esteves
Newbie
Hi,
Which is in you opinion the best film (B&W) to be used in a ContaxG2 for street photography?
Thanx
Which is in you opinion the best film (B&W) to be used in a ContaxG2 for street photography?
Thanx
mfunnell
Shaken, so blurred
If you're not developing your own the most convenient options are the C41 (colour process) films: Kodak BW400CN or Ilford XP2. I also like scans from colour (generally Kodak Gold 100 or 200) converted to black and white.
For "real" B&W I, personally like Ilford Delta 400 (developed, usually, with LC29) or, what I mostly use now, Kodak Tri-X developed in HC110.
But that's just me. I don't know there is such a thing as "best".
...Mike
For "real" B&W I, personally like Ilford Delta 400 (developed, usually, with LC29) or, what I mostly use now, Kodak Tri-X developed in HC110.
But that's just me. I don't know there is such a thing as "best".
...Mike
Luna
Well-known
Which is the best color for photography of cats? Black G2 or Titanium G2?
April Fools?
April Fools?
kshapero
South Florida Man
I have settled on XP2. Love the contrast and also the flexibility of processing C-41.
daninjc
Well-known
ellisson
Well-known
To get the highest shutter speed, I prefer films that I can shoot at EI400 or higher, since I tend to scale focus a lot at f5.6-f8 and the lighting conditions vary. Otherwise, I see no particular reason for one film over another for street shooting.
Highway 61
Revisited
It depends on the weather. If it rains on the afternoon, then shoot on the morning.
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
Consider: when shooting color film, it's possible to control lightness of separate colors in Photoshop and other software before converting to B&W. That gives the opportunity to correct some disturbing elements in a shot by correcting the lightness and contrast of such element to its surroundings before converting to B&W.
I shoot 400ASA color film on a dull day, 200ASA on a bright day. Stop down to f8.0 or f5.6 if you must and scale focus, and you can tackle most situations. Using a handheld meter allows to set the camera without putting it to your eye and helps a lot sometimes.
EDIT: Oh, and welcome to the forum! Never mind the 'cranky' replies, in essence they are all good guys 'n gals
I shoot 400ASA color film on a dull day, 200ASA on a bright day. Stop down to f8.0 or f5.6 if you must and scale focus, and you can tackle most situations. Using a handheld meter allows to set the camera without putting it to your eye and helps a lot sometimes.
EDIT: Oh, and welcome to the forum! Never mind the 'cranky' replies, in essence they are all good guys 'n gals
ZeissFan
Veteran
I think film is an individual choice -- much like cameras. Myself, I like Kodak TMax 100 and 400 and Agfapan APX 100 and 400.
But that's what I like. You might not like it at all.
But that's what I like. You might not like it at all.
StefanJozef
Well-known
I use HP5 for street. In the middle of winter I use Delta 3200 rated at 1600. I have tried other films especially Delta 400 but always seem to revert back to HP5. I just love it developed in DDX.
softshock
Established
P3200 @ 6400 in the middle of the night.
stefan-s
Member
Why shoot in the middle of the night in the streets?
dct
perpetual amateur
I'm giving a try to Ilford XP2 too (I don't process myself). My usual lab can process the special b/w too (at higher prices!), but I have to finish this first roll XP2 in my 500GX, before I may step up to 800 ISO films or more.
May you post some results of your XP2 experience? And what camera are you using for street photo?
Shane
Member
Anything 400 ASA.
mfogiel
Veteran
The choice is obvious, I am actually quite amazed at all the above answers. Nothing beats Tri X, for its speed and flexibility. If you develop it in Diafine, you can rate it at EI 1000, but you will gain amazing useful exposure range. This can give you a chance to range focus and use your rangefinder with top speed This combination has been the top choice of most PG's before the advent of digital..
dct
perpetual amateur
Ilford XP2 results
Ilford XP2 results
Here you find a first try with a XP2.
I'm very pleased of these first results. More of it are at my gallery, etc...
I see some problem of overexposure when I shoot b/w in bright sun. I should stop down in such situations, even if metering is correct. Is this true?
Ilford XP2 results
Here you find a first try with a XP2.
I'm very pleased of these first results. More of it are at my gallery, etc...
I see some problem of overexposure when I shoot b/w in bright sun. I should stop down in such situations, even if metering is correct. Is this true?
l.mar
Well-known
Absolutely --- Tri-X is the way to go.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Here you find a first try with a XP2.
I'm very pleased of these first results. More of it are at my gallery, etc...
I see some problem of overexposure when I shoot b/w in bright sun. I should stop down in such situations, even if metering is correct. Is this true?
Your problem in bright sun is not too much exposure, it is too much contrast. With regular black & white film, you can reduce developing time to reduce contrast on rolls shot in harsh sun. With C-41, you're stuck with the standard time. Don't reduce exposure, this just makes the problem worse by dropping dark tones below the threshold where they will no longer show detail. If you scan the film, you can adjust contrast in Photoshop. If you print in the darkroom, you can use the low contrast filters with Variable Contrast paper to fix it. If you're having the lab make regular 4x6 prints from a machine, you're out of luck. Just don't shoot in harsh sun.
dct
perpetual amateur
Your comment sounds good, because as next I have an Ilford Delta 100 waiting. This regular b&w should be better customizable during development.
As I don't shoot many images a week, I will come back somehow in a few weeks with these results.
Thank you for the advice.
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Wolf Rainer Schmalfu
Member
Try out the unmasked ROLLEI Digibase CN 200 (C-41), and you can do your prints in color and B&W with original grey tonality!