Agfa APX 400 (Arista2 400) @1600?

[Nh3]

I mistakenly shot a roll of Arsita2 400 (Agfa APX 400) at 1600.

The only developer that I have is rodnial but I can't find rodinal timings at 1600 for this film. There are also some important shots in this role so I'm being cautions and I don't want to take any chances.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[itf]

I used to push this film to about 1600 in a generic phenidone hydroquinone print developer diluted down, it worked pretty well. Ilford DD-X and Microphen are phenidone hydroquinone film developers that are recommended for pushing and will probably give better results and require less experimentation than a print developer, there are other similar developers too. Check digitaltruth.com and maybe do a test roll of the same film if the roll you've already exposed is important. You could also give it a stand in rodinal 1:100.

 

[Nh3]

thanks itf, what time should i use with the 1:100 stand development?

 

[Disaster_Area]

check out my thread
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66354

I got really good results from Rodinal 1:200 for 2 hours. Inversions for the first minute, then stand for an hour, swish it around at an hour (don't invert, just a gentle swirl for 5 sec or so), then stand for another hour. I actually shot half the roll at 800 and half at 1600 and both turned out pretty good 🙂

(correction, I used 1:100 for 2 hours, not 1:200)

 

[Disaster_Area]

sorry.. I used 1:100 my mistake

 

[Leigh Youdale]

My Agfa data gives Rodinal times for Fuji Neopan 1600 of you want to try that.
1+25 = 3.5 minutes
1+5- = 8 minutes.

However, this is obviously for 1600 film that has been correctly exposed. You have effectively underexposed by two stops so you might like to interpolate from 9say) the data for Ilford Delta 400 when exposed at 1600. Ilford give time for ID-11 and LC29 at different dilutions and D-76.
The increase in standard (ISO400) development times for the same film exposed at ISO1600 vary between 1.5x and 1.75x.
For ID-11 and D-76 the standard time is 9 or 9.5 minutes and the extended times are 14.5 and 14.5 in both cases. They also list 9 minutes for Delta400 in Rodinal @ 1+25 but not times for other ISO settings.

I think if it was me I'd be making up Rodinal at 1+25 and developing for 14.5 minutes as I like contrasty negatives. If you don't then go for 14 minutes.
Hope that helps.

 

[Nh3]

In the massive development chart the timing for this film with Rodinal 1.25 @ 800 is 14. So, at ISO 1600 - 16 minutes?

 

[kaiyen]

If you're doing stand or semi-stand, time almost doesn't matter. Well, semi-stand of maybe 15 minutes it would matter, but if it's 30 minutes or more between agitation, you can go to one hour, 1.5 hours, 2 hours - it's going to be pretty similar. Complete stand then it really is about the same.

 

[itf]

If you have photos you don't want to lose on the roll, it would be a good idea to run a test first and see if the results are ok, especially trying something a little unusual.

It depends what the light was like too, if the light was flat the results are likely to be better than if the light was contrasty because pushing will increase contrast. Sometimes under exposing and over processing (pushing) looks better (my opinion) in flat light than normal exposure, but pushing in bright sunlight is likely to give burnt highlights or empty shadows (which can look good, IMHO, but not always).

There has been a lot of discussion on rodinal stand development recently (probably what disaster area is linking to), and there are people that know more about it than I. I'd say disaster area's suggestion is probably a good one. I stand it 1:100 for an hour with only 30 seconds of agitation at the start, but thats for roughly box speed. A second lot of agitation at 1 hour followed by another hour of standing would be where I'd start for a push.

 

[Leigh Youdale]

In the massive development chart the timing for this film with Rodinal 1.25 @ 800 is 14. So, at ISO 1600 - 16 minutes?

The difference between 14 or 16 minutes isn't huge. The result is likely to be an increase in contrast and density rather than any gross blocking up. I'd still be a little cautious and maybe go for 15 minutes @ 20C. Whether it would be best at 14 or 16 is probably less significant in terms of image quality than the two stops underexposure.

 

[funkaoshi]

If the photos are so important, maybe you should just go to Downtown Camera and buy some DD-X or something. I think experimenting with Rodinal is fine, but maybe it's something to do on a roll you don't care too much about.

 

[itf]

As a very very general rule, 1 stop push = 1.5 x the time. Following that rule, if 800 = 14 min, 1600 = 21 min. However, I wouldn't take that as gospel.

 

[Nh3]

Thanks guys. I processed the film and its drying now but I think i saved the important photos.

I used Rodinal 1:25 at 15 minutes. I'll post an example when I scan them.

But I think 800 is max for this film and 1600 should be used only in emergencies.

 

[Nh3]

Here is an example, a simple shot but it confirms that this film can do ISO1600...

Rodinal 1:25, 15 minutes @ 20c.