Buenos Aires - yes, another travel thread

[morgan]

I know these are always everybody's favorite 😀

So we're off to Buenos Aires in a few weeks. My wife thinks I'm nuts for bringing so much camera stuff. Here's what I thought:

Epson R-D1, R3A (with 100 speed color), R with (1600 b&w).
35 1.2
one of my 50's
cv 21/4 (not purchased yet)

I love my R-D1, but I don't like 1600 on it. And nothing beats reala. So too much? My wife would rather I bring my 30D and 17-55 2.8 IS (which is an awesome lens, but huge). But I figure I sorta double my money with the R-D1 because of the crop factor. And I'll probably only have one film body on me at a time...

I know the R-D1 could probably do it all, but...

 

[ruben]

Hi Morgan,
Tp me it sounds top less gear. and the Epson too expensive for risking in a city like Buenos Aires. If you still have an older SLR film family - that will be my best choice.

If not, avoid the city downtown by any means.

Cheers,
Ruben

 

[sevres_babylone]

I loved using my R-D1 in Mexico City, Paris and El Salvador. On the latter two trips, I had my XA as back-up, and barely used. I would take the R-D1 and one other body.

I am interested in this thread because I would like to go to Buenos Aires within the next couple of years.

 

[takeda72]

I am from Brazil, but now I live in Buenos Aires.

I think that there is no problem to come here and bring your RD1. I carry my Leica M all the time with me. Just pay more attention in the Boca neighboordhood and in the downtown, specially in the Florida Street.

If you need some tips, I will be happy to write to you.

Have a safe trip.

Best.

 

[ruben]

I am from Brazil, but now I live in Buenos Aires.

I think that there is no problem to come here and bring your RD1. I carry my Leica M all the time with me. Just pay more attention in the Boca neighboordhood and in the downtown, specially in the Florida Street.

If you need some tips, I will be happy to write to you.

Have a safe trip.

Best.

Well, I agree everything is relative after all. Thus if you are a 2meter tall body built folk at your thirties, you may be more confident.

But if you are a normal sized TOURIST, who will be spotted as such, your situation would be different than that of a local folk.

Then, we can fairly assume that digital gadgets may highly appeal to thiefs, while highly expensive analogue gear will not, at all.

Cheers,
Ruben

 

[takeda72]

Well, I agree everything is relative after all. Thus if you are a 2meter tall body built folk at your thirties, you may be more confident.

But if you are a normal sized TOURIST, who will be spotted as such, your situation would be different than that of a local folk.

Then, we can fairly assume that digital gadgets may appeal to thiefs, while highly expensive analogue one will not, at all.

Cheers,
Ruben

I understand your point. I am son of japaneses... so everywhere I go everyone thiks I am a tourist.

The RD1 is not like the DSLRS. It looks more like an analog camera.

Of course you have to take care, but Buenos Aires is very safe. Yes, this is South America. Yes, the country is living another economy crisis. But Argentina is a beautiful country with great people.

 

[morgan]

Thanks for the input guys. I'm not too nervous about having the R-D1 stolen. I can't control what happens to me, but I obviously take precautions. I bought it to use, and use it I must! I may just bring one of my film cameras though. Two is probably too many.

Andre - I'd love to hear some recommendations for BA on maybe live music clubs, cafes, bars. We're staying at the 725 Continental. I love the images on your flickr, by the way, beautiful stuff. Both the composition and the image quality.

 

[xayraa33]

I would bring my Kiev 4 to Buenos Aires.
No Argentinian in his right mind would want an old Ukrainian camera.

 

[morgan]

Ruben - you're right about tourists sticking out. That's one reason why I don't want to bring my Canon. It's just too conspicuous. The R-D1 isn't an eyegrabber at all, except for people in the know. I've had people who claim to be photo gear snobs who, having handled my R-D1, still say things like "I don't know why you stick with film" and then hand it back to me. I never use the LCD, it's always flipped around. For me, it really is a digital film camera.

BA sounds/looks like a great city, and we can't wait to get there. It's been called the next Prague or Berlin. It looks super exciting. It's our first trip to South America, we've been to europe many times, but with the plunging dollar, we looked elsewhere and BA seems to fit the bill.

 

[morgan]

I would bring my Kiev 4 to Buenos Aires.
No Argentinian in his right mind would want an old Ukrainian camera.

Actually, my Kiev 4 takes amazing shots. That lens is to die for and the shutter is whisper quiet. Unfortunately it's developed a little leak and film loading is a hassle when shooting a lot.

 

[morgan]

Hi Morgan,
Tp me it sounds top less gear. and the Epson too expensive for risking in a city like Buenos Aires. If you still have an older SLR film family - that will be my best choice.

