raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
hi hyokjae,
One of the problems of rodinal S.D is that you can get inconsistent results.
i have had very consistent development of rodinal stand development with XP2- Super. I use it for 30mins or 1 hour, gentle agitation for first minute then let it rest for the rest of the time. The pictures come out very fine grained.
cheers!
One of the problems of rodinal S.D is that you can get inconsistent results.
i have had very consistent development of rodinal stand development with XP2- Super. I use it for 30mins or 1 hour, gentle agitation for first minute then let it rest for the rest of the time. The pictures come out very fine grained.
cheers!
AdQuo
Newbie
Ok but always with 400 iso and upper, isnt it? Would it be possible with lower ISO?
JayGannon
Well-known
Gonna try PanF exposed at unknown ISO (Baaaad record keeping, Im guessing around 160) for about an hour in 1:100. Will be interesting to see how it comes out.
sniki
Well-known
I suppose you mean how to manage standing development for a 400 film rated at 200; well, in this case I think you'd better soup in Rodinal 1:200 for 1 hour.
ferider
Veteran
Similar to Juan I moved back from stand-development to 1:100 Rodinal for 20 minutes, gentle inversion every 3 minutes (to reduce grain). I do this for all my films (APX/RR 100, Neopan 400 and Neopan 1600) and adjust "development" via exposure/ISO. I can mix and match different films in the same tank. 20' is nice, I get done faster.
Tap water is OK as a stop bath. Wash extensively with tap water after fixer and before final (flo) wash. 5' fixing is usually OK (I use an Ilford rapid fixer).
Tap water is OK as a stop bath. Wash extensively with tap water after fixer and before final (flo) wash. 5' fixing is usually OK (I use an Ilford rapid fixer).
Last edited:
Mablo
Well-known
In my opinion Rodinal 1 hour stand development is best suited for slow and medium fast films, From ISO 25 to 100/125. I would always use a 2 reel tank or larger. For a 500ml tank and one roll of film I use 5ml of Rodinal and 7ml for two rolls.
For 400 speed films I don't particularly like to use 1 hour stand development because I can get better and more consistent results by using a bit more agitation. The 'semi stand' 20min recipe Ferider is referring to is very good.
AdQuo
Newbie
Hi, Sniki
What I wonder if it is possible is to do a stand development with Ilford FP$ 125 ISO: The reason is because in hot summer its difficult to get cold water to bring developer temperature down to 20ºC (In my case).
What I wonder if it is possible is to do a stand development with Ilford FP$ 125 ISO: The reason is because in hot summer its difficult to get cold water to bring developer temperature down to 20ºC (In my case).
sanmich
Veteran
Lynn
in your post you state that "Tri-X in Rodinal 1:100 produces the finest grained high-speed film I have ever seen, far better than Delta 3200 or TMax 3200..."
I'm not sure I get it. Isn't it obvious that a 400 ISO film will give finer grain than a 1000~1600 ISO film?
Or maybe you mean that SD is pushing the film to higher ISO rating??
AdQuo
Newbie
Hi. I tried Stand Development with Ilford Fp4 + Rodinal 1/100 1 hour. When i Took the film out of the tank it had a purple tone. This is the second time this happens to me; first time the film had a milky tone... I don´t know what is the problem; any idea?
Thanks!
Thanks!
sniki
Well-known
Purple? Strange indeed, the only film that in standing development comes out with a strong purple base is - according to my experience - Ilford XP2; anyway fully printable.
AdQuo
Newbie
Thanks, Iniki.
I will try again and see if it is repeated.
Nevertheless, do you stimate the percentage 1/100 Rodinal por FP4 for one hour is right?
Thank you very much!
I will try again and see if it is repeated.
Nevertheless, do you stimate the percentage 1/100 Rodinal por FP4 for one hour is right?
Thank you very much!
sniki
Well-known
Following standing development technique - 1/100 Rodinal for one hour - is correct.
AdQuo
Newbie
Hi, Sniki.
I tried a stand developmente last night. I used Ilford FP4 125ISO and Rodinal, 1/100. My kank is 500 ml so 5ml Rodinal and 495ml of water durin One hour moving the first minute and quiet for 59.
Finally the film looked as if it were half developed... :$... Any idea about what I did wrong?
I tried a stand developmente last night. I used Ilford FP4 125ISO and Rodinal, 1/100. My kank is 500 ml so 5ml Rodinal and 495ml of water durin One hour moving the first minute and quiet for 59.
Finally the film looked as if it were half developed... :$... Any idea about what I did wrong?
timor
Well-known
Adquo; tonning of your negs might be an outcome of old/used-up fixer. I've seen that.
Hyakjae; how you can see rodinal is something of a cult object among photographers. Rodinal is cheap and effective and simple to use. I would suggest, that you start with normal development first and establish you own time for lower dilutions like 1/25 before you move to high dilutions and long times. There is no point in too long times, the emulsion will be swollen too much and this isn't a good thing at all. If you have your time for 1/25 go to 1/100 and develop for 4x the time. After that there will be very little action as rodinal will be almost gone. Much longer time will not help with underexposed film. "Stand development" stands for a lack of agitation during development. Usually a bad thing, but in case of rodinal there is some magic. (Hence the "cult" thing.) Anyway Agfa suggest at least 10ml of concentrate per full (36) roll of film in the solution for proper development. Now word of caution. If you have a bottle of original rodinal it is few years old and that's fine. It will be fine for the next 50 years as long as is unopened. Once you let the air in it will oxidize . At slower rate then anything else, but neverless. If you slow with using it up, and with rodinal usually is the case, the concentrate will loose the strength. Your ratio of concentration and time will become invalid, negs will look like underexposed. Happend to me. Since then I distribute whole bottle at once in 5ml portions using medical vacutainers and use a syringe to remove the air.
