Livesteamer
Well-known
I bought my Nikkormat Ftn new in 1973. It has never let me down. My Nikon F did once, it lost all speeds above 1/60 and I lost a couple rolls. Joe
Best built mechanical SLR?
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tunalegs
Pretended Artist
Well, if we're just going by longevity...
I've got two 80 year old Pilot 6 cameras that are still working fine.
Pilot 6 by Berang Berang, on Flickr
Sure, the mirrors needed replacement, and the shutter needed a tiny spot of oil, but I would not believe there was a more reliable SLR out there. Of course it's only twice as reliable as anything else because it has half as many parts.
I've got two 80 year old Pilot 6 cameras that are still working fine.
Pilot 6 by Berang Berang, on FlickrSure, the mirrors needed replacement, and the shutter needed a tiny spot of oil, but I would not believe there was a more reliable SLR out there. Of course it's only twice as reliable as anything else because it has half as many parts.
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
Nikon F's - there are plenty around for spare parts and they are fairly easy to fix if ever needed.
Leicaflex SL/SL2. Overbuilt, particularly the Mot versions - but very expensive to repair. A shutter job on a SL is 5-6 hours labor alone. Meter circuits are usually dead and difficult to find parts for. imitd lens supply. The Nikon F is my choice - sold, traded or gave awa=y my SL'SL2's some years ago. Just kept a R6 for the Macro Elmarit 60 and the Telyt 180f3.4.
Leicaflex SL/SL2. Overbuilt, particularly the Mot versions - but very expensive to repair. A shutter job on a SL is 5-6 hours labor alone. Meter circuits are usually dead and difficult to find parts for. imitd lens supply. The Nikon F is my choice - sold, traded or gave awa=y my SL'SL2's some years ago. Just kept a R6 for the Macro Elmarit 60 and the Telyt 180f3.4.
Bill Clark
Veteran
I have a Nikkormat I bought when serving in the military in the 1970s. I have a bunch of Nikkor lenses I bought back then when I was in Asia.
Everything still works just fine. The only repair was I replaced the sponge bumper the mirror hits up by the prism after clickng the shutter.
Never needed even a CLA!
Everything still works just fine. The only repair was I replaced the sponge bumper the mirror hits up by the prism after clickng the shutter.
Never needed even a CLA!
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
The build quality of my Pentax 67ii is very impressive. Not sure about the longevity but the fit and finish is very good and any shutter and mirror mechanism that can make that much noise without disintegrating must be very well made! 🙂
Harry Lime
Practitioner
In no particular order
Leicaflex SL
Nikon F2 / FM
Canon F1
Pentax K1000 (high school students couldn't kill these...
Leicaflex SL
Nikon F2 / FM
Canon F1
Pentax K1000 (high school students couldn't kill these...
Robert Lai
Well-known
You asked about the weaknesses of the F and F2
You asked about the weaknesses of the F and F2
Sover Wong overhauled my Nikon F and F2 x 2.
Weaknesses on the F:
The F prism is padded by foam which decays and pulls the silver off. It is hard to find a Nikon F prism which doesn't suffer from desilvering. If you do have such an intact prism, then send it to Sover right away to get the foam off. I've had North American repairers (including some well known names) claim that they took the foam off, but Sover proved to me that they didn't (by his photographs that he takes as he is dismantling).
Also, the decaying foam is a fungus growth medium. Especially if your camera lived in humid Japan, Hawaii, or Florida, expect a lot of internal fungus.
F2: the shutter needs to be carefully treated. Nikon's manual said not to keep the shutter wound for a prolonged period of time, and Sover confirms it. If you want to keep the shutter accurate, only wind before you are going to shoot. The F2 allows continuously variable shutter speeds between 1/80 to 1/2000. The F only allows the shutter speeds on the detents.
Meter heads for F and F2 - the carbon resistors of the early F meters and F2 Photomic prisms wear out. They can be rehabbed to some extent. The sturdiest meter is actually the F2A, which has a wire-wound resistor. It will last several human life times.
In my continuous search for an FTN prism that wasn't desilvered, I found a mint looking one from Japan. Sover noted that this particular FTN was very late production, actually 5 years after the F officially ceased production. Also, the FTN was the only one of its kind that he's ever seen with a wire-wound rheostat, like the F2A. Alas, there was internal fungus (see note above about cameras from Japan). Sover has sterilized all of my cameras to rid them of internal fungus.
Oh, the CdS cells of the F and F2 meters may die. Sover has custom made replacement CdS cells!
Also, the F and F2 use a lot of internal foam seals. Most repairers leave them rotted. Sover replaces them ALL. The rotten foam is why my cameras were gowth chambers for fungus.
The F2 MD-3 motor drives have a problem with an idler gear made of nylon. The nylon inevitably splits with the strain, and the motor becomes useless. I picked up a mint MD-3 with this problem.
Sover makes a BRASS replacement gear. Now this motor drive can really power through a roll of film. However, compared to the F3's MD-4, the F2 motors are rather more crude and mechanical in nature.
Finally, in spite all that you read on the net about these cameras being able to "pound nails", they can't. Their plates are thin brass with chrome or paint. These panels are easily bent. Here, the Leica plates are much heavier brass, and far more rigid. However, I wouldn't use an M7 to drive nails. Neither should you!
You asked about the weaknesses of the F and F2
Sover Wong overhauled my Nikon F and F2 x 2.
Weaknesses on the F:
The F prism is padded by foam which decays and pulls the silver off. It is hard to find a Nikon F prism which doesn't suffer from desilvering. If you do have such an intact prism, then send it to Sover right away to get the foam off. I've had North American repairers (including some well known names) claim that they took the foam off, but Sover proved to me that they didn't (by his photographs that he takes as he is dismantling).
