B/W film recommendation for NYC Halloween Parade?

Waterman100

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Hi, I am a recent born-again film user and haven't used B/W film since photography class in high school 20 years ago. I plan to shoot at this weekend's Halloween Parade in NYC, and I wonder if any of you could recommend a suitable 35mm film to use.

I should be taking shots of both the paraders and spectators w/ no flash. I'd be using a 40/f2 Rokkor and a 90/f4 Elmar. I don't have the equipment to develop films myself - and I've forgotten how anyways - so I'd have the lab do it (most likely Manhattan Color Labs) and would consider pushing the film if necessary. The negatives will be scanned with a recently purchased Nikon Coolscan V ED.

Any thoughts?
 
NOT the Pan-X that I used at NYC Halloween Parade in 1983...:bang:

5101610948_f4068d0f76_b.jpg


And, I just discovered two rolls of it that expired in 1985.
 
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I would shoot Tri-X and push it to 1250 or 1600, developing it in Diafine. If the lab doesn't use Diafine (don't see why they would), they could push it in XTOL, which is a very common developer.
See this thread: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-43985.html
I wouldn't bother with TMZ or Delta 3200; they're much more expensive and they won't necessarily give you better results in the parade.
 
Thanks for all the quick responses

Thanks for all the quick responses

Wow.... Thanks to all for the quick responses.

Does anyone know the differences between Tri-X and T-Max?
 
Forget the 90/4 if it's at night.

Push Tri-X, in Diafine (EI 1250) or in something else like XTOL (to 800 or 1600). Or use TMZ (T-Max 3200) or Delta 3200. Rate them at 1600 or 3200, the lower the better. Grain WILL BE bigger than the Tri-X, but you'll pick up at least a true stop of speed over the Tri-X, so more details in the shadows.

It basically comes down to that. Do you prefer shadow detail or fine grain?

In my opinion, those who say "TMZ is the ****!" tend to value shadow detail more and don't mind the increase in grain. Those who say "Push Tri-X!" don't feel the increase in grain/cost is worth the gain in shadow detail, and/or like the pushed look (contrasty). Neither is right or wrong, either in a given situation or all the time. I personally love TMZ, but have shot plenty of pushed Tri-X when it felt like a better fit.
 
Tmax 3200 exposed at E.I. 1600 and developed in Xtol 1:3 has very fine grain compared to the sand on glass gritty look of Delta 3200. Which isn't bad with the right subject, time, place, etc. Just different. You pays your money and takes your pick.

Pushed Tri-X for that traditional David Douglas Duncan in Viet Nam look.
 
ps: It's Halloween. After sunset. Mixed light. Costumes. Am I the only one who thinks that pushed E-6 film should be in the mix too? Assuming there are labs that still push E-6.
 
ps: It's Halloween. After sunset. Mixed light. Costumes. Am I the only one who thinks that pushed E-6 film should be in the mix too? Assuming there are labs that still push E-6.

Have to agree. I was about to suggest Provia 400x pushed to 1600. Funky results, but I like them for the right subject and the parade is one of them.

Any of the big labs in Manhattan will be able to push E6, so no worries.
 
Perhaps I'll see you there. Look for a tall thin Asian with a ponytail and an arrogant chin beard shooting a Nikon F3 rigged with a 58/1.2 Noct-Nikkor and motordrive allong with a M6 with a 75 Lux.

I'll be shooting HP5 at 650 and Tri-X at 800, but first I'll be using 5 rolls of expired Kodachrome 64 that someone gave me. The color shifts (magenta?) could be interesting.

BTW it helps to get there early to recognoiter to locate the staging area. Events like this often are overwelming and it is best to situate yourself and get aquainted before the parade begins, especially because of all the crowds. Some of my best shots were before the event started, when I shot the Mermaid Parade.

I'm going to concentrate my shooting on the late afternoon, dusk and twilight.

Good luck.

Cal
 
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Push Tri-X, in Diafine (EI 1250) or in something else like XTOL (to 800 or 1600). Or use TMZ (T-Max 3200) or Delta 3200. Rate them at 1600 or 3200, the lower the better.

I feel embarrassed to be asking this question, but here I go:

If I were to follow Tim's suggestion and use Tri-X, do I meter at 800 or 1600 when shooting? Or do I meter at the film's 400 rating? 😱
 
Yes, you would set your meter to 800 (or 1600) and effectively underexpose your film. Then in the developing stage, you develop the film by using the times for 800 (or 1600), which overdevelops it, pushing the contrast higher. This has the effect of pushing up the underexposed midtones and highlights higher, making the look properly exposed. The bottom stop or two of shadows that you normally get will be missing though.

If you meter at 400, then just develop it normally. If there is enough light to shoot it at 400, I would do that instead of pushing. But that's just me.
 
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