Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
I was using my first 1L Jobo/Telenal C-41 kit for two years and 20+ films. I would't call it as short lifespan.
zauhar
Veteran
Great work! I do wonder along the lines of joeswe's comments as to how much the scanner software tried to 'correct' the color balance, and how darkroom prints would work out.
I bought a used Jobo as I use C-41 for both color and B&W - Ilford XP2 seems to have become my favorite film. (Actually I think the controlled agitation improves results even for conventional B&W.)
I also can do color prints with it (even though working with no safelight is a pain in the ass).
Petronius, if you can't make color darkroom prints, you can send me one of your 'abused' color negs and I will see how it prints, and if color cast can be corrected.
Randy
I bought a used Jobo as I use C-41 for both color and B&W - Ilford XP2 seems to have become my favorite film. (Actually I think the controlled agitation improves results even for conventional B&W.)
I also can do color prints with it (even though working with no safelight is a pain in the ass).
Petronius, if you can't make color darkroom prints, you can send me one of your 'abused' color negs and I will see how it prints, and if color cast can be corrected.
Randy
Murray Kelly
Well-known
joeswe; just call me a cynic. It's shorter than your reply.
I had colour casts with reversal almost 60 years ago and that was enough. Now they scan them anyway and do we really know if there wasn't a colour-cast correction by the 1-hour lab?
I had colour casts with reversal almost 60 years ago and that was enough. Now they scan them anyway and do we really know if there wasn't a colour-cast correction by the 1-hour lab?
mdarnton
Well-known
We tend to forget that analog color was a rough approximation of color, and if you wanted a really nice print, you did it by dye transfer, where all of those little twitches of the chemical process could be straightened out. Films were chosen (and manufactured) with different color qualities because the end user had to choose his evils according to his subject matter.
Now we hold analog up as some wonderful forgotten past, but it wasn't that great--it was a bunch of problems disguised as choices. People glorify themselves for hanging around in dark smelly rooms making prints. I did that for 40 years, and you couldn't drag me back.
Now we hold analog up as some wonderful forgotten past, but it wasn't that great--it was a bunch of problems disguised as choices. People glorify themselves for hanging around in dark smelly rooms making prints. I did that for 40 years, and you couldn't drag me back.
Kent
Finally at home...
It's interesting and probably a rather philosophical discussion. As joeswe said, if you want to have exact and reproducable results, you need to follow the precise formula.
But we see with petronius' photos that you can get images out of film that are developed at really different temparatures. Even stand development! Man, I would not have thougth that!
What that does to me is reducing the fear of doing something wrong with C-41 home development. I cannot get 38°, for whatever reason? Doesn't matter, I still can go ahead.
So, thank you for that!
But we see with petronius' photos that you can get images out of film that are developed at really different temparatures. Even stand development! Man, I would not have thougth that!
What that does to me is reducing the fear of doing something wrong with C-41 home development. I cannot get 38°, for whatever reason? Doesn't matter, I still can go ahead.
So, thank you for that!
mdarnton
Well-known
Yes! After reading this thread yesterday I ordered some C41 chems! This is definitely worth trying.
nukecoke
⚛Yashica
About Tetenal C41 Kit
If you just scan and view on-screen, your scanning software can correct anything non-catastrophic easily (e.g. Auto Level), as long as you pay reasonably amount of attention to temperature and time.
I followed the manual about the developing temperature all the time, but not strictly, something like 38±3 °C for both Developer and Blix. I made manage to develop 30 rolls out of the 1 liter kit. The first 28 rolls are fine, with the last two rolls looking underexposed and with strange cast. I'd suggest 25 roll if you don't want any funky colours.
result from recent roll, fujicolor c200, newly mixed kit:
Scan-160112-0028 by , 於 Flickr
If you just scan and view on-screen, your scanning software can correct anything non-catastrophic easily (e.g. Auto Level), as long as you pay reasonably amount of attention to temperature and time.
I followed the manual about the developing temperature all the time, but not strictly, something like 38±3 °C for both Developer and Blix. I made manage to develop 30 rolls out of the 1 liter kit. The first 28 rolls are fine, with the last two rolls looking underexposed and with strange cast. I'd suggest 25 roll if you don't want any funky colours.
result from recent roll, fujicolor c200, newly mixed kit:
Scan-160112-0028 by , 於 Flickrmwoenv
Well-known
This approach may work out well if you scan and make inkjet prints but I would not do it to make RA4 prints, which is how I make prints.
If you develop at 20C. and maintain this temperature in the developer step you may get consistent negatives (density, color balance) but since you mentioned not really controlling temperature, your negatives will vary from roll to roll. Correcting from roll to roll may be easy if you scan and make inkjet prints but having to determine the correct color filtration settings and exposure time for each roll to make RA4 prints would be too time consuming. In my experience, with consistent development per the chemical supplier's recommendations, RA4 prints rarely even require test prints.
If you develop at 20C. and maintain this temperature in the developer step you may get consistent negatives (density, color balance) but since you mentioned not really controlling temperature, your negatives will vary from roll to roll. Correcting from roll to roll may be easy if you scan and make inkjet prints but having to determine the correct color filtration settings and exposure time for each roll to make RA4 prints would be too time consuming. In my experience, with consistent development per the chemical supplier's recommendations, RA4 prints rarely even require test prints.