andephotographic
Established
Cheers.
Do you know where Mr Sweeney was based? There's a photographer called Brian Sweeney local to me but I doubt it'll be the same guy.
Do you know where Mr Sweeney was based? There's a photographer called Brian Sweeney local to me but I doubt it'll be the same guy.
batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
I don't but I doubt it's the same person. "Our" Brian Sweeney is a software engineer.
ferider
Veteran
Yuri will do an infinity collimation on his lenses which works on both Leicas and Russian clones.
For a J12 or Industar this is perfectly fine for most applications.
If you want accurate close focus, for most J8, J3, and J9 copies this will not do, you'll typically be 6 inches off at close focus. Unless you get copies from the very early 50s.
If you re-shim as suggested above, unless you change the lens' focal distance (possible but difficult), the lens will be off at infinity. Meaning you can do nice bokeh shots but have to stop down to f4 or more for typical street photos.
Consider getting a Canon 50/1.8 or Nikkor 50/2 instead, they are still affordable, much better built (no aluminum), and deliver quality close to a good Summicron - throughout the focus range.
The good thing about Yuri is that you can return if you don't like the lens. He might not accept the return if you have disassembled the lens ...
Roland.
For a J12 or Industar this is perfectly fine for most applications.
If you want accurate close focus, for most J8, J3, and J9 copies this will not do, you'll typically be 6 inches off at close focus. Unless you get copies from the very early 50s.
If you re-shim as suggested above, unless you change the lens' focal distance (possible but difficult), the lens will be off at infinity. Meaning you can do nice bokeh shots but have to stop down to f4 or more for typical street photos.
Consider getting a Canon 50/1.8 or Nikkor 50/2 instead, they are still affordable, much better built (no aluminum), and deliver quality close to a good Summicron - throughout the focus range.
The good thing about Yuri is that you can return if you don't like the lens. He might not accept the return if you have disassembled the lens ...
Roland.
batterytypehah!
Lord of the Dings
@ jett - It would help to know which body you need your lens for. If all you have available is a "bottom loader" then I would recommend you borrow one with a back that opens, i.e. Leica M or CL, late Canon, or CV Bessa. Otherwise it's very difficult to establish correct focus, since you don't have access to the film gate to put your piece of ground glass.
Alternatively, you could shim the lens mount on a cheap FSU body to the Leica standard of 28.8mm, or even buy a Bessa-L (around $100 these days, and easy to sell again afterwards).
Alternatively, you could shim the lens mount on a cheap FSU body to the Leica standard of 28.8mm, or even buy a Bessa-L (around $100 these days, and easy to sell again afterwards).
andephotographic
Established
Would it be reasonable to assume a lightly used Voigtlander 25mm Snapshot should be in good enough shaope to check the accuracy of the rangefinder? My old man is going to be near a dealer that has one tomorrow.
ferider
Veteran
The Snapshot Skopar is un-coupled, so it cann't be used as reference. Good lens though.
andephotographic
Established
Oh yeah so it is. Bugger.
Have been planning on buying one for the Bessa L I bought and then when I bought the RD I thought it could share it but maybe I'd be better with something else actually.
Have been planning on buying one for the Bessa L I bought and then when I bought the RD I thought it could share it but maybe I'd be better with something else actually.
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
On an FSU body you don't usually need to shim the lens mount if you want Leica lenses - you can adjust the rangefinder for close focus separately. Pretty much the only exceptions are prewar FED-1s and Drugs.