A few tips....
A few tips....
I use stock and replenish methods for the developer, and the developer lasts quite Two months is about right. What I use is lab machine type chemistry. The developer designed for machines is usually the replenisher, which in turn is a slightly more potent version of the developer. I process just about every film (BW, C41 and even E6)
I start off by mixing 2 litres (the machine solutions make about 10 litres per batch) and separate this into two 1-litre containers. One becomes the developer and the other the replenisher. The original "unseasoned" rep solution can be used as is as developer, with no significant ill effect. After perhaps two rolls, the solution is seasoned enough.
The developer is returned to its container after each use. It will discolour and darken, but it will still work. Before the next roll is developed in it, a certain amount of replenisher (the 2nd of the two prepared solutions) is added. How much depends on the chemistry and amount of film used. For instance, the Fuji Hunt developer R I use requires about 60 mls per 35mm film developed. Some of the original used developer may be discarded to give space for the new solution.
The developer used this way will really last. My unmixed solutions are over 3 years old, and still work. Mixed, 4 months, which is about the same time the replenisher is depleted. Once the rep is depleted, mix a new batch of dev and rep solutions.
Bleach baths don't really oxidise and deteriorate the way developers do. They do need to be aerated. Shaking it in a large container (half-full) strongly to make it froth usually works.
Fix baths are just like the fix baths used for BW. They will last long, until the fix bath's roll capacity is reached.
There will be a lot of carry over of the blood coloured bleach into the fixer so that in time, the fixer may become a bleachfix (blix) bath. This may cause the fixer to deteriorate sooner. Two quick water rinses to remove the bleach before the fix can prevent this. In machine processing, film is squeegeed tightly so carryover of the bleach is minimised.
It is also better to use kits which have separate bleach and fix steps. I have negatives which retained some silver. You can check this by observing the negative by strong reflective light, through its base. If you see a slightly shimmering grey mono image, it means that there's some silver left in the cyan layer. This will make the reds look like rust, diminish the colour saturation, and add grain.
