Gereonb
Gereonb
Hey there,
Background:
My brother is a pro with multiple D3Xs and all that digital jazz, he is quite successful:
Nick bailey
While visiting him i got a bug and decided to buy a £20 Pentax K1000 and get into analog.
I am now 6 rolls of colour 35mm into my adventure, the first two rolls i had developed in a lab for £2 each with reasonable results.
My #2 Roll
I moved to Antwerp Belgium for a new job and decided with some help of the web that i'd like to try C-41 development at home as it really involves very few items and those are all readily available for little money on the web. I have a 1-roll jobo 1510 tank (€30 with bottles and measures) and bought the tetenal C-41 fluids kit (€21.50).
So tonight i got all the chemicals up to 38c in a water bath (kitchen sink) and went for it, the negs are now drying and there are images ! ... woohoo. Ok, the quality remains to be judged .. i will upload them once they are dried and scanned.
Background:
My brother is a pro with multiple D3Xs and all that digital jazz, he is quite successful:
Nick bailey
While visiting him i got a bug and decided to buy a £20 Pentax K1000 and get into analog.
I am now 6 rolls of colour 35mm into my adventure, the first two rolls i had developed in a lab for £2 each with reasonable results.
My #2 Roll
I moved to Antwerp Belgium for a new job and decided with some help of the web that i'd like to try C-41 development at home as it really involves very few items and those are all readily available for little money on the web. I have a 1-roll jobo 1510 tank (€30 with bottles and measures) and bought the tetenal C-41 fluids kit (€21.50).
So tonight i got all the chemicals up to 38c in a water bath (kitchen sink) and went for it, the negs are now drying and there are images ! ... woohoo. Ok, the quality remains to be judged .. i will upload them once they are dried and scanned.
zauhar
Veteran
I got the Rollei kit a couple days ago, I will try it out this weekend.
Best of luck - hope you are happy with your images!
Randy
Best of luck - hope you are happy with your images!
Randy
Gereonb
Gereonb
one thing i learned was that heating up the chemicals is almost impossible if the bath is at the temperature you are aiming for, i had to run the hot water in the bath at about 45c in order to get the chemicals in the bottles to reach the 38c that the developer needs.
Of course once the developer had reached its temp i drained the bath in order that the chemicals don't get too hot.
Of course once the developer had reached its temp i drained the bath in order that the chemicals don't get too hot.
Chris101
summicronia
one thing i learned was that heating up the chemicals is almost impossible if the bath is at the temperature you are aiming for, i had to run the hot water in the bath at about 45c in order to get the chemicals in the bottles to reach the 38c that the developer needs.
Of course once the developer had reached its temp i drained the bath in order that the chemicals don't get too hot.
Or just run cold water into the bath to bring it all into equilibrium.
I am very impressed with the 3 solution C-41 chemistry kits. The results are great. Congrats on taking the plunge!
Gereonb
Gereonb
Chinasaur
Well-known
Clean and sano!
Gratz!
pbo
Established
Very cool 
I also got some color chemicals a few days ago, a Tetenal C-41 press kit of a questionable age (the blix came in one bag - apparently they don't do it that way anymore).
Somewhat surprised and really happy when negatives turned out fine, next step is E-6 at home!
I also got some color chemicals a few days ago, a Tetenal C-41 press kit of a questionable age (the blix came in one bag - apparently they don't do it that way anymore).
Somewhat surprised and really happy when negatives turned out fine, next step is E-6 at home!
bhop73
Well-known
I've been doing my own color for a while now (since my favorite 1hr lab closed). It's much easier than people think.
Gereonb
Gereonb
Bigger scans, i see there is a blue tint to most of the pictures.




Gereonb
Gereonb
I have some reoccurring dots in all the self-developed films. I develop with a Jobo 1510 or a Paterson system 4 Tub.
I am sure it is due to part of the developing process, i have already ruled out the film loading process as i have used different rooms and the same dots appear. I am thinking it could be two things :
- air bubbles during Dev or Blix
- dust during the drying process
Any one got a clue ?, pics below. also the dots appear as bands or in areas, not evenly across the whole frame.
I am sure it is due to part of the developing process, i have already ruled out the film loading process as i have used different rooms and the same dots appear. I am thinking it could be two things :
- air bubbles during Dev or Blix
- dust during the drying process
Any one got a clue ?, pics below. also the dots appear as bands or in areas, not evenly across the whole frame.


MartinP
Veteran
Likely to be either dust or, less likely, suspended matter in one of the liquid stages. As the marks are white on the embedded images, then they are black or very dark on the film. Can you slightly side-light the film and see anything on there using a magnifier?
The place a lot of people dry their negs is in the bathroom/shower-stall, as there is usually a handy rail for hanging the negs and it is easy to steam the room up a little bit to get most of the dust out of the air for a while. This works well for me anyway.
If you come to the conclusion that there is somehow something in the water etc. then that can be filtered through a plastic funnel with a twist of cotton wool in the spout.
Good luck with the next film(s).

The place a lot of people dry their negs is in the bathroom/shower-stall, as there is usually a handy rail for hanging the negs and it is easy to steam the room up a little bit to get most of the dust out of the air for a while. This works well for me anyway.
If you come to the conclusion that there is somehow something in the water etc. then that can be filtered through a plastic funnel with a twist of cotton wool in the spout.
Good luck with the next film(s).
Gereonb
Gereonb
Thanks double, only my 4th or 5th analog film ever.
I am starting to think its in the water or to do with my tanks as on the last time the spots were all in the lower half of the frames. If it was just dust in my bathroom i'd expect it to be evenly spread across the frames.
Going to try and be more precise with the tanks, tap them on the bottom to remove bubbles maybe. I also have a CPE2 so i'll see if the spots disappear with rotary processing.
I am starting to think its in the water or to do with my tanks as on the last time the spots were all in the lower half of the frames. If it was just dust in my bathroom i'd expect it to be evenly spread across the frames.
Going to try and be more precise with the tanks, tap them on the bottom to remove bubbles maybe. I also have a CPE2 so i'll see if the spots disappear with rotary processing.
Gereonb
Gereonb
Its the final rinse thats causing the white spots:
distilled water with the Tetenal Stabiliser is giving smears on the shiny side of the negs and white spots
tap water with two drops of soap is giving same smear and white spots
Next i am going to try some "Britta" filtered tap water with Kodak PhotoFlo as final rinse.
distilled water with the Tetenal Stabiliser is giving smears on the shiny side of the negs and white spots
tap water with two drops of soap is giving same smear and white spots
Next i am going to try some "Britta" filtered tap water with Kodak PhotoFlo as final rinse.
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