Bessa R vs. R2

climbing_vine

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Hi all. After spending 18 months with my Hi-Matics and etc, which I love, I've decided to make the jump to interchangeable-lens rangefinders. Unless you count the Argus C3, which I don't. 😉

I've been reading here and elsewhere for months, gone over sites such as cameraquest in detail over and over (my wife wonders how I can stare at the same pages so many times). As a newlywed, most of my money is going into house savings and towards travel (which we figure we better do as much as possible before we have a house and eventually kids to take care of). So, at least to start, my budget is capped at probably about $400.

I shoot mostly low light, post 6PM in the city both indoors and out. I prefer a 35 for my go-to lens, but a 50 is workable; it's more important that I get something as fast as possible, within reason.

I'd considered getting a Kiev or a Fed (from Yuri or Oleg, most likely) and something like the 35/1.7 Ultron. However, the more I think about it--and having been impressed by some results posted here from the Jupiter-3--I'm leaning towards reversing that idea, with a modern body and a Soviet lens to start with.

My reasoning has two main points:
1. A modern body will (hopefully) have the advantage in ergonomics and reliability. Wind levers, better grip material, easier film loading, things like that. It'll just be more comfortable, and therefore more efficient and more enjoyable, to shoot with. I already have some classics that I enjoy shooting with (and rebuilding) when I'm in that sort of mood, and I'm leaning towards going the other direction here.
2. Outside I rarely use a meter but I often do indoors (my brain doesn't handle sunny-16 very well in artificial light, somewhow). I often shoot on walkabout with no bag (often in places where even a small bag would be prohibitively cumbersome), just a few rolls of film and a spare battery in my pocket, so carrying another accessory on my person often is not attractive. So, a built-in meter is a non-essential but very nice thing to have.

With that and my budget in mind I'm leaning towards either a Bessa R or R2, depending on how much I decide to spend on this vs. Christmas presents. 😉 So to those who have handled and preferably used both, does the R2 feel that much better in the hands? How do they each handel? I can just barely fit an R2, a J3, and a M/screw adapter into my budget. May need to go for a 'user' condition R2 from Ebay to make it work. On the other hand, a used R can easily be had for under $200; combined with a ~$80 J3 from Yuri, it looks (on paper) like a good start and comes in well under budget which is nice.

Of course, along with "R vs R2" everyone should feel free to chime in with overall thoughts on my half–baked plan here. Part of me keeps thinking I should just get a Kiev and a J3 and worry about other stuff after I save up more cash, but I'm afraid that might just whet my appetite for a "nicer" body (cf. Ash and his Contax). 🙂 Thanks for any input in advance...
 
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If the idea is to get a user body that you'll use for a while, the R2's metal shell might be a little more rugged. I don't think in general it's a bad strategy to concentrate on either glass or body, depending on your point of view. I've held neither camera but the general opinion is that the R2 is sturdier. The insides are pretty much the same. The R2 has the advantage of the M mount which will take either type of lens, which is a pretty big bonus for future expansion.

I can say that finding a "user" R2 isn't easy. They come up on ebay pretty rarely.

I also think your reasoning about the internal meter is not a bad one. You know your shooting style, and it is convenient to have one onboard. Sunny 16 inside is very tough. There's too many variations and kinds of light for most people to tease out.

You might want to check ebay for a CL...it's got an onboard meter (make sure it works) and it's a nice, tiny bodied rangefinder. I got one without a functional meter from KEH for $200.

cheers
doug
 
In my opinion, your reasoning is solid and you're making a good choice by starting with a new body. I own the Bessa R and it has proven to be pretty robust in use; I have traveled across the country with mine and had no problems. It's also a very good walkaround camera.

If you can only afford one lens to start with I think you would be better served by spending the cash up front and beginning with the excellent CV 35/2.5 color skopar in LTM. It's a sharp, reasonably priced little lens that performs well in almost any situation. You'll know where the extra money went when you see your prints. I own several CV lenses, including the 35/2.5, and they are all high quality pieces of equipment -- especially given their prices.

