Anti-halation layer blues...

[Pfreddee]

I have a problem with my latest attempt to develop B/W. The film is Tri-X, developed in HC 110 at 9ml per 10 oz of water, for 6 minutes @ 68 F, fixed in Kodafix for 4 minutes. It's processed in a Patterson tank, with agitation for 10 seconds every minute. the anti-halation layer is very obvious. Even after the film is dry.

What am I doing wrong?😕

Thanks to all who reply.

With best regards,

Pfreddee(Stephen)

 

[sevo]

What is your wash cycle, and is your water within usual limits for CO2 and Ca/Mg?

I have never used Kodafix (IMHO it is not priced competitively in Europe), but have never had staining with Tri-X in HC-110 fixed in Hypam or any of the Tetenal fixers, and would assume the latter to be reasonably similar to Kodafix.

 

[Arjay]

Increase washing after fixing. I do that and repeat washing runs until the water is hardly colored any more when pouring it out of the tank.

Besides, the film base color cast is no problem when scanning: Scans may have a yellowish tint which can be fixed easily in post-processing.

 

[StuartR]

Kodak film is pink. It pretty much stays pink, even after hypo clear and an extensive wash. I have talked to the film product specialists about this through the Kodak professional services hotline, and they confirmed that this is just the way the film is. It has no effect on either scanning or wet printing. If it really really bothers you, the best way to get rid of it is to use a two bath fix (google it if necessary) followed by a one minute rinse, two minutes in hypo clear and then a 5-10 minute wash with multiple changes of water. Then put the negatives in a negative sleeve and leave them in the sun for awhile. The UV light will break down the residual anti-halation layer, and the films will become more neutral.

 

[BillBingham2]

Pfreddee,

Are you sure it's the anti-halation layer? Is it the full length of the film? Do you have a few frames you can do a test with. Put them back in your fixer for say 20 minutes and see if that clears what you are calling anti-halation layer. Fixing is where the Anti-Halation layer is removed not washing. You will need to wash and dry you film again so if you can find a frame or three that might be given up for science it will work better.

It might just be the base of the film. I never remember Tri-X being pink, but that was a lot of years ago and the Great Yellow Father could have made changes. I remember it as Blue-Greyish. Pink would put it into the spectrum of a polycontrast filter, which might be an improvement but I'm not sure. I was an old F3 sort of paper guy.

B2 (;->

 

[haempe]

I had similar problems last time with Kodak TMZ.
I increased the fixing time by 50% and doubled agitation moves during fixation.
Next I will try a fatter dillution of fixing bath ( I used the thinnest proposed dillution this time).

edit:
I suspect that the effect is caused by lower temperature of the fixing bath.