New York August NYC Meet-Up

Wow, half of August is gone. Weird month.

Just moved for the month to the family old house in the mountains. Village life is very quiet and there's a different lifestyle.
The friend that pursued a PhD in Columbia already moved to NY.

Don't quite know why but during summer I tend to shoot little. One may be that light throughout the day is plenty but harsh and best light hours are falling around inconvenient times (commute or sleep, dinner) plus it can get too damn hot and muggy outside.

Cal, I am forming an image of you being "combat rigged" with those 70mm backed Linhofs. Well, it indeed was a format made as such. Korean war extraordinary issue.
The Rollei/Agfa film is interesting on being partly IR sensitive, no? IR is one of those niche things I wanted and thought but never got in.
A rather cheap IR filter makes most digitals IR worthy. IR film is rare but if the Rollei is, thought worthy.

Ironically I've been around ebay too much, and for spurious gear and accesories. I missed on some nice ND grads, and thought those would be quite interesting for color landscape work.

Should have my Rolleicord relubed as it jams and has a nice Tessar type, plus aside of camera auction hunting, use my Texas Leica more. Cropping 6x9 makes for a free Xpan.

I should get into a review/study spree for some standardized test I will take. That I am procrastinating... Instead I found the crazy and interesting world of Cryptocurrency, having a bubble now due to the Korean conflict. That must be the bankster and techie in me.
 
Prest_400 said:
Cal, I am forming an image of you being "combat rigged" with those 70mm backed Linhofs. Well, it indeed was a format made as such. Korean war extraordinary issue.
The Rollei/Agfa film is interesting on being partly IR sensitive, no? IR is one of those niche things I wanted and thought but never got in.
A rather cheap IR filter makes most digitals IR worthy. IR film is rare but if the Rollei is, thought worthy.
Click to expand...

Jorde,

I have not been shooting a lot, but I have been experimenting more.

The Rollie 400 S is extended to IR. For landscape this helps cut through the haze and adds some contrast. Under bright lighting 400S is high contrast so a compensating effect works well with this film. This is one reason I tried Rodinal 1+50, but I only got 50 ISO, nice tonality though.

I bought another 5 pack of Rollie 400S in 120 for further testing. I'll be trying DDX and Rollie Supergrain at 1+14 dilution. I should be able to get 160-200 ISO. DDX might be a good developer for diffused lighting. Anyways this is my plan: to use two different developers depending on lighting.

I'm going high ISO film also with Delta 3200. I figure I'll use the Plaubel 69W Proshift that has a 21mm FOV. The DDX will be the developer. I want to know if this will work as a subway camera at 1600 and 3200. The negatives are 6x9 so grain will be somewhat offset by negative size. Not sure how big the prints will be.

The Ferrania P30 test indicated as usual I went too far with 125 ISO. Oh-well. Film speed looks to be 80 for high contrast lighting and 50 ISO for diffused lighting. This film has a signature I love that is novel. When the Ferrania store opens in September I surely will buy some of this film. It has that 60's look and is definitely not modern. Highlights are mucho fluffy and the shadows kinda distinct. Film noir for sure. I underexposed at 125 ISO, but even so some of my better lit subjects really made negatives that popped.

I can't wait to do sheet films of P30 when available.

BTW the Bergger Panchro 400 looks to like Pyro developers. I'll avoid Pyro until I have a proper darkroom.

Cal
 
Cal,
If you use the use the Plaubel 69W Proshift that has a 21mm and Delta 3200, what sort of Shutter speed and f stops are you looking at.
Some interesting comments about Delta 3200 @ http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php...a-3200-ie1000-in-tetenal-ultrafin-1-20.84726/
And, so more conversation at https://www.flickr.com/groups/msm/discuss/72157594377511125/
Apparently Ilford has an ISO range on the film from 400 to 12300 (the digitaltruth chart shows speeds up to 25000) . using Ilfotec DD-X 1+4 for the full range. The only thing that changes is the times. They show some other developers that work for the full range, in the Ilford processing chart. (https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file_id/1873/product_id/683/)
D76 stock has almost the same times as the DD-X 1+4. Digitaltruth chart shows Ilford Delta 3200 ProUltrafin1+1032008.58.5
20C
What other film have you used DD-x with?
Steve
 
I always say I should go hardcore B&W for a while. I just keep postponing that towards when I move to a city or such... Next year might have another stint in college and would try to get community and darkroom time.
Just thought to heck with enlargers going just to 6x7, I'll just crop. Curiously the US seems to have more 2x3 enlargers whereas in Europe the trend was to get up to 6x7.

