raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
Hi,
Can I ask the more knowledgeable fellow rffers here to help to identify these problems that i am experiencing and perhaps suggest workarounds.
I noticed that these problems tend to occur more when I am using the microdol-x developer. This isn't conclusive as I am using Mic-x a lot more recently and it could have been attributed to other factors, eg. fixer is currently reused several times.
(a) I see dust on the cheek. But what is this patch on the book shelf ? On some roll, as many as 5 frames having this issue, it isn't on the same location but within the same quadrant.
(b) In several rolls, there seem to be debris across the photos.
Initially, I thought I did not wash enough and I increase the water bath. But this problems persist.
(c) This looks like a nick on photo, and this is quite common in some of the rolls. The issue next to the hair is obviously dust.
(d)_ Not shown, I notice whirls on some of the photos, ie. concentic ovals on the picture.
Of course, I suppose the next logical thing is to
* clean the tank, plastic reels etc, which has a layer of black "soot" in them.
* try out different developer on the same film
Any suggestions ?
raytoei
Can I ask the more knowledgeable fellow rffers here to help to identify these problems that i am experiencing and perhaps suggest workarounds.
I noticed that these problems tend to occur more when I am using the microdol-x developer. This isn't conclusive as I am using Mic-x a lot more recently and it could have been attributed to other factors, eg. fixer is currently reused several times.
(a) I see dust on the cheek. But what is this patch on the book shelf ? On some roll, as many as 5 frames having this issue, it isn't on the same location but within the same quadrant.
(b) In several rolls, there seem to be debris across the photos.
Initially, I thought I did not wash enough and I increase the water bath. But this problems persist.
(c) This looks like a nick on photo, and this is quite common in some of the rolls. The issue next to the hair is obviously dust.
(d)_ Not shown, I notice whirls on some of the photos, ie. concentic ovals on the picture.
Of course, I suppose the next logical thing is to
* clean the tank, plastic reels etc, which has a layer of black "soot" in them.
* try out different developer on the same film
Any suggestions ?
raytoei
MartinP
Veteran
I'm not so great at this stuff, but maybe could offer some ideas. . .
The rounded 'ectoplasm' blobs are most likely water marks. They can be reduced considerably by making the final rinse in distilled, or heavily filtered (like with a water-jug filter thing) soft water, with a tiny amount of wetting agent in it.
The marks in 'b' are something stuck on the film, possibly incompletely dissolved particles of developer. If you are using developer made from a powder (eg. such as the Microdol you mentioned, or D76 or ID11, an excellent choice btw) then filter it before use with a twist of cotton-wool in a funnel. Use the developer once only.
The reels and tank should be pretty much spotless - scrub with a nail brush and finally bleach the reels (dilute household bleach overnight) then re-wash, with both agitation and soaks in clean water, until you can't smell the bleach at least.
The likelihood of emulsion damage is somewhat dependent on the film choice, as some are harder and more resistant than others. Reduce it by not touching, or squeegee-ing, the wet film and unload it from the reels extremely carefully by bowing the film gently and not by simply opening the two halves of a plastic reel.
If the fixer was made from powder, or if it's re-used, then filter it before use as described above. Use a cleaned funnel and a fresh cotton-wool 'filter' of course.
The artifacts you mention in 'd' could be newtons-rings formed between the negative and either the neg-carrier or scanning bed, or possibly more watermarks.
For more precise advice on sorting out what 'should' be a simple process it would be good to know the chemicals you have used, the sort of film, type of equipment, previous developing history etc etc.
Good luck
The rounded 'ectoplasm' blobs are most likely water marks. They can be reduced considerably by making the final rinse in distilled, or heavily filtered (like with a water-jug filter thing) soft water, with a tiny amount of wetting agent in it.
The marks in 'b' are something stuck on the film, possibly incompletely dissolved particles of developer. If you are using developer made from a powder (eg. such as the Microdol you mentioned, or D76 or ID11, an excellent choice btw) then filter it before use with a twist of cotton-wool in a funnel. Use the developer once only.
The reels and tank should be pretty much spotless - scrub with a nail brush and finally bleach the reels (dilute household bleach overnight) then re-wash, with both agitation and soaks in clean water, until you can't smell the bleach at least.
