Anybody cut 120 into 2.25x3.25 sheets?

I can kinda understand this, if you are carrying like half a dozen Grafmatics, but on the other hand, a couple of 120 backs and you are in the same territory. The 120 holders will be admittedly heavier.

I use Grafmatics for 4x5 for this reason, but never have I wanted to deal with 2x3 sheet film personally.

How many 2x3 Grafmatics do you have and/or plan to carry? Of course I think you shoot different subjects than me. I used to carry two 120 holders when I shot my Linhof 70 - one with color and one with b&w. That is my personal main issue with normal 120 cameras - what if I want to shoot just one color shot on the day? Typical for me with 4x5 to carry 2-6 color sheets only, but 12-24 black and white.

Anyway, good luck on whatever you choose. I tend to carry multiple Century Graphics myself when shooting (landscape usually). One is a custom sawed-off camera with a permanent 38mm lens, the other can take 65mm, 105mm, and 180mm. Or sometimes I use one camera w/ 80mm and that one is rangefinder-coupled.

C,

I own ten 2x3 Graphmatics.

I also have a fixed lens 4x5 with a 90/8.0 Super Augulon and a 1956 Linhof Tech IV/V that hast a worn patina to the original leather.

I got "Linhof-Disease" from my friend Christian.

Cal
 
There is a B&H like warehouse right down the road from the Ilford plant. They have helped me get 2x3 HP5+ and FP4+

The Arista 2x3 is not a bad price either 125 & 400.

Prolly works out to under 5 cents a shot with Fuji XRAY

Dan,

PhotoWarehouse participates in ILFORD's ULF program and on occasion the blow out their old freezer stored stock.

If I were not such a cheap B. I would just shoot FP4 and HP5 for the long-long term and just be happy-happy.

I want to be crazy-good, but not too crazy.

For me stuff like this is a great distraction, otherwise Covid would be harder to deal with.

Thanks for helping me with my obsessive thinking. LOL.

Cal
 
That's a lot of Grafmatics!

I only have 4 for 4x5, as well as one "Kinematic" holder - if you've never heard of them, basically it's is the same as a Graf but holds 10 sheets!

I guess I have some form of Linhof Disease - as I own one Linhof III, one IV, and two Master 4x5 cameras! I keep thinking about finding a 23b as a replacement for the 70...
 
That's a lot of Grafmatics!

I only have 4 for 4x5, as well as one "Kinematic" holder - if you've never heard of them, basically it's is the same as a Graf but holds 10 sheets!

I guess I have some form of Linhof Disease - as I own one Linhof III, one IV, and two Master 4x5 cameras! I keep thinking about finding a 23b as a replacement for the 70...

C,

My coolest Linhof is a Baby Master V that evidently was some Linhof experiment or prototype. It lacks movements and is a folding camera that came with a 95mm cam for a Rodistock 95/2.8. No grip just a leather strap/handle.

This Tech V has no serial number.

My Baby Tech IV came with a Zeiss 100/2.8 Planar that had separation issues that the seller was very up front about. I got a huge kit for no money and sent the Planar to John at Focal Point and he repaired the separation for $250.00. I won the lottery on that camera.

Of course I got infected with Zeiss disease and got a 53 Biogon...

You never know when you might run into a "Dance Parade" in NYC off Broadway near Union Square and run into a group of pole dancers warming up in the staging area.

"I was just minding my own business," I say.

No lie. This happened to me. I had a Mamya 6 with the 50 so I shot close with a 28mm FOV. In some of the shots a girls leg almost kicked my camera. You cant make this stuff up.

Cal
 
I once got a box of 4x5 that was oversize by 1/32 or less and would not fit holders. Modified rotary cutter with thick board taped to 4” position. Hair width strips were cut off sucessfully so this works well.

I would cut down 4x5 or 8x10 (less waste) as the backing is more robust.
That or use roll film holder.
 
I once got a box of 4x5 that was oversize by 1/32 or less and would not fit holders. Modified rotary cutter with thick board taped to 4” position. Hair width strips were cut off sucessfully so this works well.

I would cut down 4x5 or 8x10 (less waste) as the backing is more robust.
That or use roll film holder.

Ron,

Seems like cutting down sheets is the way to go.

Dan says 8x10 for lower costs.

I own two rotary cutters. Hmmm...

My goal is to try and shoot 2.25x3.25 as if 135 using my ten Graphmatics.

I will also consider using my roll film backs.

Thanks for your response.

