Arista Edu Ultra (Foma) / Rodinal (Adonal) users?

This is a great conversation. Just my 2 cents, I've been experimenting with Fomapan 100 for a couple of years now. Out of convenience, I develop semi stand for 1 hour with Adonal. I do 5 rolls in one hit. I like the tonality I get, but I would like to try D76 soon. It seems that Rodinal formulas make Fomapan a bit more gritty. Would be great to see others development examples with Foma and D76 and perhaps see some more punch or smoothness. I wonder...

Summaron 35/2.8, Fomapan 100, Adonal, Semi stand @ 60 mins
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OM Zuiko 50/1.8 (MiJ), Fomapan 100, Adonal, Semi stand @ 60 mins
13437967903_4344836e9a_b.jpg


Summicron 50/2 DR, Fomapan 100, Adonal, Semi stand @ 60 mins
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OM Zuiko 24/2.8 MC (late), Fomapan 100, Adonal, Semi stand @ 60 mins
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Juan Valdenebro said:
Thanks everybody!
In case someone does a 2 hour semistand with foma films, it would be nice to see here how fast 100, 200 and 400 can get... Until then, or until I find the way to try foma films, happy shooting!!!
Cheers,
Juan
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I'll see if I can get some examples of FOMA100 in D76. I develop mostly stock solution though. I'll get back to you guys MAYBE this evening.
 
Juan, good to see you on here again but so sorry about your fall. All my best for a good recovery are for you.

My new (cheap) go to film is Kentmere. My walk in camera store was ordering & selling Arista Premium & EDU right off the shelf. I bought both the premium & EDU but last time I was in the store they had Kentmere 400 as their (cheap) film. I haven't tried a roll yet, running through a roll now, but Kentmere film made by Harmon might be an option for you to consider.
 
Holy moly! I'm glad you are getting better!

Here is a shot with Arista/Foma 400 that I accidentally shot at 1600 because I left the camera set to the wrong ASA. I dropped it in Rodinal for I think 60 minutes with an agitation at 30. The whole roll was pretty grainy at that speed, with not a lot of shadow detail. This shot is cropped, which accentuates the grain of course.

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-Greg
 
gb hill said:
Juan, good to see you on here again but so sorry about your fall. All my best for a good recovery are for you.

My new (cheap) go to film is Kentmere. My walk in camera store was ordering & selling Arista Premium & EDU right off the shelf. I bought both the premium & EDU but last time I was in the store they had Kentmere 400 as their (cheap) film. I haven't tried a roll yet, running through a roll now, but Kentmere film made by Harmon might be an option for you to consider.
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Thank you!
Certainly an idea to consider... Especially because we can imagine that film being close to HP5+...
Cheers,
Juan
 
Juan, have a quick recovery. You are still lucky because it could be a fatal accident on a roof.

Stand development will give not less grain but less sharpness then any regular R09/Rodinal development with a minimum of agitation.

The cheapest film for me is Fomapan and it is good. The second cheapest is Rollei RPX and Rollei-Maco let produced a nice new RPX-25 film now. That RPX-25 is really good. It can even beat my favorite Fuji Acros both at iso 50. And the Fuji film prices are steep now after the first of April 2014. Again an average of 15% price increase....... :(
 
Hi Robert! Thanks for the wishes!
About stand development giving same grain but less sharpness than regular development with constant agitation, please allow me to show you an image:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/40894234@N07/6086957378/
I agree, if we think of standard development with normal agitation, it would be logical to imagine a finally more shaped grain, helping for higher sharpness in the end, compared to a more still stand development... Surprinsigly (to me) when I did a test on it, it's the stand development the one that provides higher sharpness and acutance...
About Foma100 & 200, yet I'd like to see 2 hours stand examples, to see how grain looks... Sooner or later we´ll get those examples...
Cheers,
Juan
 
gb hill said:
Juan, good to see you on here again but so sorry about your fall. All my best for a good recovery are for you.

My new (cheap) go to film is Kentmere. My walk in camera store was ordering & selling Arista Premium & EDU right off the shelf. I bought both the premium & EDU but last time I was in the store they had Kentmere 400 as their (cheap) film. I haven't tried a roll yet, running through a roll now, but Kentmere film made by Harmon might be an option for you to consider.
Click to expand...

I imagined Kentmere400, made by Harman, could be HP5+, but definitely not: it's a different film, recently designed, with different processing times, and with more grain than HP5+ and Tri-X... Yet it must be a great film... It would be nice to see how its slower brother's grain behaves with long stand development in Rodinal...

Cheers,
Juan
 
Conclusion:

Die alten Hasen haben es ja schon immer gewusst: SW-Filme fühlen sich dann am wohlsten, wenn sie im Entwickler gekippt werden. Beim Rotieren bleibt das Korn zwar fein, die Schärfe dürfte aber besser sein. Die langen Standentwicklungszeiten missfallen dem Film und die Bilder werden unscharf und grobkörnig. Also besser: Kipp cool.
 
Fotohuis said:
Follow these links:

http://www.fotografie-in-schwarz-we...0-filme-entwickeln-die-richtige-bewegung.html

Pretty in detail why Stand Development give less sharpness!

Written by a scientist, not by me. :)
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Now that's a really informative read, thanks! That is exactly my experience developing 8x10" Efke 100 in R09 (Compard 2010 version) in a Jobo 3004 drum - medium speed rotation works the best, and the times should definitely be prolonged by at least 20%. 1+25 R09 for 11 minutes gave excellent and extremely sharp negatives. I did pre-wash the anti-halo layer, though - you have to do it with Efke. Guess that changed the dilution to perhaps closer to 1+30.
 
Robert, I don't know in which circumstances a scientist did his test... But you can sometimes believe in photographers too... :) I know very well how I did my test, and the difference in acutance is not small: it's huge, and as I told you it came to me as a big surprise... And I mean I'm talking about results in the practical world. That acutance and the perception of more precise and defined borders, if you're interested, is very well documented in thousands of sites and photography schools because of the compensating effect, a direct result of less agitation. I have no idea if the scientist you mention used Rodinal, of if the increase in acutance is real with all developers: I have done it with rodinal only, and the situation is totally clear to me. Anyone can do the test...
Cheers,
Juan
 
Juan Valdenebro said:
Hi Teddy, have you pushed foma100 with adonal?
Cheers,
Juan
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Hello Juan, unfortunately I haven't really. The only way I have pushed a roll is by "pushing" a kinked, unravelled and damaged roll in frustration into the tank after hours if trying to get it in to the reel... At the end i gave up to roll it in properly... and then stand develop for 2 hours to get a result because of incorrect exposure. I got very smooth grain but with a lot of lower contrast fog effects. I saved some shots, but not really pushed.

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I love the 400 and really like the 100 as well. I've tested quite a few different developer combos on both films and find them really difficult to screw up.

400 with D-76 1:1

645af_test_0016 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr

400 with HC-110B

Polaroid 360 - 2 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr

400 with Rodinal 1:100 stand

Guitar 1 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr

400 with HC-110H + 2.5ml Rodinal

Grant 2 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr

100@200 in Diafine 3+3

Grant 1 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr

100@200 in Rodinal 1:100

sandy_020 by alanabramsphotography, on Flickr

Like I said, it's hard to screw this film up...
 
Wow, Maxwell, that's a lot, and really beautiful! Thanks for posting!
No doubt Foma films, well worked, can be first class! That's great news for all of us!
Cheers,
Juan
 
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