If not, avoid the city downtown by any means.

Cheers,
Ruben

OTOH, I have been really close to going for a Nikon Fe2 🙂

 

[kxl]

I honestly do NOT understand the logic of going through the expense of owning top notch gear, then keeping it at home. If someone is worried about theft or loss, then insure the gear.

I just came back from a trip to Egypt, Jordan and Israel, and went to places in Cairo & Giza (see my Cairo & Giza gallery on my website) that may look rough, but were actually very safe. And trust me, no one mistook me for a local.

I had with me similar gear (almost identical, in fact), and my only regret was bringing that much gear and so much film, since I ended up using the R-D1s and CV 35/1.2 for the majority of the time.

Don't know what you like to shoot or your individual style, but, if I were in your shoes, I would bring: R-D1S + CV 35/1.2, R3A + 50mm (loaded with B&W film) and a wide lens (the CV 21 would be good). IOW, I'd leave the R at home. 2 bodies, 3 lenses and 2 rolls of film/day should suffice. Oh, and obviously several SD cards and a portable back up device.

Now, you might say, what's one more body? From a weight or bulk perspective, not much. But I would hate to have 3 kits with me when out on the street. Sometimes, deciding which kit to whip out of your bag costs you that once in a lifetime shot.

Good luck!

 

[morgan]

Nice shots, Keith. I was in Egypt years ago when I was in high school and it was amazing. I loved it, what a place.

I think I'm going to carry the R-D1 with a 35, the R2A with the 21mm and a 50.

 

[35mmdelux]

do you speak Spanish?

 

[SolaresLarrave]

Keep in mind that you will walk a lot. Simplify your gear, you don't need a studio in a backpack. If you don't have a long lens, shoot with a standard and crop afterwards.

Now, nice places to photograph:

the San Telmo neighborhood (where Argentines defended their city almost house by house against the Brits in 1812 or thereabouts),

La Boca (a very much Argentine, working class neighborhood, with gaudy colored houses and distinctive architecture). Also notable

Avenida 9 de julio: the widest in the world (or so they say).

Don't miss the Plaza de Mayo in the downtown area. Not far from it there's a building called "Barolo" (if I remember correctly). You'll find it on your way down the Avenida de Mayo, from the "Casa Rosada" (the equivalent of the White House in Argentina); it's worth a stop.

Also, IIRC, in the Avenida de Mayo there's a cafe where writers and intellectuals used (and still use) to hang out: the Tortoni. Nice place, snooty waiters, lots of tradition.

Beware of the mustard trick: we know it because it was played on us, but fortunately, we had been warned about it. As you walk down the street, you may feel something in your arm that may be kinda sticky. In no time you'll have two young, apparently harmless people, offering you paper napkins to wipe the mess and moaning about "those uncouth Peruvians" that only come to play pranks on the visitors. If you accept their help, by the time they leave (after shaking hands with you), you'll see that they did wipe you clean because your wallet and valuables are gone. They can out-pickpocket the champion of pickpockets! 😱

That said, if you look like you know what you're doing, it all will be fine.

San Telmo has a nice flea market on weekends too. During the week, it's a lower middle-class place with lots of unpretentious stores and restaurants.

And, speaking of restaurants, if you are in a good steak place, order "bife de chorizo": it simply beats anything you may have tasted in an American steak house. It's like a porterhouse without bone... and incredibly tender! 🙂 Don't let the name "chorizo" mislead you: it's good, reliable, incredibly tasty beef. And the Quilmes beer is something worth drinking by the liter... although, now that I realize, you'll be there during their winter (mid 50s to mid 60s F and "porteños" wear scarves).

Argentine delicacy for those with a sweet tooth: alfajores (can be described as a sandwich made with cookies similar to shortbread and "dulce de leche"). Aim for those known as "artesanales" whenever you find, but the common ones can be purchased all over the place. To me, the best are the "Havana" brand. Some are dipped in confectioners' sugar, others in chocolate. No matter which you pick, it's sinfully good!

Sorry about it. One can tell I liked BA. 🙂 Enjoy the trip!

 

[urban_alchemist]

Hi Morgan,

If not, avoid the city downtown by any means.

Cheers,
Ruben

I think you overstate the danger of Buenos-Aires a little! Yes, there are some areas that you need to beware after dark (La Boca, San Telmo etc), but during the day, the whole city is very, very safe. Compared to the rest of South America, Buenos-Aires is not a dangerous city.

Like any other place, discretion and common sense is advised, but there is really nothing to worry about, and in most of the places a tourist will be at night (Recoletta, Palermo etc) you'll be more in danger of someone buying you a drink to discuss your gear, than stealing it...

