By the way... not to bump my own thread these were taken with a infrared converted Nikon Coolpix L20. - Nikon's low-end consumer point-n-shooter with no manual control. All "bokeh" you see was added in Photoshop using quick-select and lens blur features with careful use of "Quick Select" (mostly) and sometimes the pen tool to make a path.
Some have said these are "over-photoshopped" but I disagree...
Discussion Points...
1. Above incorporates classic street photography techniques. Mostly I use a Flip*Bak ($15), which is just a mirror that attaches to standard-size LCDs and acts as a waist-level finder for more steath shooting and gives you an ability to shoot quickly at non-eye-level angles easily for better comps.
2. Using "all auto" camera allows me not to worry about shutter speed, aperture, focusing - etc. There are more and more studies that say we (humans) are "horrible" at mult-tasking.
Question. Do "classic cameras" require too much "multi-tasking" to get it right in the street? They require you to (sometimes) meter, set aperture and or shutter speed, and or +/- exposure compensation, and focus. Hardly a "quick" or "stealthy" way of shooting ... And, this must be done while you're composing. To me, this is "multi-tasking" are results in screwed up shots too often. Isn't it better to take advantage of technology?
3. I don't consider the above "over-photoshopped" because they all use traditional effects... Simple filters, gradiated filters, sometimes cross-processing effects, and digital infrared, and lens blur effects that /I/ control. Everything above could have been done at practically any time since photography was invented. But it wasn't done because it was too difficult/impossible to do. You rarely saw someone shoot HIE with a gradiated filter on top of an infrared filter then cross process it for slide film - stuff like that. By doing so, you stay in the accessible "comfort zone". By adding lens blur in post, I can shoot at working apertures - get the benefits from that in terms of optical sharpness and still isolate the subject and control the amount I wish to apply without being "chained" to distance and aperture setting with optical physics dictating (unpredictably) the look of the OOF.
That I can do all this with a $100 camera (yes, and software... and some skill, but not much, in its use...) I'm beginning to more and more think that I shoot these old cameras (and I went on a binge recently - but with classic point-n-shooters) because I simply enjoy using them and film (a whole lot)... but not because they offer any real practical advantage over digital...
That said, I think that if you want to learn photography you will suffer if you don't spend a whole lot of time with film to understand how the camera works before switching over...