for portraits, see my shot above. The relatively small front lens produces a nice bokeh.


Erik.

 

[Erik van Straten]

gelatine silver print (summar) leica III

Erik.

 

[TheMapleLeafForever]

Really, if you want “30s” style images, use Slow film and shoot at F 5.6 or 6.3. Stopping the Summar all the way down to use ISO 400 film at 1/500 changes “the look”. Rollei Ortho 25 is a nice match for the era. I’ve used ISO 6 and have been very pleased. The Summar, at F2, is Really a unique imagemaker.

I will try that, thanks! Is this just for B+W or can the same effect be created using colour film? Would ISO 100-200 be still slow enough?

 

[Mr_Flibble]

Fastest film speeds in the 1940s was roughly 100 ASA. You can still open up the aperture enough with the fast speeds the Leica III/IIIa cameras' shutter offers.

Colour film will suffer a little bit due to the low contrast and resolving power at wider apertures, giving somewhat muted colours.

The Summar at wider apertures tends to render low shadow detail, but this generates a sort of 3D effect look that people seem to like. Contrast picks up at f/4 and the lens optimum performance is around f/5.6 and f/8. Good detail in the centre of the image, but it will always be softer at the corners.
Also some vignetting at wide apertures, which some say is the reason why the Summitar was designed to replace it after only seven years.

 

[TheMapleLeafForever]

That tidbit about film speeds in the 40s is enlightening. I might stick to 100s then. Working with the same film speeds and limitations they did should be interesting.

 

[presspass]

Re Pal's comment on holding a IIIa steady. Set the length of your shoulder strap so that when you run it around your right wrist you can tension the camera against your face. The IIIa is also just the right size to put your right thumb under the camera, against the base plate, while you squeeze the shutter release with your index finger. With practice, you can get sharp results most of the time down well below 1/60th. BTW, if you want a pocketable camera with no lens extension, get a 35mm Elmar 3.5. A truly marvelous lens that sticks out just a bit more than a lens cap.
Enjoy your IIIa, it's a wonderful camera capable of marvelous results.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Get SBOOI. Makes big difference in framing experience.

To replicate old look on photos get old single grade fiber darkroom paper and old Leica enlarger with Leica enlarger lens.

Scanning is fake retro. Doesn't matter which film.

Tri-X was available in 1940.

Introduced in 1940 as sheet film and adapted to 35mm and 120 formats in 1954, Tri-X was one of the first true high-speed black-and-white films. When initially released, it was rated at a blazingly fast ISO 200, and later upgraded to ISO 400

https://casualphotophile.com/2016/0...ed in 1940 as sheet,later upgraded to ISO 400.

 

[Dralowid]

Don't forget Ilford HP3, that was 400ASA in the '60s also, and...Kodak Royal X Pan, from memory was it 1250 ASA???

 

[David Hughes]

Leica's exposure guide dated April 1936 that came in the pocket in the back of a leather case suggests to me that normal film then was 32 ASA or ISO and fast was double that. After all the Summar is a mid 30's lens.


I use mine with colour print film and have had no problems but the first one I had was display only...


Regards, David

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Don't forget Ilford HP3, that was 400ASA in the '60s also, and...Kodak Royal X Pan, from memory was it 1250 ASA???

Yes!


And if OP wants to match IIIa era film, it has to be 25 ISO film. Not 100. 🙂

 

[hap]

That's actually a good idea. I'll have to remember that.


I have used several clamp on A36 hoods for the Elmar and Summar lenses, but as mentioned above the FIKUS is rather front-heavy. And tends to collapse/shift over a bit the course of handling it, requiring frequent resetting to the 5cm mark.

The FISON is nice, the lens cap goes straight over the hood.


Films I really like Fomapan 100. 200 already gets a bit too grainy for my liking. Fomapan 400 I like better in medium format, not in 35mm . And I really REALLY dislike Fomapan Retropan 320. 😉

there are several FISON chinese copies on eBay. I bought one, reasonable price (these days) and matches a chrome lens. works very well.

 

[TheMapleLeafForever]

Yes!


And if OP wants to match IIIa era film, it has to be 25 ISO film. Not 100. 🙂

Does anyone still make 25 ISO apart from Rollei? :angel:

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Does anyone still make 25 ISO apart from Rollei? :angel:

Pan f 50 @25. Or any 100 ISO film pulled @25.

But nothing will bring you closer than DR prints on fiber paper.

 

[Mr_Flibble]

there are several FISON chinese copies on eBay. I bought one, reasonable price (these days) and matches a chrome lens. works very well.

I have one of those for the 35mm Elmar. 😉

Does anyone still make 25 ISO apart from Rollei? :angel:

Adox