Opinion alert 😉.... Why go through the process of buying an interchangeable-lens RF only to saddle it with cheap glass? Isn't that one reason why you're "moving up" from your Hi-Matics? The fast glass on those Minoltas will probably out-perfom many Jupiters or Industars. I have owned several Hi-Matics (7/7s/F/G) and several FSU lenses (I-26m/I-61/I-50/J-8) and the Minoltas always gave slightly better results. Not to bash the FSU lenses, which are cheap and fun, but the Rokkors were definitely of higher quality. End opinion alert 🙂 .

I've not used the Jupiter-3 but I have heard that it is particularly hard to find one in good working condition. If you can live with a slightly slower lens, I can strongly recommend the Jupiter-8 50/2.0. I have an old chrome tabbed version and it's a very nice lens, especially for people pictures. Some sample images can be found in my gallery.

Good luck with your buying decision. A final bit of advice would be to buy from a reputable dealer. If something should go wrong at least you will have a warranty to fall back on. I've purchased from CameraQuest and PhotoVillage and had good experiences from both dealers.

Have fun with you new camera, congrats on the marriage and best of luck in buying a home. Ain't "real life" grand? 😉 .
 
I've owned both, my chrome R was completely reliable and sturdy, but I wanted the M mount for easier and quicker lens changing and a larger choice of lenses. I now have a green R2, which I have had for about four years, I think, no problems, but it does seem to be even sturdier than the R, particularly the back door. IMHO the metering also seems to be more accurate
(but not by much)
 
For me, the Bessa R is just right...I upgraded (in terms of a Rangefinder) from a 50 year old Kodak Signet 40, and wanted to be able to have a mechanical shutter, but an exposure meter that was a bit more sophisticated than a selenium meter. The screw mount wasn't a problem, because I'd have a tough time affording M-mount lenses. If I happen to find one I could afford, an adapter would fix that. The body IS metal, just the top and bottom plates are not. I don't anticipate any difficulties with the body being banged up, especially as I keep in the half-case.

The R2 is beefed up a bit, but I'm quite happy with the "R".

Regards!
Don
 
Hi Don, I agree with everything you've said except for this:

The screw mount wasn't a problem, because I'd have a tough time affording M-mount lenses. If I happen to find one I could afford, an adapter would fix that.

I'm afraid it only works the other way around - there are adaptors to mount screw mount lenses onto a M-mount body.
 
Thanks, Frank....I've been confused about that from the get-go...

Oh, well...I'll stick with the voightlander and FSU lenses, the odd old Leica or clone, I guess. That's fine, anyhow, because I don't expect to ever have more than 3 lenses for this machine.

Regards!
Don
 
Your signature rocks too, Frank. I've been studying T'ai Chi Ch'uan for 15 years, teaching for 8, and I would hijack your signature statement in a minute! VERY much in keeping with TCC...

Best!
Don
 
My two cents

My two cents

I recently got my R2 aftering spending quite some time boring the life out of the camera store owner.

I have held the R, T, R2, R2a, R2m, etc and played with them.

The original Bessa R has a built-in timer.
The R2 does not have a timer.

In terms of how it feels.
I believe the inside components are the same for R, & R2.
R's back film door is plastic, R2 is metal.
I am sure the R2 is more durable.

The R2 has an M-mount.
Which means you have the best of the both world, LTM via an adapter.
M mount lenses are not expensive,
there are always bargain to be had if you know where to look locally.
Isn't having more options better?

In the long run, the R2 will better serve you.

The question is not get it cheap or expensive,
but get it right the first time.

Last, here is some R2 images to tempt you:
http://manfred-lai.blogspot.com/2006/11/super-wide-heliar-15mm-f45.html
http://viking-manfred.blogspot.com/2006/11/voigtlander-bessa-r2.html

Cheers,
Manfred
 
I have never used a R2. I'm sure it is more heavily built than the R, but the R is still a well made camera. Of course nothing comes close to my old Nikkormat FTn, but I digress.

The Jupiter 3/Bessa R is my favorite lens/camera combination. The Bessa is reliable, easy to use, and has all the modern conveniences. I've heard the horror stories about bad 3's, but mine (from Yuri) has been perfect from the day I got it. It's more lens than my skill can fully use.

Do the smart thing: get the R and the J3. Spend the leftover money on your wife, or a trip with her.
 
cbass said:
I own several CV lenses, including the 35/2.5, and they are all high quality pieces of equipment -- especially given their prices.

