Bummer - rangefinder out of adjustment

S

SRMC

Guest
I'm now thoroughly bummed. I bought a used R without running a test roll through it and have since learned that the RF is out of adjustment. Don't worry, I didn't buy it from anyone here, and if I had, I am 100% sure that any such fault would have been disclosed.

After having it the R for a while I noticed that I had trouble shooting it with various lenses wide open. The area in focus would be behind where I thought I had focused. This is great if you want someone's nose and eyes to be soft but their ears to be sharp. Because the vertical alignment of the RF was off I thought that I was just not being careful enough when focusing and had been fooled by the misalignment. I adjusted the vertical alignment and thought that all would be well. . . . alas it was not. I continued to be plagued by focusing problems. Over the weekend I got out the tape measure and shot a test roll. I tried shots at various apertures with the focus according to the RF patch, and others according by measuring distance from the film plane and making the corresponding setting on the lens. Those taken accorting to the RF were off, but those I measured were ok. For example, at 3.5 feet, with the 35/1.7 Ultron, if I focused with the RF, the area of sharpest focus was 2-3 inches behind where it should be. But if I set the lens according to my measured distance, it was ok. The same held true with my J-8 and 90/4 Elmar at both close distances and approx. 7 feet.

Now I need to decide whether to send it to DAG or Golden Touch or give it a try myself. My preferred local shop won't touch it. I just hate to spend another couple hundred dollars to get it fixed. It is just a pretty paperweight right now. The sad thing is my Zorki 4, with the supposed inconsistent quality control of FSU factories, works like a charm and has given nothing but pleasant experiences.

SRMC
 
It's not very hard to adjust the rangefinder alignment yourself, and I'd say it's not really worth paying for shipping and service just to get it done. In my experience, the knocks the package takes along the way to you can often throw the rangefinder out of alignment, so the seller wasn't necessarily being dishonest. I've had it happen with a Leica M, and I'm sure the Bessa is probably more susceptible to the problem.
 
You might check with Stephen Gandy (CameraQuest). Mine's still under warranty and he would charge me $15 plus shipping for an RF adjustment. So perhaps he wouldn't charge you so much more. You could ask him.
 
I bought it as from a local reputable shop as a consignment item so there was no potential for damage in shipping. I can rule that out. The bottom line is that I should have run a test roll through it before I bought it. As it was a consignment item I don't place any blame on the shop either. I certainly don't expect them to test all of their consigned cameras.

I'll have to check with Mr. Gandy before I touch it. I wouldn't want to make it worse. I just hate having to box up and mail something breakable.

SRMC
 
Rangefinder adjustment on my R was not a big trick. The trickiest part of the whole job was removal of the little black protective plate over the flash shoe WITHOUT scratching it. (I scratched mine.) After that was accomplished it was simple. Both the horizontal and vertical adjustment screws are pretty easily accessed after the three screws in the hot shoe are removed. They are very tiny screws and you'll want to remember which hole the two shorter screws go in. (The vertical adjust screw is down inside of one of the holes). If you try the do it yourself, be sure to set the lens to infinity and point the rangefinder patch at something very far away (at least few blocks). I wouldn't send my R off for a RF adjustment. After you do the adjustment once, you'll be prepaired to do it again should the camera need it. A tripod would be handy but not a requirement.
 
My R3A also needs adjustment. Having tried a little and allready caused small scratches, I just want to check with you: See picture:

Is this where you bend away the metal plate?
 
I got it. It seams however the RF adjustment screws are not according to Anons Bessa R? Or i just dont understand he desciption of their positions. Posting two pictures including a marvel of technical drawing by me.

What I would like to do is to correct the vertical alignment. Does anyone know which screw that would be, 1,2 or 3?

Anders
 
I've made a promise not to tell - but I will say DON'T TOUCH NUMBER ONE!
 
Hej Kneedropper,

OK, I'm GUESSING screw #2 then?

It is very dark and narrow to see anything down the small hole. But as far as I see it looks like the screw goes thru a oval hole in a bracket, and down to whatever the thread is in. If this is the case: The oval hole makes the screw a fastener, not an adjustment screw. The adjustment would be done by loosening the screw, and then moving the bracket somehow?
 
A m ember of the RFF named "Kabkos" once emailed me with instructions. I recall something about taking out the screws and making sure you know which goes back in which hole. One will be longer, again as I recall. Apparently under one of the screws is the adjustment screw.

If you do find it I believe you then take it outside, aim the camera at something distant, and adjust.

I have no idea what I did with the instructions. Probably punched the wrong computer key.

Ted
 
Adjusting the rangefinder in a R3A. When looking down the "hole" with the camera back towards you. on the lower right is a screw with a spring under it, that is the rangefinder azimuth (vertical) adjustment. On the lower left you will see 2 screws with green lacquer (at least that is what is on mine), these adjust the horizontal rangefinder spot, the screws are in an oval or eliptical slot and turning one slides the bracket back and forth. I recommend adjusting the one closest to the center of the "hole", the other one is for adjusting the close focus points (typical rangefinder adjustment is done at 5', 15', 30' and infinity. so that the rangefinder follows the cam curve for the Leica mount lenses). When I adjusted my R3A, I found that the far lacquered screw is for the close focus adjustment. I did find that adjusting the azimuth did have a minor affect on the horizontal, so it is one of those back and forth adjustments before you get is all set. Took me about 15 minutes of tweaking. Also, after making an adjustment I found it is a good idea to focus your lens the full range (close to far and then back to close then to far) so that the rangefinder seats in.