The likelihood of emulsion damage is somewhat dependent on the film choice, as some are harder and more resistant than others. Reduce it by not touching, or squeegee-ing, the wet film and unload it from the reels extremely carefully by bowing the film gently and not by simply opening the two halves of a plastic reel.
If the fixer was made from powder, or if it's re-used, then filter it before use as described above. Use a cleaned funnel and a fresh cotton-wool 'filter' of course.
The artifacts you mention in 'd' could be newtons-rings formed between the negative and either the neg-carrier or scanning bed, or possibly more watermarks.
For more precise advice on sorting out what 'should' be a simple process it would be good to know the chemicals you have used, the sort of film, type of equipment, previous developing history etc etc.
Good luck
Last edited:
xwhatsit
Well-known
I'm no expert -- but, I fumble my way through developing just like any other beginner. I second the advice about water marks. I use Ilfotol in my wash, it solves that mostly.
I still get the dust, although it's reduced when I hang the film to dry in my shower (turn on shower on hot before hanging, lots of steam, keeps the dust down).
I do notice, however, that scanning shows dust spots disproportionately (along with grain and the rest of it). When I print (even though I have a condenser enlarger), the same dust spots are often invisible or almost gone. Grain is also a lot less obvious. Oddly enough the results are sharper and seem more detailed. Of course, it takes a lot longer and costs a bit in paper, but it is fun
I still get the dust, although it's reduced when I hang the film to dry in my shower (turn on shower on hot before hanging, lots of steam, keeps the dust down).
I do notice, however, that scanning shows dust spots disproportionately (along with grain and the rest of it). When I print (even though I have a condenser enlarger), the same dust spots are often invisible or almost gone. Grain is also a lot less obvious. Oddly enough the results are sharper and seem more detailed. Of course, it takes a lot longer and costs a bit in paper, but it is fun
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
Thanks MartinP, xwhatsit for your comments.
I think you hit the nail on the head on debris in (B), microdol-x wasn't filtered.
For (A), ectoplasm blobs, can I know how do you use Ilfotol ? I put about 2 drops after wash into the tank, then fill it with water, wait for 30 seconds, pour out the water then hang to dry. Is this similar to your understanding as well ?
I think (A) may be related to (B).
Let me try it out.
thanks
I think you hit the nail on the head on debris in (B), microdol-x wasn't filtered.
For (A), ectoplasm blobs, can I know how do you use Ilfotol ? I put about 2 drops after wash into the tank, then fill it with water, wait for 30 seconds, pour out the water then hang to dry. Is this similar to your understanding as well ?
I think (A) may be related to (B).
Let me try it out.
thanks
Pico
-
Water marks - probably. But the big threads are from a dirty environment. Tip to take care of each problem: after washing, use Photoflow 1:200 (and not a bit more concentrated than that) in DISTILLED WATER. Do not wipe the film. Just let it hang and drain-dry.
In fact, with Microdol it's a good idea to mix it using distilled water because distilled is usually filtered, naturally. (I have my own distiller. I can't tell you how valuable it has been over the years.)
Aside: film washes best in hard water, but dries the worst with hard water so the distilled water with photoflow is recommended for the final rinse.
In fact, with Microdol it's a good idea to mix it using distilled water because distilled is usually filtered, naturally. (I have my own distiller. I can't tell you how valuable it has been over the years.)
Aside: film washes best in hard water, but dries the worst with hard water so the distilled water with photoflow is recommended for the final rinse.
Freakscene
Obscure member
Use distilled water, at the very least from your final wash, and filter it if you find it still has gunk in it. Get a film dryer with an air filter and be tight about your darkroom cleaning. The junk can really only come from the solutions or the air.
Marty
Marty
xwhatsit
Well-known
I use the Ilford `archival wash' routine (which probably isn't, according to many on APUG). If doing just one film, I fill up a litre of water at process temp, then roughly measure out a tiny portion of a capful of Ilfotol and pour it in. I then use this water to do the Ilford wash -- 5 inversions with 300mL (I do 8), 10 inversions with 300mL (I do 16), and use the rest of the water to do 20 inversions (I do 32).
I probably use too much Ilfotol, especially measured that roughly (it's more than a couple of drops), because often I have bubbles when I open the tank. But I rarely get drying marks.
raytoei@gmail.com
Veteran
xwhatsit, freakscene: thanks for your suggestions. I will try it out....