Agreed in principle. 2.5, unfortunately, just doesn't give me the flexibility that I'm used to. I use 1.7 and 2.0 more than anything else--I often have pretty shaky hands. Without at least f2, I'm pretty restricted in the low light as 1/125 is the slowest I can usually hand hold.

Opinion alert 😉.... Why go through the process of buying an interchangeable-lens RF only to saddle it with cheap glass? Isn't that one reason why you're "moving up" from your Hi-Matics? The fast glass on those Minoltas will probably out-perfom many Jupiters or Industars.

It's a good point, and one I've thought about. From what I've seen, a well-adjusted J3 from Yuri delivers a nice overall appearance whose qualities (to me) are as nice as the Hi-Matic 9 in different ways (don't seem to be as sharp, but there's something pleasing about its results even so, haven't put my finger on it yet). You're right that I really need to consider the possibility that my specimen won't hit that mark, though. Hrm.

Have fun with you new camera, congrats on the marriage and best of luck in buying a home. Ain't "real life" grand? 😉 .

That's for sure! So far, I'm liking it but it's not without it's sacrifices. Wife... CLE... wife... CLE.... 😎
 
pizzahut88 said:
The R2 has an M-mount.
Which means you have the best of the both world, LTM via an adapter.
M mount lenses are not expensive,
there are always bargain to be had if you know where to look locally.
Isn't having more options better?

Agreed that more options is better, but from what I've seen the M-mount lenses (at least those of comparable quality) are definitely more expensive and by a wide margin. I don't foresee being able to pay that premium any time soon (ie, the next ten years). There's only two shops in my town that sell rangefinder gear, and both are in line with what I've seen online at places like KEH and Adorama. I'm sure I could find deals occasionally at estate sales and such, but I'm not really in this for that sort of lottery. I'd rather be taking pictures.

I don't mean that to sound as snippy as it probably does...

The question is not get it cheap or expensive,
but get it right the first time.

Well, that's true to exactly the extent that one has a given amount to spend. 🙂
 
FrankS said:
Sounds like you've made up your mind! 🙂

Darn close. I still may consider the suggestion of the 35/2.5 Color Skopar, though. It's not as fast as I'd like, but it's not as if 2.5 is *slow*, either, I suppose! Maybe if I add a mini tripod to the package. 😉 And on the upside it gives me the wider angle that I like. Choices, choices!

Does anyone who owns both of these want to add their two cents? Or, does anyone know of a good comparison online (similar light conditions, digitized via the same process) that would give an apples-to-apples quality glimpse?

Now that I think about it, one more question! Does anyone have first-hand experience with either lens at temperatures below freezing? Will the J3 gum up and/or stick to the flagpole? 😉 I pretty routinely shoot for an hour or so at a time in temperatures as low as -20F. It gets pretty cold outside in the wee hours in a Minnesota January...
 
climbing_vine said:
I love mine. But the relative slowness of the lens, the vignetting wide-open, and the extremely squinty viewfinder make it a real chore to use in dim conditions for anything but long exposures. To me, at least.
Yeah ... my tongue was sorta in my cheek. I was just impressed with that photo. Not razor sharp, but quite nice.

Good luck; I'm sure that once you get the new rig, you're going to have a ball.

BTW, if 1/125 is the slowest you can handhold, I'd be really surprised if some change in technique and practice didn't get you down to 1/30 at the very least. With a modern RF, 1/8 - 1/4 is often quite workable.
 
Trius said:
BTW, if 1/125 is the slowest you can handhold, I'd be really surprised if some change in technique and practice didn't get you down to 1/30 at the very least. With a modern RF, 1/8 - 1/4 is often quite workable.

The more I think about it, part of the problem may indeed be equipment. I definitely shake sometimes--heriditary muscle tremors, I try to control it using my rifling breathing practice. But 1/8 isn't totally out of reach at my best when I use my digital Canon Elph on 2-second shutter delay. The 1/125 is with my Spotmatics and stiff and sproing-y Hi-Matic shutter releases. If the Bessa is nice and smooth on the release, the f2.5 Skopar may do the trick 90% of the time.
 
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