Best FSU for 35

[DCB]

What is the best FSU camera if I want to use a 35mm lens?

Thanks

Peace

 

[02Pilot]

Assuming you're going to use an external finder, I'd say you want one where the position of the finder you're using is not too awkward and doesn't obstruct the shutter speed knob. I've used my FED-2 with a J-12 35mm and Canon VF with no problems, but there are too many variables to make a blanket recommendation.

 

[pete hogan]

Perhaps you're aware of this already, DCB, but if you don't want to use an external viewfinder with the 35mm lens, turn the camera 90 degrees and the internal 50mm viewfinder will show the correct image height in composing the shot.

 

[DCB]

Thanks Pete. I am not looking to adding an external finder if I can get away with it.

Is there one that does well with the 35mm lens (J-12) or such?

Thanks

Peace

 

[pete hogan]

See what recommendations come up on this thread. I like my Zorki 1c, but that's the extent of my FSU experience.

O2's point about clearance to the speed dial is good, that's pretty close on the Z1.

 

[AndersG]

If you don't want an external finder, I think you are out of luck w.r.t. all the common LTM ones (FED 1-5, Zorki 1-6) as their built in finders are all for a ~50mm lens. IIRC neither the Leningrad nor the Droug(?) have a 35mm frame line but perhaps the full coverage of the viewfinder comes close? (And did both have frame lines?)

If you are good at visualizing the parts you don't see you might get away with the 90 deg turn and back described above, but I think a good 35mm finder would make the process much more enjoyable (be aware of parallax problems at close range, though).

I use a FSU turret finder which is not small and offers a rather squinty view - its only and questionable advantages are low price and outlandish looks...

/Anders

 

[pete hogan]

Shooting at a range of 20 feet, the horizontal image from a 35mm will be 3.5 feet wider on each side than from a 50mm. You can scale it from there for different ranges. I find that easier to gauge than the height addition.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Thanks Pete. I am not looking to adding an external finder if I can get away with it.

Is there one that does well with the 35mm lens (J-12) or such?

Thanks

Peace

I didn't find any. This was main reason to buy Bessa R for me. But then it didn't work well with J-12 😱

 

[Scrambler]

I didn't find any. This was main reason to buy Bessa R for me. But then it didn't work well with J-12 😱

It depends on your J12 whether it will mount on a Bessa. Some do, some don't (focus to infinity) Best camera I have for a J12 is a Konica Hexar RF, which mounts and meters J12s.

 

[CliveC]

The J-12 is a curious lens. It protrudes so far into the camera that it limits compatibility. It works (barely) with the GXR M-mount, but does not fit on the X-Pro1 with a Leica mount adapter. It fits the Canon 7 and P, though I have not shot any film with that combination as of yet.

 

[Ko.Fe.]

It depends on your J12 whether it will mount on a Bessa. Some do, some don't (focus to infinity) Best camera I have for a J12 is a Konica Hexar RF, which mounts and meters J12s.

I have one which was mounting. Silver version, earlier production years. No problem on R and L.
But exposure meter sensor was blocked for obvious reason.

 

[Elmar Lang]

Hello,

the viewfinder of the Leningrad, actually gives the view for the 35mm. with further internal frames, for the 50/85/135.

I think it's the only FSU rangefinder camera with this feature.

Anyways, I don't think that it's so complicate the use of an external finder, like the very useful turret one.

E.L.

 

[Dez]

I believe the Leningrad is almost certainly as close as you can get to compatibility with a 35mm lens. The finder is extremely good, with parallax-correcting framelines for 50, 85 and 135mm lenses. The full frame is for 35.

I believe it is one of only two RF cameras ever made to have a true split-image rangefinder, the other being an obscure east German make whose name escapes me at the moment. It also has a very long RF baseline, so focus accuracy is very good indeed.



The Leningrad with an 85mm Jupiter 9 lens



The largest- and smallest-ever LTM cameras



The fabulous Leningrad finder

Its level of finish is significantly higher than other FSU cameras, with the possible exception of very early Kievs.

But it's big, heavy, and clunky, and makes a sound loud enough that you would need to exercise great care in avalanche zones. I love it.

Cheers,
Dez

 

[Dez]

I believe the Leningrad is almost certainly the only FSU camera to properly handle 35mm lenses. The finder is extremely good, with parallax-correcting framelines for 50, 85, and 135mm lenses. Full frame is for 35's. I recall that the frames stay put and the view moves behind them as you focus. Best VF ever!

I believe it is one of only two RF cameras ever made to have a true split-image rangefinder, the other being an obscure east German make whose name escapes me at the moment. It also has a very long RF baseline, so focus accuracy is very good indeed.



The Leningrad with an 85mm Jupiter 9 lens



The largest- and smallest-ever LTM cameras



The fabulous Leningrad finder

Its level of finish is significantly higher than other FSU cameras, with the possible exception of very early Kievs.

But it's big, heavy, and clunky, and makes a sound loud enough that you would need to exercise great care in avalanche zones. I love it.

Cheers,
Dez

 

[DCB]

Different question.

Do you really have to cut the film leader before you load?

Thanks

 

[Elmar Lang]

This is true for Leica-type cameras: I mean the bottom-loading ones, like the early FEDs and Zorkis.

The soviet manufacturers learned a lot, after the Contax design: its completely removable back makes loading very easy and quick.

I am a RF Kiev (and Contax) fan. Anyways, I think that the Zorki 3 and 4 and the FED-2 are excellent too.

The Leningrad was a masterpiece under any point of view, with one of the best viewfinders ever seen in a professional-oriented camera. The prizes won in Brussels and Leipzig were all well-deserved. It's a pity that some mechanical details were made with low-quality material, but a well preserved/overhauled piece, is still a very fine camera to use... all right, far from avalanche zones!

Best wishes,

E.L.

 

[Scrambler]

Different question. Do you really have to cut the film leader before you load? Thanks

Assuming you have a bottom loading camera, No, but every other option is more trouble than cutting.

There are a number of systems for short leader films, which are complex and take time. And are so much trouble that cutting the leader is actually simpler.

I bulk load and don't cut any leader. This is more trouble to load than a long leader but less than a standard short leader.

A long leader just works smoothly. I cut them for anything I want to load quickly, simply, the first time.

 

[pete hogan]

The everready case for my Zorki 1c came with a thin plastic card which some use to aid in loading film, but I haven't tried it. Cutting a half-width leader from the 24th sprocket hole to the end works well. Don't cut through a sprocket hole.

 

[fanshaw]

The everready case for my Zorki 1c came with a thin plastic card which some use to aid in loading film, but I haven't tried it. Cutting a half-width leader from the 24th sprocket hole to the end works well. Don't cut through a sprocket hole.

The card isn't intended for film loading. It is for making notes using a pencil.

 

[pete hogan]

The card isn't intended for film loading. It is for making notes using a pencil.

Good thing I didn't jam it in there then. There are some illegible markings on it.

BTW, there's a reference in the old LTM sticky about loading with plastic cards, specifically the Zorki er case card, and film threading. Post #52 on Page 3 poses concerns about damaging the film pressure plate. There are similar concerns noted in Zorki loading threads in Leica SM Copies.

The original trimming method has worked well for several years with my IIf and more recently with the Zorki 1c. They're the same. It becomes easy with practice.