Agfa APX compare to Tri-X?

S

Skinny McGee

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How does Agfa Apx 400 compare to TriX? Can you process it in D76? If so Is it the same timing ? It is alot cheaper. I have Rodinal but usually only use it to process pushed film... Any help would great...
Thanks
Skinny
 
APX400 is grainier than TriX, and it can't be pushed at all (it's real speed is somewhere in the 200 to 250 ASA range...). It is a nice film, though, haven't tried it with D76 myself, I used Rodinal 1+25 (mainly in MF).

Roman
 
Hi Skinny, I`ve been playing with some Agfa APX400 films that I´ve developed with D-76, D-76 1:1, Tmax an Xtol.
For nomal grain D-76 and Tmax work well and behave alike. Too grainy for me.
Now on Xtol diluted 1:1 is Ok with very little grain.
I don´t know how do they print because I scan my negatives and have them printed on a Digital Lab, but I like the tones of this film, the negatives come out thick and dark.
Roman's advice about not pushing it is very true, and I would add it hasn't much latitude and forgiveness, but is still a great film for grainny look shots.

Pablo
 
Skinny McGee said:
How is the 100 Agfa Bw?
APX100 is one of my favourite films. I get excellent tonality from it. A visible grain structure, but pleasing. I bought a 100' roll of it for bulk loading, plus a small brick of prepackaged 120.

Gene
 
A bit late, but I also have to say that APX 100 is great - extremely sharp in combination with Rodinal 1+50, my favorite film in the 100 ASA range.

Roman
 
Roman said:
APX400 is grainier than TriX, and it can't be pushed at all (it's real speed is somewhere in the 200 to 250 ASA range...). It is a nice film, though, haven't tried it with D76 myself, I used Rodinal 1+25 (mainly in MF).

Roman

Tri-X's real world speed is also in the 200-250 range.
 
APX 100 is a wonderful film, APX 400 sucks.... Stay with Tri-x...
I`ve gotten useful results with 120 film , but the grainy, lowcontrast results in 35mm are not for me...
 
Larry:

I have one roll exposed at 400 ready to process, shot in an Olympus 35-SP. I'm going to use Ilford DD-X, even though I have Rodinal and HC-110 on hand. I won't get to it until at least Tuesday night, and I don't have printing capability right now, so I'll have to judge by examination under a loupe only.

Like Gene, I also recently bought a bulk roll of APX100. I used previous formulations in the past and liked it. Combined with recommendations here and other sites that spoke to it's tonal rendition, I decided to give it a long trial.

Trius
 
I recently shot a roll of APX400 in my Yashica LM, rated it at 400 and developed it in Rodinal at 1+100 for 22 minutes with reduced agitation.

I was expecting something grainy and generally not too nice judging by what I had read. Plus, I have till recently not been fond of films faster than ISO100.

I have to say, I was quite impressed - sharp, no real grain (well, it is 6x6 I suppose) and good tone. I'll certainly give it another try.

Next roll to develop is TriX rated at 3200 and shot in the Iskra. Looks like I'll try the suggestion in the thread "TX 3200 ala Merciful" and go with rodinal 1+50 for 30 minutes.

Paul
 
I think I might be doing something wrong, but when I develop APX 100 in Diafine I get little contrast, or not as much as I would like. Im giving Ilford Delta a shot since I heard its contrasty.
 
einolu said:
I think I might be doing something wrong, but when I develop APX 100 in Diafine I get little contrast, or not as much as I would like.
You might be making the same mistake as I did when first using Diafine years ago. Excessive agititation. Took me a long time and a lot of frustrating bad results before I recently theorized it was due to agitating the same moderate way I did with other developers like FG7, D76, etc.

Keep in mind the only developer present when development is triggered in Bath B is what has soaked into the emulsion in Bath A and is also layered on the surfaces of the film. There's no reason to agitate, which usually brings fresh developer to the film, except to gently carry away development byproducts. But I propose that "normal" agitation also will wash the developer OUT of the film and result in low densities and low contrast in the negs. Best to keep the developer concentrated and working hard in the film where it belongs! So I've had better results now with very very gentle agitation in Bath B. In Bath A it just doesn't matter one way or the other; the film's only there to soak up some juice. 🙂
 
Agfa 100 and Rodinal are like Anthony and Cleopatra, Chateau Neuf du pape and well riped 60% fat Brie, Modiglianni and brancusi, Leon Redbone and Do-Wah-Diddy, Leonardo and the last supper .... a simply must do, totally natural combination ... up until discovering this I thought Tri-x at 250 and D-76 was the bees knees.
But if you really want the Meniscus of the bees knees try Efke 25 and Neofin Blue ... takes some effort to figure out exact developement times, be it 7:06 or 7:38 excl. pouring, it must be the absolute best thing ever, but like I said hard to configure (but fun) and the differences are really at "second (as in 1/60th of a minute)" level, the end result is like slow charcoal roasted duck with a fresh orange and contreau sauce, butter broiled basilicum potatoes and class A asparagus wrapped in limousin boiled ham and laid to rest in fresh butter.... ofcourse with a 1984 riesling to wash away..... so many good things in photography and kitchen .....
 
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And as mentioned Agfa 400 is like an overdone Mc donalds cheeseburger....... for what it's worth.

Strange that a company like agfa can produce two such totally different preoduct within the same family of films.
 
I think its actually the same film, 100 and 400. even the box says 100/400...

and thanks a lot for the tip doug, Im trying it out as we speak. The experiment wont be a good one since I am developing delta 400 and not agfa, if I see amazing contrast then it could be either my "super duper gentle aggitation" method or the delta, heh.
 
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