Also, the decaying foam is a fungus growth medium. Especially if your camera lived in humid Japan, Hawaii, or Florida, expect a lot of internal fungus.
F2: the shutter needs to be carefully treated. Nikon's manual said not to keep the shutter wound for a prolonged period of time, and Sover confirms it. If you want to keep the shutter accurate, only wind before you are going to shoot. The F2 allows continuously variable shutter speeds between 1/80 to 1/2000. The F only allows the shutter speeds on the detents.
Meter heads for F and F2 - the carbon resistors of the early F meters and F2 Photomic prisms wear out. They can be rehabbed to some extent. The sturdiest meter is actually the F2A, which has a wire-wound resistor. It will last several human life times.
In my continuous search for an FTN prism that wasn't desilvered, I found a mint looking one from Japan. Sover noted that this particular FTN was very late production, actually 5 years after the F officially ceased production. Also, the FTN was the only one of its kind that he's ever seen with a wire-wound rheostat, like the F2A. Alas, there was internal fungus (see note above about cameras from Japan). Sover has sterilized all of my cameras to rid them of internal fungus.
Oh, the CdS cells of the F and F2 meters may die. Sover has custom made replacement CdS cells!
Also, the F and F2 use a lot of internal foam seals. Most repairers leave them rotted. Sover replaces them ALL. The rotten foam is why my cameras were gowth chambers for fungus.
The F2 MD-3 motor drives have a problem with an idler gear made of nylon. The nylon inevitably splits with the strain, and the motor becomes useless. I picked up a mint MD-3 with this problem.
Sover makes a BRASS replacement gear. Now this motor drive can really power through a roll of film. However, compared to the F3's MD-4, the F2 motors are rather more crude and mechanical in nature.
Finally, in spite all that you read on the net about these cameras being able to "pound nails", they can't. Their plates are thin brass with chrome or paint. These panels are easily bent. Here, the Leica plates are much heavier brass, and far more rigid. However, I wouldn't use an M7 to drive nails. Neither should you!
Huss
Veteran
Sover serviced both my F2s.
The F2As head also has the carbon resistor. Mine wore out - tell tale sign is jumping LEDS - but Sover has manufactured a replacement which will last a lifetime. And repaired mine with it.
My Fs have never been serviced and work perfectly. I didn't bother because i got them for so little $$. Out of guilt I took them to Walter's Camera Repair in Los Angeles. Great shop. Anyway when he saw me pull them out of my bag, he said not to bother as they'll be fine! And they are.
fuji645
Established
Topcon RE Super and Super DM. Original Mamiya 645--bought used in the '70's and still works like a charm. Never been CLA'd. Most troublesome-- Hasselblad 500c.
ktmrider
Well-known
I would have to say Nikon F in 35mm and Blad 500C/M in medium format.
Robert Lai
Well-known
My F had been "serviced" by a well known North American repair service. To their credit, the shutter was well adjusted. However, Sover found a ton of decay and neglect inside. The F is an inherently durable design, but any fine machine needs cleaning and a new lube now and then.
Only the DP-11 (F2A) has the wire-wound resistor. All of the others have the carbon resistors, including the DP-12 (F2AS). Sover has a ceramic replacement for the DP-12 resistor, which has been shown in testing to last over 1 million rotations without any wear.
Only the DP-11 (F2A) has the wire-wound resistor. All of the others have the carbon resistors, including the DP-12 (F2AS). Sover has a ceramic replacement for the DP-12 resistor, which has been shown in testing to last over 1 million rotations without any wear.
johnf04
Well-known
The best one I've been inside was a Canon FT. The shutter shafts run in ball races.
biomed
Veteran
My vote is for the F2. I bought this one new in 1973.
p.giannakis
Pan Giannakis
Out of the cameras that i have used, i would say that the Olympus OM-1n is on the top of my list.
sc_rufctr
Leica nuts
At various times I've had just about every mechanical SLR you could imagine.
Of the Japanese... Pentax's have always shined. Great build quality for the money but my all time favorite... The Leica R6.2. (As unlikely as that might seem)
The R6.2 just feel right. I can't explain it any better than that and a "softy" transforms the shutter release.
OK Flame suit on but... IMO
I think Nikon's have always been overrated. They feel chintzy and cheap to me.
Canon in general build a better more solid feeling camera.
Of the Japanese... Pentax's have always shined. Great build quality for the money but my all time favorite... The Leica R6.2. (As unlikely as that might seem)
The R6.2 just feel right. I can't explain it any better than that and a "softy" transforms the shutter release.
OK Flame suit on but... IMO
I think Nikon's have always been overrated. They feel chintzy and cheap to me.
Canon in general build a better more solid feeling camera.
Harry Lime
Practitioner
I also have an R6.2 and it really is one of the best mechanical SLR ever made. It's a super compact little jewel of a camera with a brilliant viewfinder. I've had mine for about 10 years and it's never given me a problem, but I have no idea how it stacks up overall and compared to other brands.
The worst thing about it is the mushy shutter release. I have no idea what the boys over at Leica were drinking when they designed that part, because it's crap. But I agree that a soft release pretty much solves the problem...
sc_rufctr
Leica nuts
🙄
_goodtimez
Well-known
I would place the Nikon F along with the Minolta SRT series on top
_goodtimez
Well-known
My vote is for the F2. I bought this one new in 1973.
It still looks like new 43 years later. Really nice.
Spanik
Well-known
Lovely camera. Makes me think of my Korelle reflex is also getting along in years.
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