Plan would be to get the gig around Fomapan (cheeap) or HP5.
Ilford actually has got some nice and homogeneous pricing. HP5 in 120 there is for 4.2€ a roll.
(Gotta save up for some whenever it comes SE Asia expedition or Cuba Visit, I tell myself)

I think that with Delta rated at 3200 you should be around 1/60 f4 on brighter NY nighttime. The stark environ of the city just matches and calls for "noir".
I actually enjoying night photography quite a bit. It's a different dimension in a way.
 
dshfoto said:
Cal,
If you use the use the Plaubel 69W Proshift that has a 21mm and Delta 3200, what sort of Shutter speed and f stops are you looking at.
Some interesting comments about Delta 3200 @ http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php...a-3200-ie1000-in-tetenal-ultrafin-1-20.84726/
And, so more conversation at https://www.flickr.com/groups/msm/discuss/72157594377511125/
Apparently Ilford has an ISO range on the film from 400 to 12300 (the digitaltruth chart shows speeds up to 25000) . using Ilfotec DD-X 1+4 for the full range. The only thing that changes is the times. They show some other developers that work for the full range, in the Ilford processing chart. (https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file_id/1873/product_id/683/)
D76 stock has almost the same times as the DD-X 1+4. Digitaltruth chart shows Ilford Delta 3200 ProUltrafin1+1032008.58.5
20C
What other film have you used DD-x with?
Steve
Click to expand...

Steve,

The challenge will be dealing with F5.6 as my largest aperture. I also have a Leica table top tripod with a head and a monopod to use to help steady the Plaubel.

My Tech V Baby Linhof has a 28mm FOV in 6x7 and I have a 120 roll film back. The Zeiss 53mm Biogon has a F4.5 as its biggest aperture. For sure I will be taking some wild shots that are plenty raw, grainy and kinda wild. I guess that's what I'm trying to express. Pure grit in a painterly manner.

One of the reasons I chose DDX is because it is useful with other films that I have laying around in my fridge like Delta 400 in 120. I have never used DDX and that is the point. For experimenting I like liquid developers because they are fast and easy.

I'm going to try Rollie 400S one more time with Diafine. I love the tonality. My results suggest 50-80 film speed, but the results are HDR like. The IR coverage bumps up the clarity I feel. I saw some reference to Agfapan 200 Aerophot in Diafine using 5+5 like Acros, so I will give it one more attempt. In blue skies I saw artifacts of uneven development, but it might be bromide staining. The shadow detail is amazing.

Seems like the 400 ISO film speed rating of 400S is a gross exaggeration. Many reports of it being only a 160-200 ISO film that is only achievable with certain developers. If DDX gets me 160 ISO I'll be mucho happy.

This Saturday I am free to shoot and test develop. I'll have more negatives soon.

I also have Joe's roll of Tri-X developed that I dipped in Diafine.

Cal
 
Prest_400 said:
I always say I should go hardcore B&W for a while. I just keep postponing that towards when I move to a city or such... Next year might have another stint in college and would try to get community and darkroom time.
Just thought to heck with enlargers going just to 6x7, I'll just crop. Curiously the US seems to have more 2x3 enlargers whereas in Europe the trend was to get up to 6x7.

Plan would be to get the gig around Fomapan (cheeap) or HP5.
Ilford actually has got some nice and homogeneous pricing. HP5 in 120 there is for 4.2€ a roll.
(Gotta save up for some whenever it comes SE Asia expedition or Cuba Visit, I tell myself)

I think that with Delta rated at 3200 you should be around 1/60 f4 on brighter NY nighttime. The stark environ of the city just matches and calls for "noir".
I actually enjoying night photography quite a bit. It's a different dimension in a way.
Click to expand...

Jorde,

I say load up the truck with only one film and only use one developer until you master it like a deadly Kung-Fu move. In other words go totally crazy and all the way in an extreme manner where "crazy is good."

At this point Tri-X and Acros in Diafine has been worked through for me. Now I need to do more crazy again with something new to obsess about.

IMHO this is how you develop your own style with your own signature. If you are OCD in this manner great things happen.

Cal
 
I'm sending out some prints to my friend Justin in Seattle for review. These are only 12x18 images on 17x22 that I consider work prints that I've assembled to create a "workbook" of prints to use as a folio.

One image is that panoramic shot of the Domino Sugar Refinery taken from the Williamsburg Bridge; another is a street shot of a fashionable girl giving my camera a seductive look; and another is a pretty girl making a selfie on a rooftop.

My friend Justin has a 2500 square foot retail store. When I was in Seattle he showed me two spaces where two of my photos will be displayed among a few motorcycles and fashionable edgy urbanwear. The prints are only for review at this point, and the follow through will be some of my monster sized shots on permanent display in a cool boutique. The deal is I supply the prints, but Justin is responsible for the framing.

Anyways I'll getting my work out in public display for exposure, and if everything works out I likely will do a one-person show in the remaining 4000 square foot "event space" that was formally a bank.

Cal
 
Cal,
Because you are using Rollei -- For what ever it is worth. I just developed a 1 roll each of Kodak TMX100 and Rollei RPX100 in Ultrafin 1+20, 12 min - with a 5 min presoak. Strangely the print from 120 film liner on the RPX100 shows faintly on the neg (enough to render them useless). Wonder if this has happened to others?
Because of this this I will no longer use any Rollei 120 film. Thought you should know.
 
dshfoto said:
Any one have experince with Zeiss Super Ikonta B's like a 532/16? Been thinking about getting one of these folders.
Click to expand...