Cal
 
Loading Up The Truck Fuji XRay by Nokton48, on Flickr

This HRU is coated on both sides and is very delicate. But can be beautiful
Kodak Min-R Single Sided Mammography 18x24cm by Nokton48, on Flickr

XRAY and Mammo films are good for some situations.

Dan,

This is good to keep in mind. Experimenting is fun, and can lead to novel results.

Retirement is soon and it will be liberating. The main purpose of this thread is to try something new, be bold and do something crazy.

"Crazy is good," I say.

So if I have my way I will be shooting mucho films.

The HRU seems like it could present novel results. Hmmm...

Also cheap is good and promotes going crazy.

Been thinking about my gear on the train this morning. Obsessive thinking of how to best utilize all the gear I already own.

Looks like I will be making the jump to 4x5, but because I like taking lots of shots the smaller formats still work for me.

At Aperture Gallery in Chelsea I saw a show that presented contact sheets of some famous well known photographers. One was Diane Arbus. She was known to carry three loaded Rollies in a knapsack, this was her way to deal with the reloading and limitation of frames available; she just grabbed another loaded camera.

So this one contact sheet was of the little boy she encountered in Central Park playing with a toy grenade. Basically she blew through 12 exposures and the one shot that she edited it down to was marked with a wax pencil.

You could see how she moved, reframed, and took each shot doing an interactive dance with her subject.

With 35 mm I tend to shoot in three round bursts. An hit-man also tends to shoot three shots: stomach, chest and head. Similarly I tend to first get a "cover shot" then I start moving closer.

At times after a three round burst, I'll do another.

Christian says the way I shoot is more like a performance because I tend to engage with my subjects. Also know that for about a decade I actually was a performance artist.

John calls my cameras "Monsters" because even a M-body will have a TA Rapidwinder and TA Rapidgrip so I can shoot it as if a Nikon F3P with motordrive.

Christian says I should start a series "The Crazies of New York" because for some reason I seem to draw them out.

"Takes one to know one," they say. LOL.

Cal
 
One more side-note for you. I've shot a lot of x-ray film, in 8x10 camera usually. The Fuji HR-U or HR-T is my most common film.

These films are very fragile and prone to scratching. They also have emulsion on both sides, which not only exacerbates the scratching issue but also gives a bit of "bloom" to the images. I believe the smaller you go the more this may be prevalent - which may be an interesting look but I figured I'd mentioned it.

Certainly at the price it's great. I can shoot 8x10 cheaper than traditional 120 film (!!!). Definitely give it a shot - no reason not to at the price - but you'll need to configure your development to not have massive scratches.

PS: a good starting point is 1:100 Rodinal for 6-7 minutes at 20C. I also got great results with Acufine with extremely fast development times (1:30 to 2 minutes). Pyrocat is another good option and seems to harden the emulsion a bit - but scratches happen during development generally, not after.
 
One more side-note for you. I've shot a lot of x-ray film, in 8x10 camera usually. The Fuji HR-U or HR-T is my most common film.

These films are very fragile and prone to scratching. They also have emulsion on both sides, which not only exacerbates the scratching issue but also gives a bit of "bloom" to the images. I believe the smaller you go the more this may be prevalent - which may be an interesting look but I figured I'd mentioned it.

Certainly at the price it's great. I can shoot 8x10 cheaper than traditional 120 film (!!!). Definitely give it a shot - no reason not to at the price - but you'll need to configure your development to not have massive scratches.

PS: a good starting point is 1:100 Rodinal for 6-7 minutes at 20C. I also got great results with Acufine with extremely fast development times (1:30 to 2 minutes). Pyrocat is another good option and seems to harden the emulsion a bit - but scratches happen during development generally, not after.

C,

Many thanks.

This is a new universe for me.

Cal
 
There's also a massive thread on the Large Format forum dedicated to x-ray film discussion and images.

C,

Dan and my friend MFM have pointed me in that direction.

One thing I know is that I am a bit crazy in an OCD kinda way. So far I have contained myself, but I can kinda get crazy.

But thanks for pointing that out. I think eventually when I retire the crazy will get full blown.

I kinda have an addictive personality, and I am known to do crazy things. Had an 84 Jeep Scrambler with a half cab that I installed a Corvette engine into. Of course this truck was jacked up and had oversized tires. Had a cut-down Ford nine inch rear with Lincoln Continental rear disc brakes and a 200 pound cast iron tranny with a 6.31 underdrive and an overdrive.

Basically I built a Humvee before it was invented.

Cal
 
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