Enjoy BA - it is one of my favourite cities. I try to spend at least a month a year in Argentina (my dad is Argentine), and find it one of the friendliest, most beautiful countries on earth (if also one of the most screwed up). If you can, try and get out of the city for a few days - the rolling Pampas are beautiful, as is the Andes city of Salta (a forty-minute flight), the falls of Iguazu and the rugged wasetlands of Patagonia.

Damn... now I've got to start planning my trip in October! 😀

 

[mike kim]

As long as you never let your gear unattended (or dress like an obvious tourist), I think you're safe. This is something I wrote in another thread about Buenos Aires some time ago. I hope you find it useful:

be careful about street shooting in buenos aires. nobody will care about you and no one will confront you like in the USA. on the contrary, most people smile while looking at the camera or just look away (they will just know you're a tourist, they're used to it). that's a nice thing about street photography here.

however, as everyone knows you're a tourist, everyone will know you're an easy target. in downtown always wear your camera and bag bandolero style (or wrap the strap around your hand or wrist) and always have it closed and on your side/front, never resting on your back. some people on bikes and motorcycles can steal your cell phone/camera/bag while riding and take off so fast you'll never see it again. i've seen this many times.

robberies and pickpockets are common in buenos aires. it happened to me and my girlfriend one night while walking on a very crowded street that attracts many tourists (florida st); after walking for a while her cell phone had been stolen and we didn't even notice.

just be aware of your equipment, never leave it unattended, and you'll be fine. check out this link from the US embassy for more info: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1130.html

from that link:

A common scam is to spray mustard or a similar substance on the tourist from a distance. A pickpocket will then approach the tourist offering to help clean the stain, and while doing so, he or an accomplice robs the victim. Thieves regularly nab unattended purses, backpacks, laptops and luggage and criminals will often distract visitors for a few seconds to steal valuables. While most American victims are not physically injured when robbed, criminals typically do not hesitate to use force when they encounter resistance. Visitors are advised to immediately hand over all cash and valuables if confronted. Thieves will target visitors wearing expensive watches or jewelry.

this has happened to me as well. being asian, they thought i was a tourist but i immediately knew something was wrong and refused to get their help. it's quite funny cause a week later i got an email from the us embassy with this information (i'm a US citizen)...

having all this in mind... buenos aires is great for black and white street photography, and people are usually very nice and willing to help. oh and the food... i'd spend the rest of my life here just for the food. be sure to go to a restaurant and have a "parrillada" or "asado" and you'll know what i mean 😉 the cheapest meat you can buy here is better than the most expensive meat you get in korea or USA (in my experience).

check out my site for some pics in the city. http://www.mumuki.com

a typical scene in downtown buenos aires. some guys having lunch and a protest behind them. i'm going to california in june and i'm worried about street photography there... i'll miss this city's craziness.

 

[EmilGil]

It seems that BA is not very different from any other major city in the world. There are extremely skilled pick-pockets in Rome, London, Paris and just about any other city of that size. I'll have to agree with Keith, what's the point of having expensive gear that'll withstand an earthquake and pouring rain if you're going to leave it at home all the time?

I'm going to Argentina in late October and I'll be there for about five weeks. I don't think I'll be spending much time in BA as there are many other tempting places to go to; Mendoza, Talampaya, Peninsula Valdes, Cerro Torres, Perito Moreno, Tierra del Fuego etc etc. All suggestions on where to go and not to are extremely welcome.

If either of you are in Buenos Aires the last days of October, I'd be happy to buy you a drink!

 

[ruben]

I honestly do NOT understand the logic of going through the expense of owning top notch gear, then keeping it at home. .....

... I'm not too nervous about having the R-D1 stolen. .....

Sincerely speaking these above quoted statements represent a consistent attitude.

Had I shared such attitude, I too would vote in favour of Morgan's choice. My attitude is different, or rather opposite, and hence the discussion.

I don't find any good in defending my approach here, therefore as far as I am concerned I wish Morgan a good trip. I am sure this thread has contributed a little bit to make Morgan a bit more sure about his approach, which will include taking care of his gear.

Best,
Ruben

 

[morgan]

Thanks everyone (including Ruben of course, thanks for looking out for me) for the great tips, photos and info. I've read about the mustard trick, so we'll be on the alert, and we'll take care at night in those areas. I hope we don't totally stand out as tourists - no fanny packs, bad american sports team shirts, baseball hats, all that crap. It's just not who we are in general. But having lived in cities, you can usually tell who's a tourist no matter what they're wearing. And we've both traveled a lot, so I'm not super concerned safety-wise. I speak enough spanish to get us around (hopefully), although this is my first time to a spanish-speaking country.

Interesting side note - there's no google map data for Argentina.