Good luck to you.
Hyakjae; how you can see rodinal is something of a cult object among photographers. Rodinal is cheap and effective and simple to use. I would suggest, that you start with normal development first and establish you own time for lower dilutions like 1/25 before you move to high dilutions and long times. There is no point in too long times, the emulsion will be swollen too much and this isn't a good thing at all. If you have your time for 1/25 go to 1/100 and develop for 4x the time. After that there will be very little action as rodinal will be almost gone. Much longer time will not help with underexposed film. "Stand development" stands for a lack of agitation during development. Usually a bad thing, but in case of rodinal there is some magic. (Hence the "cult" thing.) Anyway Agfa suggest at least 10ml of concentrate per full (36) roll of film in the solution for proper development. Now word of caution. If you have a bottle of original rodinal it is few years old and that's fine. It will be fine for the next 50 years as long as is unopened. Once you let the air in it will oxidize . At slower rate then anything else, but neverless. If you slow with using it up, and with rodinal usually is the case, the concentrate will loose the strength. Your ratio of concentration and time will become invalid, negs will look like underexposed. Happend to me. Since then I distribute whole bottle at once in 5ml portions using medical vacutainers and use a syringe to remove the air.
Good luck to you.
timor
Well-known
Adquo, when did you open your bottle of rodinal ? Take a look at my post above.
sniki
Well-known
The diluition is ok - anyway, at these values, for simplicity you can make 5ml Rodinal plus 500 of water; regarding the quantity, when developing one 135 film roll alone use just 3 ml Rodinal in 300 ml of water; another point is the temperature: try to get the solution temp. at the same value of ambient, in order to minimize solution convection motion during process. Of course this is reasonably valid when applied in the 18-25 pantermical range.
Just one last point; how does your last film developed-markings appear: faded, normal or bold?
Just one last point; how does your last film developed-markings appear: faded, normal or bold?
atlcruiser
Part Yeti
I have been workng the hell out of my rodinal stash!
Fellow RFF member Juan went above and beynd to help me in the right direction with the rodinal; thanks again Juan!
Using what he showed me+ my own experiments I think the key to rodinal is getting the correct exposure starting with the film speed, coupling that with the correct film speed based on the light conditions and using the right amount of time in rodinal to match condition 1+2.
Yesterday I got a new mamiya 7. I needed to try it out. I shot one roll of tri-x at 200 very soft light rodinal for 22 minutes, another roll of tri-x at 100 outdoors in very harsh light rodinal for 15 minutes and a final roll in/out doors in very low light at 800 rodinal for 30 minutes.
All 3 rolls have about the same density on the negatives
Grain is about the same on all of them. I dont know what it does but keeping the rodinal at 18' seems to make the grain almost go away.
For a beginner....this is what i did...good old d76 1-1 for 9.25-10.25 minutes based on film speed. Cheap, fast and gets you a very quick feel for times and how that will effect the negatives.
below is arista 400@1600 rodinal 150 for 1 hour. Who says you cant push :0 ?
Fellow RFF member Juan went above and beynd to help me in the right direction with the rodinal; thanks again Juan!
Using what he showed me+ my own experiments I think the key to rodinal is getting the correct exposure starting with the film speed, coupling that with the correct film speed based on the light conditions and using the right amount of time in rodinal to match condition 1+2.
Yesterday I got a new mamiya 7. I needed to try it out. I shot one roll of tri-x at 200 very soft light rodinal for 22 minutes, another roll of tri-x at 100 outdoors in very harsh light rodinal for 15 minutes and a final roll in/out doors in very low light at 800 rodinal for 30 minutes.
All 3 rolls have about the same density on the negatives
Grain is about the same on all of them. I dont know what it does but keeping the rodinal at 18' seems to make the grain almost go away.
For a beginner....this is what i did...good old d76 1-1 for 9.25-10.25 minutes based on film speed. Cheap, fast and gets you a very quick feel for times and how that will effect the negatives.
below is arista 400@1600 rodinal 150 for 1 hour. Who says you cant push :0 ?
skibeerr
Well-known
IT WORKS!
You guys got me sofar, used Tri-x 320 at 320 one hour at 20 c Rodinal 1+100
Great results could print straight on grad2 paper.
Wim
You guys got me sofar, used Tri-x 320 at 320 one hour at 20 c Rodinal 1+100
Great results could print straight on grad2 paper.
Wim
atlcruiser
Part Yeti
Steve Karr
Film tank shaker
Hi everyone,
So inspired by this thread I have been working with KB25 and Rod 1:100 stand.
My film comes out with what looks like a 2 stop push. What gives? I have run 3 rolls in 3 runs and the same.
I even shot some with a slate & gray chart to see...
2 stops.
Am I shaking too much at the start? The temp is a cool 70 thru the whole thing??
Thanks!
Steve
So inspired by this thread I have been working with KB25 and Rod 1:100 stand.
My film comes out with what looks like a 2 stop push. What gives? I have run 3 rolls in 3 runs and the same.
I even shot some with a slate & gray chart to see...
2 stops.
Am I shaking too much at the start? The temp is a cool 70 thru the whole thing??
Thanks!
Steve