Black vs Aluminium Jupiters

[Kozhe]

Hi everybody!

I´m tempted to buy some Jupiter lenses, 3, 12 and 9 and I wonder if someone can give me some input about what version should I get, old aluminium or newer black models.

They told me the black ones have newer coated lenses that are more effective against lens flare but I also think someone told me someday older models were better made.

Any advise guys? 🙂

 

[Dave Wilkinson]

Hi everybody!

I´m tempted to buy some Jupiter lenses, 3, 12 and 9 and I wonder if someone can give me some input about what version should I get, old aluminium or newer black models.

They told me the black ones have newer coated lenses that are more effective against lens flare but I also think someone told me someday older models were better made.

Any advise guys? 🙂

It's been discussed here to the point of tedium! - and basicly it's a lottery!...you pay your money and take a chance! 🙄

 

[brachal]

Mostly it depends on the sample you get. I would evaluate each lens individually ... I've got a black 80's J-8 that's great ... feels sturdier than 60's chrome lenses that are supposedly superior. I've got chrome lenses that are good performers in spite of their advanced age. You really have to take each lens and evaluate it individually. I think decent J-12s are fairly easy to find. Finding a decent J-3 or J-9 is usually difficult due to their speed and complexity. It's not a sure thing, but you'll improve your chances if you avoid auction sites and buy from fedka or Oleg at okvintagecamera.

 

[xayraa33]

yup, it is a lottery and a well discussed one at that.
lousy soft, uncollimated, flarey,gummed up helix FSU lenses come in black or silver exterior.
made from early 1950s to early 1990s.

once in a while you land a good one and you hold on to it.
my ratio is around six dogs to every one gem.

 

[Santafecino]

Kozhe--
Maybe I have better luck, but I've been able to assemble a suite of LTM Russian lenses--mostly silver--that perform well and cost very little. I think the key point is that after you buy a lens, you must have it serviced, so that it is lubricated well and collimated to focus with your camera. Skip the service, and it's a toss-up whether your lens works. But for an additional $20 or so you can rely on the results.
--Lindsay

 

[xayraa33]

J-3s and J-9s are more risky than other FSU rf lenses, especially the LTM ones.
an RFF bought Jupiter-3 for instance that has been Sweeneyfied or Coxonized stands more of a chance of not being a disappointment and a waste of good money(your mileage may vary) that could have went towards the purchase price of a superb german or japanese vintage RF optic.

 

[ZorkiKat]

One more thing:black Jupiter 8 (and 3?) are simplified versions of the 'white' aluminium oldies. In the old J-8, the front doesn't rotate when the lens is focused. Ditto with the cam. In the later black J-8 both front and coupling cam turn as the lens is focused. Disadvantageous? Yes in a sense- sometimes you won't like to have your filter turning as the lens focuses. Or you might be concerned about how the continuous rubbing the camera's RF sensor tip gets with the turning lens coupling cam as it turns during focusing.

White aluminium older lenses tend to be better. Worn used ones, with maybe with minute hairline scratches would be good- these mean that the lenses got used a lot and worked.

 

[Kozhe]

Thanks everybody! 🙂

So it´s more a matter of luck, trusty sellers and aesthetics eh?

 

[Dave Wilkinson]

Thanks everybody! 🙂

So it´s more a matter of luck, trusty sellers and aesthetics eh?

Yes!- as the old story goes......a lot depends on how much vodka Boris and Ivan consumed before their shift on the assembly line! 😀 - but seriously, my 1958 alloy Jupiter 8 gives very nice results.
Dave.

 

[Spider67]

Just tested some of my J 8's on my Bessa R2 (whose adapter was made for FSU lenses)
The black ones showed decent results. But is simply could not screw on the silver ones. When used with FSU's I could see no difference in their performance. The "chrome" ones are more prone to damage eg. One fell to the floor, it still gives great results, but at 3,5m there is a bit of resistance when focussing.

 

[funkaoshi]

I think your best bet is to buy these lenses from Fedka. Pay a little premium to know that someones at least checked to make sure they will work properly on an M. I have a J3, which I love, that was fixed by Brian Sweeney, a user here. J3s are all kinds of awesome.

 

[peter_n]

As most point out sample variation is the main factor. I have a J-8 and an Industar-10 that are good but I think it was just pure luck. The optics are often really good, it's the mechanics that are poor on these lenses.

 

[Janos]

Hey,
Im new in this forum and an absolut beginner in RF stuff. Where do you get your lenses from?
Any secret hints or places? 😀

 

[Spyderman]

Janos: It's a secret. It's called eBay. But don't tell anyone ! 😀

PS: also www.okvintagecameras.com and www.fedka.com

 

[Janos]

Janos: It's a secret. It's called eBay. But don't tell anyone ! 😀

PS: also www.okvintagecameras.com and www.fedka.com

Ok, maybe searching at ".com" would have been more succesful than ".de". :bang:

Thank you for the other 2!