Kozhe
Well-known
Hi everybody!
I´m tempted to buy some Jupiter lenses, 3, 12 and 9 and I wonder if someone can give me some input about what version should I get, old aluminium or newer black models.
They told me the black ones have newer coated lenses that are more effective against lens flare but I also think someone told me someday older models were better made.
Any advise guys?
I´m tempted to buy some Jupiter lenses, 3, 12 and 9 and I wonder if someone can give me some input about what version should I get, old aluminium or newer black models.
They told me the black ones have newer coated lenses that are more effective against lens flare but I also think someone told me someday older models were better made.
Any advise guys?
Dave Wilkinson
Veteran
It's been discussed here to the point of tedium! - and basicly it's a lottery!...you pay your money and take a chance!Hi everybody!
I´m tempted to buy some Jupiter lenses, 3, 12 and 9 and I wonder if someone can give me some input about what version should I get, old aluminium or newer black models.
They told me the black ones have newer coated lenses that are more effective against lens flare but I also think someone told me someday older models were better made.
Any advise guys?
brachal
Refrigerated User
Mostly it depends on the sample you get. I would evaluate each lens individually ... I've got a black 80's J-8 that's great ... feels sturdier than 60's chrome lenses that are supposedly superior. I've got chrome lenses that are good performers in spite of their advanced age. You really have to take each lens and evaluate it individually. I think decent J-12s are fairly easy to find. Finding a decent J-3 or J-9 is usually difficult due to their speed and complexity. It's not a sure thing, but you'll improve your chances if you avoid auction sites and buy from fedka or Oleg at okvintagecamera.
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
yup, it is a lottery and a well discussed one at that.
lousy soft, uncollimated, flarey,gummed up helix FSU lenses come in black or silver exterior.
made from early 1950s to early 1990s.
once in a while you land a good one and you hold on to it.
my ratio is around six dogs to every one gem.
lousy soft, uncollimated, flarey,gummed up helix FSU lenses come in black or silver exterior.
made from early 1950s to early 1990s.
once in a while you land a good one and you hold on to it.
my ratio is around six dogs to every one gem.
Santafecino
button man
Kozhe--
Maybe I have better luck, but I've been able to assemble a suite of LTM Russian lenses--mostly silver--that perform well and cost very little. I think the key point is that after you buy a lens, you must have it serviced, so that it is lubricated well and collimated to focus with your camera. Skip the service, and it's a toss-up whether your lens works. But for an additional $20 or so you can rely on the results.
--Lindsay
Maybe I have better luck, but I've been able to assemble a suite of LTM Russian lenses--mostly silver--that perform well and cost very little. I think the key point is that after you buy a lens, you must have it serviced, so that it is lubricated well and collimated to focus with your camera. Skip the service, and it's a toss-up whether your lens works. But for an additional $20 or so you can rely on the results.
--Lindsay
xayraa33
rangefinder user and fancier
J-3s and J-9s are more risky than other FSU rf lenses, especially the LTM ones.
an RFF bought Jupiter-3 for instance that has been Sweeneyfied or Coxonized stands more of a chance of not being a disappointment and a waste of good money(your mileage may vary) that could have went towards the purchase price of a superb german or japanese vintage RF optic.
an RFF bought Jupiter-3 for instance that has been Sweeneyfied or Coxonized stands more of a chance of not being a disappointment and a waste of good money(your mileage may vary) that could have went towards the purchase price of a superb german or japanese vintage RF optic.
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ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
One more thing:black Jupiter 8 (and 3?) are simplified versions of the 'white' aluminium oldies. In the old J-8, the front doesn't rotate when the lens is focused. Ditto with the cam. In the later black J-8 both front and coupling cam turn as the lens is focused. Disadvantageous? Yes in a sense- sometimes you won't like to have your filter turning as the lens focuses. Or you might be concerned about how the continuous rubbing the camera's RF sensor tip gets with the turning lens coupling cam as it turns during focusing.
White aluminium older lenses tend to be better. Worn used ones, with maybe with minute hairline scratches would be good- these mean that the lenses got used a lot and worked.
White aluminium older lenses tend to be better. Worn used ones, with maybe with minute hairline scratches would be good- these mean that the lenses got used a lot and worked.
Kozhe
Well-known
Thanks everybody!
So it´s more a matter of luck, trusty sellers and aesthetics eh?
So it´s more a matter of luck, trusty sellers and aesthetics eh?
Dave Wilkinson
Veteran
Yes!- as the old story goes......a lot depends on how much vodka Boris and Ivan consumed before their shift on the assembly line!Thanks everybody!
So it´s more a matter of luck, trusty sellers and aesthetics eh?
- but seriously, my 1958 alloy Jupiter 8 gives very nice results.Dave.
Spider67
Well-known
Just tested some of my J 8's on my Bessa R2 (whose adapter was made for FSU lenses)
The black ones showed decent results. But is simply could not screw on the silver ones. When used with FSU's I could see no difference in their performance. The "chrome" ones are more prone to damage eg. One fell to the floor, it still gives great results, but at 3,5m there is a bit of resistance when focussing.
The black ones showed decent results. But is simply could not screw on the silver ones. When used with FSU's I could see no difference in their performance. The "chrome" ones are more prone to damage eg. One fell to the floor, it still gives great results, but at 3,5m there is a bit of resistance when focussing.
funkaoshi
Well-known
I think your best bet is to buy these lenses from Fedka. Pay a little premium to know that someones at least checked to make sure they will work properly on an M. I have a J3, which I love, that was fixed by Brian Sweeney, a user here. J3s are all kinds of awesome.
peter_n
Veteran
As most point out sample variation is the main factor. I have a J-8 and an Industar-10 that are good but I think it was just pure luck. The optics are often really good, it's the mechanics that are poor on these lenses.
Janos
Member
Hey,
Im new in this forum and an absolut beginner in RF stuff. Where do you get your lenses from?
Any secret hints or places?
Im new in this forum and an absolut beginner in RF stuff. Where do you get your lenses from?
Any secret hints or places?
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Spyderman
Well-known
Janos: It's a secret. It's called eBay. But don't tell anyone !
PS: also www.okvintagecameras.com and www.fedka.com
PS: also www.okvintagecameras.com and www.fedka.com
Janos
Member
Janos: It's a secret. It's called eBay. But don't tell anyone !
PS: also www.okvintagecameras.com and www.fedka.com
Ok, maybe searching at ".com" would have been more succesful than ".de". :bang:
Thank you for the other 2!