Good luck.
karl
 
Thanks Karl, now we're talking! Your desciption is far the best I have got or found.

I will start with the azimut/vertical and see if this helps.

If I want to test the close focus points, can you or someone tell me:

1. You mention 5', 15', 30' . Is that feet or inches? I would have thought Voigtländer used cm?

2. Is the distance measured from the film plane?

Anders
 
Anders - just a quick answer to no.2: Yes. (The biggest mistake people make is measurig the distance from the front of the lens. On some cameras there's even a mark on the top plate like a circle with a line through it, marking the film plane position inside the camera.)
 
Ha! Fantastic! How easy it was to adjust the vertical alignment. The load on that screw spring is really small, no wonder a transport can vibrate it out of position.

Now the image in the viewfinder is sharp and focusing will be much easier/faster.

Thanks Pherdinand.

I still wonder how to go about to test the horizontal alignment. I guess you need to use film and take pictures of a yard (meter) stick?

Anders (now sharper)
 
You can test it without film.
Put the camera on a tripod. Use a cable release and B(ulb) (i hope it's possible with the bessa). Put the widest-aperture lens you have on. Open it up fully. Take another lens you have, as short of focal length as possible, to use it as a strong loupe.
Open the film door. Put a piece of semi-transparent material on the film guiding rails. You can use frosted Scotch tape, gorund glass, whatever that can be used to project an image on it and view it from the back. Frosted tape is the easiest but be sure it lays flat, not lose and not too stretched over the frame.
Focus on something using the image and the loupe; check if the rangefinder is also focused. Check close objects and infinity too.
 
Aha! This I must test. Thanks again Pherdinand.

(yes, the R3A has B shutter option)

I also found this description on how to check the infinity setting indoors, using a laser pointer. Very cool since it motivates me to get yet another technical gadget. Maybe not as accurate as pointing at a star? But worth trying when I'm already working on it:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0057lY

Anders
 
The horizontal measurements I gave were in feet and are the settings used for adjusting a Kalart rangefinder on the Graflex cameras (but the settings are similar to what Leica uses for adjusting their rangefinders). I have a WWII autocolimator with artificial infinity and artificial 5', 15' and 30' settings. The instruction book for the autocollimator does have instructions for setting the rangefinder for Leica cameras. I doubt that the horizontal adjustment on your camera is out because it would take one heck of a knock to the camera in order to cause the plate to shift. Whereas the azimuth adjustment is held in position by a very soft spring and vibration could easily cause the screw to rotate. I think Cosina engineers could have improved on the design by putting a thrust collar on the top of the spring so that the constant upward spring compression would not allow the screw to want to unscrew. Another alternative would have been for the designers to install a lock down to hold the adjustment in place. If you look at a Canon 7 or 7S rangefinder, they had a similar problem and Canon solved it by going to a rotating prism design in the 7SZ. But considering the cost of the Cosina cameras, I think they did a wonderful job of designing a camera within an affordable price range.

karl
 
I took some time last night to adjust the rangefinder. I'll have to wait until this weekend to shoot a test roll. I taped a black X on a wall and used that to adjust and test the rangefinder at 3.5, 5, and IIRC 12 feet, and used a tower 1/4 mile away for infinity. At this point, using a tape measure and the film plane marking on the top plate, the rangefinder appears spot-on. Only a test roll will tell for sure. When adjusting and testing, I used a 90/4 Elmar as the adjustments are finer than on a shorter lens. I then again tested it with a 35 Ultron.

To make the adjustments I removed the portion of the shoe to gain access to the adjustment screws. I didn't remove the entire top plate. If I need to do that I'd rather just send it in to be adjusted. Contrary to what I read elsewhere, what some have described as the lock-down screw, which is the slotted screw in the center, appears to be on an eccentric that moves the horizontal adjustment back and forth. The small rearmost philips head screw is what seemed to lock everything down.

I gently loosened the rearmost philips screw and used the larger slotted to adjust for infinity. Using both the slotted and philips screw I then fine tuned the adjustment at 3.5 feet until it was correct. I continued playing with it until I was happy with it at 3.5, 5, 12 feet and infinity.

I certainly am not an authority on camera repair, nor do I have access to any CV service manuals. If you want to try this yourself you do so at your own risk. This is only what I have tried and observed and nothing more. If I have messed things up, I'll be sure to follow up so you guys and gals can tell me how silly I was . . .

SRMC
(hoping I didn't screw up my beloved Bessa)
 
Bess R rangefinder alignment--DIY

Bess R rangefinder alignment--DIY

Hello All,


Does anybody know of--or can post a link to--a page with The Definitive instructions on aligning the rangefinder in the Bessa R?

I ask because it would be great to have concise, illustrated instructions on doing the alignment, and since there are some differences between the R2, R3 internals, etc., it would be all the better to have good instructions for the R.

- CJ
 
I thought I would bring this back up again. Is there any difference in the ajusting of the R, R2, R3, and R4? Stephen if you read this it would be great to have you comment here or just start a new thread and make it a sticky.


Im capeable of screwing around and getting stuff to work but it would be nice to know exactly how to do this as its the most commen problem thats raised on the Bessa cameras.
 
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