Advise me on a flash for a Nikon FE

[kshapero]

Going to do an event in color film but I know I will need a flash for my FE. Looking for inexpensive but as automatic as can be found that is compatible with a Nikon FE.

 

[FrankS]

I like the Nikon SB-15 flash, made for the FM/FE cameras of the time.

 

[markwatts]

SB-30 is a good alternative also.

 

[Pablito]

Vivitar 285 hv, an old reliable workhorse.

 

[kshapero]

SB-30 is a good alternative also.

I checked into this. It only works manually. What about the SB-10?

 

[markwatts]

Non TTL Auto mode also if I remember correctly.

 

[jonmanjiro]

Non TTL Auto mode also if I remember correctly.

Mark is correct. The SB-30 does non TTL auto and is very easy to use. Just set the aperture on the flash and lens, set the camera to the flash synch speed or slower, and fire away. I've been using my SB-30 on various cameras in non TTL auto mode with great results.

 

[rbsinto]

I've got an SB-10 that I bought around the time I got my FE (late 1970s).
It's simple to use and gives good results. It isn't sophisticated in that it can't swivel to give you bounce flash, but for straight-forward on-camera flash work it is fine.

 

[ronnies]

You probably can use any Nikon hotshoe flash up to (and including) the SB800 but not the later models or the SB600.

For a contemporary classic how about a Vivitar 283?

Ronnie

 

[dcsang]

What Frank said.

I've got an SB-15 and on the FM3A it is seriously a good flash - a lot better than I would have expected.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[sevo]

You probably can use any Nikon hotshoe flash up to (and including) the SB800 but not the later models or the SB600.

For a contemporary classic how about a Vivitar 283?

Don't use it unless you have the PC contact protection screw cap. Its trigger voltage (around 250V) is high enough that you do not want to put your finger on the PC port with a powered-up 283 attached to the hot shoe...

 

[ronnies]

Don't use it unless you have the PC contact protection screw cap. Its trigger voltage (around 250V) is high enough that you do not want to put your finger on the PC port with a powered-up 283 attached to the hot shoe...

I have yet to be 'shocked' by my 283. 🙂

Ronnie

 

[shadowfox]

I have a couple of SB-28 that I use as remote flash.
They are very versatile and durable.

 

[dcsang]

battery reliance... score one for the fm3a,cold weather its is horrible... and not water proof in the least bit. would be a five star camera with better battery and if you need flash come and visit on time ********** I hope you will fined your all requirement things with saving deals and compare prices.

I smell someone trying to advertise their services/store.

Dave

 

[Hibbs]

I have an FA and use a Vivitar 283...it is my reliable workhorse.

 

[FrankS]

I smell someone trying to advertise their services/store.

Dave

Handled .

 

[Dwig]

Don't use it unless you have the PC contact protection screw cap. Its trigger voltage (around 250V) is high enough that you do not want to put your finger on the PC port with a powered-up 283 attached to the hot shoe...

The later 283s had a safe low voltage trigger circuit. Even so, you should always treat a 283 has having a high voltage trigger circuit unless you know how to safely and properly measure the voltage of your particular sample. I've never encountered a Nikon, any model, damaged by a high trigger voltage flash, though the number of Canon AE-1s fried by 283s that I've personally encountered numbers well into the hundreds.

 

[divewizard]

Any brand flash with an auto mode will work fine since the camera is not TTL. I have used Sunpak, Rollei, Olympus, and Nikon branded flashes with mine and all worked great.

 

[farlymac]

I used to use a Sunpak 611 with mine.

PF

 

[Rob-F]

M Nikon Sb-24 works well with my FE2. So does my Sunpak. I think it's a 585.