Blue cast

[Moto-Uno]

These were both taken with the same camera(Kodak Medalist 1)
and on the same roll of Fuji Provia 100 f . Is there a filter that would prevent this blue cast( on the waterfall picture) from happening,keeping in mind that
it's a rangefinder. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Regards,Peter

 

[Dwig]

These were both taken with the same camera(Kodak Medalist 1)
and on the same roll of Fuji Provia 100 f . Is there a filter that would prevent this blue cast( on the waterfall picture) from happening...

It's hard to guess precisely, but using the skyline picture for reference my guess would be an 81b, possibly an 81c (slightly stronger) or 81a (slightly weaker). These ware Wratten designations. The 81b is roughly the equivalent of an A3 or R3 from manufacturers who base their designations on the decimired scale (A for "amber or "R" for red are the common prefixes for warming filters and the number is the strength).

 

[charjohncarter]

Or you could scan, and then with PSE go to color variations and decrease blue.

 

[Moto-Uno]

I'm a fan of trying to get it right on the tranny, so I guess a filter is my method of choice. Are the "warming" filters preferred over say a skylight filter to reduce the blue?

 

[Dwig]

... Are the "warming" filters preferred over say a skylight filter to reduce the blue?

Definitely! The effect of a Skylight/1a filter is trivial with modern films if it has any effect at all. The Wratten 81 series warming filters, or their decamired equivalents, are what you need.

 

[lynnb]

Just wondering if this is a lens problem or a film problem? Has it happened with more than one roll of Provia, from different batch numbers and with different storage conditions?

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

Just wondering if this is a lens problem or a film problem? Has it happened with more than one roll of Provia, from different batch numbers and with different storage conditions?

Yeah these are way too blue, I bet the lab messed up the processing or the film was badly outdated or had been exposed to a lot of heat.

 

[sevo]

It is a bit too blue for a colour temperature issue (where CR filters would help). If any, it must be UV, but the setting does not seem particularly UV prone, and the Medalist lens is five element and unlikely to be unusually UV transparent. I mostly know that problem from basic meniscus or triplet lenses, where a UV-caused blue cast is quite common when shooting them at high altitude or in seaside or desert settings.

Is the film expired, and who did the processing? Are all frames affected, and is there a cast in the margins as well?

 

[Michel154]

+1 for lab error

 

[Moto-Uno]

Thanks for all the replies,first the film was bought at Beau Photo in Vancouver,all their tranny film is refrigerated (as it was at my house), it was two more years to it's expiration date, and all shots were within a week of loading it. ABC Photocolour in Vancouver did the processing (always excellent work). However it was bright those days with cloudy periods. It's happened on a few shots on different rolls,never all the shots,many were just fine thanks to my new Sekonic twinmate. As for excess heat, we can only dream of that here in Vancouver in the autumn. The lab guys remarked it looked like
the lighting,which kinda brings me back to filters for what I'm starting to think
is a result of the cloudy periods these may well have been taken under. It's a never ending learning curve.
Regards,Peter

 

[Dwig]

Yeah these are way too blue, I bet the lab messed up the processing or the film was badly outdated or had been exposed to a lot of heat.

I think we are seeing some additional color error due to poorly adjusted scans. The OP says some pix on every roll are fine. Only a few images are excessively blue. The waterfall shot is much more blue than the skyline.

Processing and film storage will cause all images to be off color, not just a few. The OP's waterfall shot fails because it is in shade lit by only a blue or overcasrt sky sky, no sun. In such situations the image would normally be a bit cool. A warming filter on those shots is what is called for. Film can't automagically adjust its white balance. When you shoot color neg, the lab will make adjustments when printing. When you shoot chromes you have to make the correction when you shoot or accept what corrections you can make when/if you scan to a digital file.