All Metal vs Plastic-tipped Advance Lever

Dave Wilkinson said:
....don't tempt me!!
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You were thinking of an extended career in hitchhiking, right? 😛

Anyway, I got to learn on the difference in cranks and since a Leicaphile when it comes to my black M3's correct appearance, I now have a purpose in internet life again: gettin the right crank!
M3's at Will van Manen now for a small after-CLA job, and will be off to CCR next to have its RF restored. Oh, and I'm shooting it too, as much as the M6!
 
short metal lever with dent the speed selector wheel if you release violently the lever. I know because I had a M2 with that lever and noticed later the above speedwheel was dented all around.

When it lands on the shoe accessory, at least there is only one dent.
 
Gerry Smith recently put a lever from a DS M3 on my M4, he had one on hand and it was a lot cheaper than a new MP lever. It stands off farther before engaging the winding gears, and is indeed a little less burly than the MP lever, but works fine.

I too much prefer the all metal wind-on. The plastic tipped levers on my M7s are different in use- one which is going to get replaced just doesn't feel right at all- the lever doesn't move the same as on the others. Gotta love that M individuality.
 
Remembered this thread when shooting the M3 DS today and wanted to put you all at ease 😉

My self-converted-black 1955 M3 DS does have the correct shorter lever after all. I bought it in black paint from Leicaparts/Tonaya on eBay.

Question: did I actually buy a very rare original spare-part black DS lever, or where these shorter DS levers also made later on?

@Keith: I'm sorry to bring this up again, just cannot catch sleep without being in the know, you see... 😀
 
So far 47 posts on this subject (48 with mine) - I think it is high time to go outside and and use the damn thing!!!!
I have always liked the metal lever as it makes these tell tale marks on the shutterspeed dial. Amateaur: Dents on 1/125 and 1/250, Pro's 1/50 (flash synch), 1/250 and 1/1000, M used on a Reprovit or Microscope: heavy dents on B and 1 sec, with occasional forays into 1/2 sec and 1/4 sec territory!!!
The plastic tipped M4 and later advance, nice as long as the tip stays on, miserable when it breaks and fall off - way too short and sharp!
The good thing with Rapidwinders/Leicavit's and Motor/winders - it doesn't matter!
Ok, now you can either go to sleep (European/Japanes time) or go out and shoot!
 
Tom A said:
So far 47 posts on this subject (48 with mine) - I think it is high time to go outside and and use the damn thing!!!!
I have always liked the metal lever as it makes these tell tale marks on the shutterspeed dial. Amateaur: Dents on 1/125 and 1/250, Pro's 1/50 (flash synch), 1/250 and 1/1000, M used on a Reprovit or Microscope: heavy dents on B and 1 sec, with occasional forays into 1/2 sec and 1/4 sec territory!!!
The plastic tipped M4 and later advance, nice as long as the tip stays on, miserable when it breaks and fall off - way too short and sharp!
The good thing with Rapidwinders/Leicavit's and Motor/winders - it doesn't matter!
Ok, now you can either go to sleep (European/Japanes time) or go out and shoot!
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Hi Tom! Interesting info from you! Here's what I did to prevent further dings on my SS dial. Heat-shrink rubber sleeves on the end of the lever:

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Sorry I don't mean to further add to the length of this thread but I just could not resist it. 😀
 
I do like the look of the metal lever but after reading this I guess that a conversion to one on my M6 TTL would be out of the question due to oversize ss dial.

Steve.
 
Krzys said:
When I first used a plastic tipped winder I freaked out thinking that I had broken it. I still think its broken and a silly design. Do you see hinged plastic tipped winders on any other cameras???? Metal works and looks great.
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SAME! when i first got my M6 i thought I'd need to fork out extra money to replace it 😛
 
fellas,

I AM shooting the damn thing, all the time and loving what it does for me. Yet, I like the thing for what it is as well and am truly interested. I found an original spare-part top plate without a number on it (not even a fingerprint, for that matter!), I know the bottom plate is an MP plate, all other controls and the rear sync rings are DIY-black (Read: flaking 🙂) and I'm just wondering if the short lever was ever available as an after-market part.

This is it now:
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Now if you'll all excuse me, shades are reaching up to 1.5x my length, time to go out and shoot!
 
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