Wonderful cameras - despite seeing some great results, I never plumped for one, but a very fine (and cheaper) alternative is a Mamiya Six folder. Excellent optics in very compact folder.
 
dshfoto said:
Any one have experince with Zeiss Super Ikonta B's like a 532/16? Been thinking about getting one of these folders.
Click to expand...

I and very happy with. I used it a few years ago during my NYC visit. Small, light weight and excellent optic. Here a link to an example shot on Delta 400
rob
 
dshfoto said:
Cal,
Because you are using Rollei -- For what ever it is worth. I just developed a 1 roll each of Kodak TMX100 and Rollei RPX100 in Ultrafin 1+20, 12 min - with a 5 min presoak. Strangely the print from 120 film liner on the RPX100 shows faintly on the neg (enough to render them useless). Wonder if this has happened to others?
Because of this this I will no longer use any Rollei 120 film. Thought you should know.
Click to expand...

Steve,

Every film has its good, the bad, and the ugly.

Many of the Rollie films have a clear base that promotes "light-piping." This is what I suspect happened to your film. Basically light is easily picked up through the films edges and then like a fiber optic the light fogs the film. With films that have a clear base the positive is this makes it better for scanning, but extra care to load and unloud in subdued lighting has exaggerated importance.

Even indoors under subdued lighting I see tell tale signs of this light leaking.

Then this light piping gets compounded by Rollie films that have extended sensitivity to IR that exacerbates the problem. I definitely would avoid loading Rollie films outdoors. You really have to load under subdued lighting.

The nice thing about the clear base and the extended sensitivity is the extra shadow detail and how the pollution and haze gets cut through. Sometimes these films are excessively contrasty and one must tone down the contrast. The only camera that has multicoated glass is my Plaubel, and all others are single coated.

One must use bigger dilutions for contrast compensation, D 23, Diafine or some compensating developer to tame contrast, but for diffused lighting Rollie films have the punch to make the negatives pop.

I am drawn to Rollie 400S due to is cheap pricing in 70mm.

Also I think there is a possibility that your film had x-ray fogging that would explain the printing getting printed through the entire roll.

Cal
 
Cal,
you said, "One of the reasons I chose DDX is because it is useful with other films that I have laying around in my fridge like Delta 400 in 120. I have never used DDX and that is the point. For experimenting I like liquid developers because they are fast and easy." I use one of the Inkjet Mall syringes to measure out my liquid developers for small batch development. It works great to get the exact mix.
Steve
 
Cal,
Thanks for the info on Diafine. I am going to retry Diafine with Ilford HP5 & FP4. with HP5 at 800 ISO and FP4 at 250 as starting points. Dev @ 4min in each A & B. I just want to know if you "presoak" or not? Instructions seem to say do not presoak.
Thanks,
Steve
 
dshfoto said:
Cal,
Thanks for the info on Diafine. I am going to retry Diafine with Ilford HP5 & FP4. with HP5 at 800 ISO and FP4 at 250 as starting points. Dev @ 4min in each A & B. I just want to know if you "presoak" or not? Instructions seem to say do not presoak.
Thanks,
Steve
Click to expand...

You don't presoak with Diafine for any film. If you do, you end up diluting solution A, which is a no no
 
dshfoto said:
Cal,
Thanks for the info on Diafine. I am going to retry Diafine with Ilford HP5 & FP4. with HP5 at 800 ISO and FP4 at 250 as starting points. Dev @ 4min in each A & B. I just want to know if you "presoak" or not? Instructions seem to say do not presoak.
Thanks,
Steve
Click to expand...

Steve,

Don't be too aggressive with film speed. No presoak recommended.

FP4 Box speed is 125 ISO, but I shoot it at 160 ISO. This has become my favorite film for 135 and 120. Using Ilford's ULF program FP4 is available in 70mm, 2x3, 6.5x9 and 4x5.

HP5 is not the best in Diafine and I like Tri-X better at 650 ISO. Also for HP5 I would also shoot it at 650 ISO. Tri-X is just smoother and has finer grain.

Expect negatives that have an element of HDR with added shadow detail.

Since I under-aggitate I do 4+4, but this is for negatives that I purposely create for wet printing large. 3+3 likely would be better for negatives that will be scanned.

Thanks for the roll of P30. I loaded my Wetzlar M6 and exposed already 24 shots at 80 ISO (box speed) while walking to work. I'll develop Saturday dipping in Diafine.

"Maggie" will be heading to Montreal to be publically interviewed for their Fashion Week. The journalist performing the interview, Lolita, did an article that ran in a Montreal Newspaper on Maggie before she started her blog.

Near the end of August is when the blog started so this invite is kinda like "Montreal Revisted" to celebrate a three year anniversary.

Cal
 
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