ferider
Veteran
I don't think I can justify an M7 purchase to my wife at the moment ...
Hmm. You've got what we call in computer science a 2 body problem
If you want to buy budget consciously, let me make a completely different recommendation:
Get a good Leica M2 and light meter. A good user will set you back about as much as a new R3*, and you get everything a Leica can ever give you
And later, add a Bessa, or an M7, since you'll need a second body at some point.
Finder
Veteran
I am not sure how you came down to these two cameras. I would think a ZI or Hexar RF better than both.
tedbare
Newbie
I have both, and both are excellent cameras, but different (predictable answer, this is ...)
If you take the M6TTL with 0.85 viewfinder, it comes closest to the R3A, but the R3A is indeed a more modern camera, and I prefer it's 1:1 viewfinder. It has faster top-shutter speed, metal shutter, costs new half of a M6 S/H, and you can use it in AE or manual. The M6 is more quite and has a more solid feel, but the R3A is a very sturdy camera too.
Some then will say it's battery dependant, and it is, but a set of batteries 1) goes a very long time and 2) weights next to nothing, so you can easily have a spare with you.
So, from the utilitarian viewpoint, take the R3A and have lots of fun. If you find yourself still wanting a Leica afterwards, you can buy it later (they will still be around) and you will still keep using the R3A often.
Just my 2 cents, and probably this will not pass undisputed![]()
+1
I have both. Typically I pick up the R3A before the M6.
P
Peter S
Guest
I once started with a R3a and really liked the viewfinder and the 40mm frames (had it married with a 40 rokkor). It got me hooked on rangefinders and when I found a good deal on our version of Craigslist I went out to look at a M6 Classic with 50summi and 90elmarit. When I felt the camera in my hands for the first time, I fell in love, bought it and sold the R3A. Nothing wrong with the R3a, but the M6 (Classic, don't bother with ttl) is simply nicer, sturdier camera. I really like the viewfinder of the R3a though, but did experience some rangefinder alignment problems. Would also wait for a M6 in the classifieds here, Leica's tend to keep better resale value.
Good luck and welcome to the club.
Good luck and welcome to the club.
ashrafazlan
Established
A used M6 is pretty cheap these days, shouldn't cost you more than a new R3a+40mm Nokton. I agree with most though in that you should try both first, and also a few others as well (Ikon, etc..but that's pretty hard to find used)
Remember, it's not all about IQ
At the end of the day if the camera doesn't feel comfortable to hold then you won't enjoy shooting with it.
Remember, it's not all about IQ
bobby_novatron
Photon Collector
Much thanks to everyone (again) for their responses. To an earlier post re: M2 with light meter -- yes, I've thought of that option. I would almost dare to say that I could do without the light meter ... I've been getting lots of practice with my Soviet rangefinders (Kiev 4a) so my "Sunny 16" guesswork is actually getting quite good.
I feel that the auto metering would be a nice back-up for difficult lighting conditions.
My only hesitation about going the M2 route is coming from nervousness about spending significant $$$ on a 1950's camera ... unless I could find a really nice copy that's been CLA'd and treated well by a good owner.
Then again, my Kiev 4a works like a damn and it never saw the equivalent of a Soviet CLA in its life.
Main difference being: the Kiev 4a cost me $50.
I feel that the auto metering would be a nice back-up for difficult lighting conditions.
My only hesitation about going the M2 route is coming from nervousness about spending significant $$$ on a 1950's camera ... unless I could find a really nice copy that's been CLA'd and treated well by a good owner.
Then again, my Kiev 4a works like a damn and it never saw the equivalent of a Soviet CLA in its life.
Main difference being: the Kiev 4a cost me $50.
gliderbee
Well-known
I think I understand what Stefan was saying. It's not about the portion of the viewfinder blocked by a lens but the possibility to see through the blocked part as if the lens was transparent.
Exactly.
Stefan.
jamiewakeham
Long time lurker
What lenses are you thinking of using? That, for me, would be a major factor in this decision; you want to get the right framelines for a start, but you also might be swayed towards a Leica for its greater EBL if you're planning on shooting fast lenses wide open. If something like a 90/2 or 50/1 (or even a 50/1.4 wide-open and close up) is in your plans then I'd go for a 0.72 or even a 0.85 M6.
Cheers
Jamie
Cheers
Jamie
Cheers
Jamie
Cheers
Jamie
tonys
Member
Bobby,
Go for an M5. Better meter than the M6 and better built camera all round.
Cheaper too than an M6.
Go for an M5. Better meter than the M6 and better built camera all round.
Cheaper too than an M6.
tj01
Well-known
Don't you know, all roads lead to an M2 
bobby_novatron
Photon Collector
Thanks to everyone for their input. After much deliberation (and angst) I decided to purchase a Bessa R3A through Cameraquest. I got a mint condition Nokton 50mm F1.1 lens (used) and a B3A body for about the same price as an M5 or M6 body alone.
I've decided that there will be a Leica in my future, but for the time being I'm going to enjoy honing my skills on this nice Bessa / Voigtlander combo.
I've decided that there will be a Leica in my future, but for the time being I'm going to enjoy honing my skills on this nice Bessa / Voigtlander combo.
bobby_novatron
Photon Collector
TonyS: you're right, the M5 seems to be a bit of a sleeper. I will also have to keep that model in mind.
Then again like tj01 says, maybe there's a M2 in my future...
Then again like tj01 says, maybe there's a M2 in my future...
soelin
Member
Happy shooting. In my experience, everyone who started with a Bessa ended up getting a Leica.I got a mint condition Nokton 50mm F1.1 lens (used) and a B3A body for about the same price as an M5 or M6 body alone.
J. Borger
Well-known
Happy shooting. In my experience, everyone who started with a Bessa ended up getting a Leica.![]()
Yepp..... a fact of life
mathomas
Well-known
Hmm. You've got what we call in computer science a 2 body problem
If you want to buy budget consciously, let me make a completely different recommendation:
Get a good Leica M2 and light meter. A good user will set you back about as much as a new R3*, and you get everything a Leica can ever give youI'm only half kidding.
And later, add a Bessa, or an M7, since you'll need a second body at some point.
I strongly second this suggestion (was going to make it myself), if you can find an M2 you like. Going one step further, buy an M2 and a Bessa, and you'll have the best of both worlds for the price of the M6. If you make a decent deal on the M2 and decide you don't like it, then you can sell it with no loss (the Bessa is a different matter).
I love my M2. I feel as though one of your own will give you the legitimate "Leica experience" for relatively little money. All it's missing is the meter (and I honestly don't miss that in 80% of situations). This is coming from an M8 shooter.
Best of luck, this sort of choice is a nice problem to have...
mathomas
Well-known
While I use an M4... in the past I've used an M6. Nothing beats having the meter built in in my opinion.
ElectroWNED
Well-known
Probably can't go wrong with either one, but I'm sure you'll like the Bessa you got.
Should we start taking bets on how long it takes to step up to the Leica?
Should we start taking bets on how long it takes to step up to the Leica?
mojobebop
Well-known
m6
m6
m6. no comparrison
m6
m6. no comparrison
bobby_novatron
Photon Collector
I'm already salivating over a M2 + Elmar 2.8/50 that's being auctioned on the *bay, and I haven't even received the Bessa yet! God help me...
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