Calzone
Gear Whore #1
- Local time
- 10:34 AM
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2008
- Messages
- 16,871
- Location
- The Gateway To The Hudson Highlands
Cal, does the truck engine run? If so, does it have a lot of blowby when running and you remove the oil cap from the valve cover? If so or if it has low compression, it probably has at least 100,000 miles past what your odometer indicates. I bought my 1972 with 43,000 miles on the 5 digit odometer and it had sat for over 20 years. That said, through some forensic work (examining brake pads, hoses, filters, interior wear, glazing seals) I found out that it almost certainly had turned the odometer over once, so I'm saying it has 149000 on it now. The crazy barn finds do happen but more often than not, when we find a vehicle that has a 5 digit odometer, it has likely turned over at least once. It turned out that my engine is a 1984 Stuttgart motor, not original to the car, but original to the model and over a decade younger. This came down to the forensic work of doing the injection pump timing and finding that my camshaft did not match any of the series 2.2L engines from 1968 - 1976. The things to check would be the suspension and body bushings, and brake shoes. The bushings in a vehicle that sat will just be cracked while those in a vehicle that got used will both be cracked and smashed / extruded / melted / what-have-you.
Phil Forrest
Phil,
The bushings are all new because they were all replaced a year or two ago from the owner I bought the truck from. Pretty much new ball joints, trailing arms on the rear, new idler arm, tie rod ends. The engine runs, but I think the head is shot because of unleaded gas. The oil burning I think could be bad valve seals.
The bench seat has a cover, and I was expecting it to be fresher than what I saw for 61 K miles.
But the body is remarkably fresh. OEM paint that has a patina.
The engine smokes, so it could be past the piston rings , meaning engine wear, or it could be the valve seals. Engine seems to be strong, wants to run and pretty much starts even when sitting for months.
At this point I have my doubts. It could have 161K or it could have just 61K. The body condition suggests 61K though and also it was bought and rigged for a camper which kinda supports only 61K. The wear on the bench seat suggests 161K maybe.
I guess eventually I’ll find out. Pretty much what I bought was a work in progress.
The exhaust has a pulse and is not a steady stream which indicates or suggests a bad head with burnt valves. In other words I feel the puff of each cyclinder instead of a smooth stream of exhaust through a tail pipe.
I kinda know this because I was king of the $200.00-$300.00 car. I would buy old junk cars that were eye sores and would keep them running for years all high mileage over 100K. One was a 1960 Falcon 4-door. No crankcase recirculating. The crankcase had its own exhaust. At a light people would tell me my engine was smoking, but this was the crankcase vent.
This 1960 Falcon also had pneumatic wipers, so basically getting on the parkway during a downpour was flying blind because the wipers would stop under full acceleration from the drop in vacuum.
On this Falcon I lost a valve and lost a cyclinder. When I pulled the head I saw a chipped valve. I was so poor that I decided to pull the head and send it out to get a valve job. Pretty much the excuse to keep the car was that the tires were still fresh.
Another junker was a rotary engined Mazda from 1972. The pollution control included an “after burner.” When I would turn off the engine I would leave the apartment garage and get to the door of my apartment when unburned fuel would explode sounding like a gunshot. Pretty much this happened every time I shut off the engine. The thing was that I worked nights and got off work at midnight, so about 1:00 AM a gunshot likely woke people up in my apartment building.
I laugh now, but pretty much I was a dirtbag. LOL.
I would like it if the truck had an engine with a solid bottom. A valve job and a rear crankcase seal I can handle. It would be great to have 100K miles left on the engine because I know how to keep old vehicles going, and I would have time to plan to perhaps create a Rat-Rod that has a 320 HP 6500 RPM Chevy 250 Ci with a pair of 38/38 Webber twin carbs. I would upgrade the tranny to a SM465 a truck 3-speed with a granny that is bomb proof. It would be a very cool truck either way.
I know unleaded gas kills valve seals. That’s where I place my bet at this point. BTW the glove box still has the dealer sticker for the optional equipment from when the truck was ordered. I will admit though anything is possible, and perhaps there is some wishful thinking on my part. Call me a delusional artist, but if I’m right and the valve job buys me time, then no doubt that my Rat-Rod will eventually get a crazy high reving I-6 that will have a thumps idle.
Cal