Anyone here shooting Medalists? NSFW

U41336I1443129891.SEQ.0.jpg

Some of my wife's' handiwork , ( eerily dry and sunny summer in Vancouver ) this ol'
brick of a camera still amazes me
 
Medalist II. These shots were on Tri X which sat undeveloped for a year or so and were exposed to more heat than I'd prefer. As a result, the image quality isn't as great as it could have been if I hadn't lost track of the roll.



 
I have a love/hate thing going on with my Medalist II. Love the sharp lens and huge negative but hate the way this thing holds in my hand. Too hard to depress shutter. Also lack of infinity stop.

Cicero Yard by Rob F, on Flickr
 
Hallo, got an early medalist (possibly wartime) from ebay, but it is in bad shape.

Shutter doesn't seem to work, when I cock the small lever that should advance the film nothing happens, shutter button when pressed sometimes get stuck.

Focusing is hard, there is some resistance.

I'm living in Italy and I do not know if there is a repair shop within eu that be capable of adjusting it (sending it to USA would entail paying vat on return of camera, afaik).

Moreover, given its conditions I'm asking myself if it is worth repairing.

Pictures you posted are tempting but in the end I would be possibly better off buying straight a FUJI GS690 or 680 and be it all.
 
...
Shutter doesn't seem to work, when I cock the small lever that should advance the film nothing happens, shutter button when pressed sometimes get stuck.
...
You really need to get hold of the instructions booklet for this camera to be able to use it (and to identify precisely what is wrong, as distinct from what is a feature), as the sequence of operations for film loading and operation is quite complex.
A few points that come to mind about the controls are :-

- The helicoid has to be deployed to the operational position for the shutter to work.

- The film is advanced by turning the knob on the top, left. This also arms the shutter.

- The small lever under the eye window is used to give an additional (re-)arming of the shutter, if a double exposure is desired.

- The small lever around the shutter button, used to hold it down for time exposures, can sometimes shift and cause the shutter to stick. (This was removed from the later Medalist II.)

ADDITIONAL
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak/kodak_medalist_ii/kodak_medalist_ii.htm
 
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You really need to get hold of the instructions booklet for this camera to be able to use it (and to identify precisely what is wrong, as distinct from what is a feature), as the sequence of operations for film loading and operation is quite complex.
A few points that come to mind about the controls are :-

- The helicoid has to be deployed to the operational position for the shutter to work.

- The film is advanced by turning the knob on the top, left. This also arms the shutter.

- The small lever under the eye window is used to give an additional (re-)arming of the shutter, if a double exposure is desired.

- The small lever around the shutter button, used to hold it down for time exposures, can sometimes shift and cause the shutter to stick. (This was removed from the later Medalist II.)

ADDITIONAL
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak/kodak_medalist_ii/kodak_medalist_ii.htm

Very interesting and quite unusual features.

So mechanically it might be in better than I thought conditions.

Ty
 
^ Similar problems when I first got mine, but some careful cleaning and lubing of the helicoil got the focusing smooth again ( they're quite substantial parts ) . And to reaffirm "citizen99" remarks, don't wind on the film or cock the shutter until the lens is out to focusing distance, otherwise you're putting considerable strain on the shutter cocking lever, (it's at an extreme angle when the lens is wound in).
The pictures from my Medalist 1 make all repair efforts worth while. Peter
 
^ Similar problems when I first got mine, but some careful cleaning and lubing of the helicoil got the focusing smooth again ( they're quite substantial parts ) . And to reaffirm "citizen99" remarks, don't wind on the film or cock the shutter until the lens is out to focusing distance, otherwise you're putting considerable strain on the shutter cocking lever, (it's at an extreme angle when the lens is wound in).
The pictures from my Medalist 1 make all repair efforts worth while. Peter

Got a contact from a repairer in Italy, he will take it in for a free quote on the repair work.

I'm just wondering as of a last consideration if I shouldn't buy a good one from the e-net since they seem to go for around $ 250 including shipping to Italy.

On the other side a well adjusted one might be superior to an off the net camera just dusted off from basement storage, sellers might be honest but they cannot be good judges as they are mostly profane.
 
If you go with the repair you have the satisfaction of knowing you're using a camera that is good condition.


Got a contact from a repairer in Italy, he will take it in for a free quote on the repair work.

I'm just wondering as of a last consideration if I shouldn't buy a good one from the e-net since they seem to go for around $ 250 including shipping to Italy.

On the other side a well adjusted one might be superior to an off the net camera just dusted off from basement storage, sellers might be honest but they cannot be good judges as they are mostly profane.
 
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