Tmas
Member
Encouraged by some recent posts I tried to develope a colour film (Agfa xps 160) in Rodinal 1:100. One hour stand, fix as usual for BW films.
The film came out with very faint images but the base was "thick" brown, hardly transparent. I scanned one frame, but the result after heavy adjustments in PS is far from anything I saw in those posts...
Did I miss something?
Regards, Tmas
The film came out with very faint images but the base was "thick" brown, hardly transparent. I scanned one frame, but the result after heavy adjustments in PS is far from anything I saw in those posts...
Did I miss something?
Regards, Tmas
Attachments
grainy_shadows
Established
alright, so this possible, so what would be the advantages of this process?
ruby.monkey
Veteran
Wrong brand of film? Kodak BW400 CN is the same, whereas Ilford XP2 is fine - it ends up with a purple tint, but is clear enough to scan easily.
Joao
Negativistic forever
Hi
I’ve tried several films with home-brewed paRodinal and was surprised with the results.
Here they are
With Ilford XP2
http://www.flickr.com/photos/joaofreitas/sets/72157606624905040/
With an outdated Slide film
http://www.flickr.com/photos/joaofreitas/sets/72157616007098413/
And with Kodak Gold 200
http://public.fotki.com/BlueWind/parodinal-for-kodak/
The only advantage of these methods is to use old/outdated films in an inexpensive way instead of just discarding them. And I add the fun & surprise of the results I get - for me it counts also. Of course I would not use them for an important subject as there is always the possibility of getting bizarre outcomes…
Regards
Joao
I’ve tried several films with home-brewed paRodinal and was surprised with the results.
Here they are
With Ilford XP2
http://www.flickr.com/photos/joaofreitas/sets/72157606624905040/
With an outdated Slide film
http://www.flickr.com/photos/joaofreitas/sets/72157616007098413/
And with Kodak Gold 200
http://public.fotki.com/BlueWind/parodinal-for-kodak/
The only advantage of these methods is to use old/outdated films in an inexpensive way instead of just discarding them. And I add the fun & surprise of the results I get - for me it counts also. Of course I would not use them for an important subject as there is always the possibility of getting bizarre outcomes…
Regards
Joao
P. Lynn Miller
Well-known
Tmas,
Not sure what you think you are missing... all C-41 color film is made with a brown-orange base as part of the film, no method of development that I know will remove the color from the base except very harsh bleaching which as far as I know will give you a clear piece of acetate with no image whatsoever.
I have processed a lot of C-41 film, because I have hundreds of rolls that I got for next to nothing, which makes it cheaper to shoot than B&W film and I can't be bothered paying money for normal C-41 processing. So I toss the rolls in Rodinal 1:100 for an hour or so and then scan, convert, etc. and etc. and digital print. Cheap and fun, that is all.
More details here - Kodak Gold in Rodinal 1:100 and Raw Scan of Kodak Gold Negative
Hope that helps...
Not sure what you think you are missing... all C-41 color film is made with a brown-orange base as part of the film, no method of development that I know will remove the color from the base except very harsh bleaching which as far as I know will give you a clear piece of acetate with no image whatsoever.
I have processed a lot of C-41 film, because I have hundreds of rolls that I got for next to nothing, which makes it cheaper to shoot than B&W film and I can't be bothered paying money for normal C-41 processing. So I toss the rolls in Rodinal 1:100 for an hour or so and then scan, convert, etc. and etc. and digital print. Cheap and fun, that is all.
More details here - Kodak Gold in Rodinal 1:100 and Raw Scan of Kodak Gold Negative
Hope that helps...
DGA
Well-known
Tmas,
Not sure what you think you are missing... all C-41 color film is made with a brown-orange base as part of the film, no method of development that I know will remove the color from the base except very harsh bleaching which as far as I know will give you a clear piece of acetate with no image whatsoever.
I have processed a lot of C-41 film, because I have hundreds of rolls that I got for next to nothing, which makes it cheaper to shoot than B&W film and I can't be bothered paying money for normal C-41 processing. So I toss the rolls in Rodinal 1:100 for an hour or so and then scan, convert, etc. and etc. and digital print. Cheap and fun, that is all.
More details here - Kodak Gold in Rodinal 1:100 and Raw Scan of Kodak Gold Negative
Hope that helps...
Nice results.
Indeed, this process can save up some bucks.
I'm getting interested
Could you give more details about the process (like temperature and other technical stuff)?
Thanks.
P. Lynn Miller
Well-known
More information than you want to know...
How I Use Rodinal 1:100 Stand
And more about Rodinal 1:100 than you ever to know...
Rodinal 1:100 Thread
How I Use Rodinal 1:100 Stand
And more about Rodinal 1:100 than you ever to know...
Rodinal 1:100 Thread
DGA
Well-known
More information than you want to know...
How I Use Rodinal 1:100 Stand
And more about Rodinal 1:100 than you ever to know...
Rodinal 1:100 Thread
Very interesting.
Thanks P.
Tmas
Member
Sorry for my own late reaction! Was too busy the last days...
Yes, I have a box full of expired 160 Iso/ 12 Exp. films and would like to use them as test and fun films. Without having to pay for dev. and pics!
I will try once more and follow the advice to rinse for a longer time to get rid of the dense colour.
Evtl develope a bit stronger, too.
Thank you for your input!
Best,
Tmas
Yes, I have a box full of expired 160 Iso/ 12 Exp. films and would like to use them as test and fun films. Without having to pay for dev. and pics!
I will try once more and follow the advice to rinse for a longer time to get rid of the dense colour.
Evtl develope a bit stronger, too.
Thank you for your input!
Best,
Tmas
Fotohuis
Well-known
Well you could also start DIY C41 development. It's not very difficult only the C41 chemicals are a bit more expensive then regular B&W chemicals.
C41 dev. 3:15 min
Stop 0:30 min
Blix 6:30 min.
Wash 5:00 min
Stabilizer 1:00 min
The only critical thing is the temperature of 37,8 degrees C. but that's only for the C41 developer. For the rest you can be 2-3 degrees C of that temperature.
Best regards,
Robert
C41 dev. 3:15 min
Stop 0:30 min
Blix 6:30 min.
Wash 5:00 min
Stabilizer 1:00 min
The only critical thing is the temperature of 37,8 degrees C. but that's only for the C41 developer. For the rest you can be 2-3 degrees C of that temperature.
Best regards,
Robert
raid
Dad Photographer
Would it also work with slide film [E6 process]?
Why yes or why no?
Why yes or why no?
P. Lynn Miller
Well-known
Raid,
I am not developed any E-6 film in B&W chemicals myself, but I am pretty sure you would get an image of some sort. Do a quick Flickr search.
John,
One of the reason's I started developing C-41 in Rodinal is because I 'inherited' about 300 rolls of expired C-41 film. I had a few rolls developed in in C-41 chemicals, but the film was already starting to show its age, so I threw a few rolls in Rodinal. The result is a very cheap and fun way to shoot that delivers very nice digital B&W prints.
I am not developed any E-6 film in B&W chemicals myself, but I am pretty sure you would get an image of some sort. Do a quick Flickr search.
John,
One of the reason's I started developing C-41 in Rodinal is because I 'inherited' about 300 rolls of expired C-41 film. I had a few rolls developed in in C-41 chemicals, but the film was already starting to show its age, so I threw a few rolls in Rodinal. The result is a very cheap and fun way to shoot that delivers very nice digital B&W prints.
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