batteries on ql17?

[jano]

Thanks to this (four-letter-word)ing website, I've just spent the last three hours reading about more cameras, and I feel GAS coming on. Ugh. Thinking about the QL17. I have a few on my fleabay watch list, but maybe I should put a WTB thread here instead.

Anyway, I found this website which wrote the ql17 takes some battery that cannot be purchased in the US.. ? (assume for a second I prefer using in-camera meter for now)

 

[garythegit]

Rubbish, there are many replacement ones you can get, your options are:

Use a 1.5v SR44 silver oxide and adjust the iso meter to compensate for the extra voltage to ensure right exposures
Using an adapter that you can get off the bay which can reduce the voltage a bit more to 1.35v
Using a 1.4v Zinc-air hearing aid battery

Just do a search on this forum for ql17 batteries and you'll see a million posts on the subject! 🙂

Good luck!

 

[nwcanonman]

The original PX625 mercury cells (1.35 volt, that many cameras used 30 years ago) are no longer being made anywhere that I know of, but as Gary points out there are a number of alternatives available today.
Some of us saw the end of the mercury cells coming and stored away a dozen or so, of the long-lasting mercury cells (Te-He!).

 

[jano]

Hi, thanks, I had done a quick search first, but walked away confused. Guess I'll just give it a shot once I pick up a camera 🙂

 

[dmr]

Anyway, I found this website which wrote the ql17 takes some battery that cannot be purchased in the US.. ? (assume for a second I prefer using in-camera meter for now)

This is very unscientific, but if you think of the meter reading as only a suggestion on how to expose ... ...

The only battery I've ever used in the QL17 GIII is the "wrong" 1.5v battery. However, the error in measurement seems to be so small that it can be ignored for all practical purposes.

I know I've told this story here a few times. I compared the GIII to the Pentax K1000 (which always seems to give the correct exposure) it is extremely close in low light conditions and slightly overexposes (1/2 stop at most) in bright sunlight.

For the real-world test, bracketing with Kodachrome, the slides exposed at what the meter suggested were consistently the best.