NukePity
Member
On the one hand I was thinking this could be temperature related, as the digital thermometer I've been using (a several-months-old Taylor 9842) reads 1 to 1.5 or so degrees F lower than my two older analog thermometers. Depending on which thermometer is correct, I could be using too-cold developer. Does this result in cyan/blue scanned pics?
On the other hand I was thinking the cyan/blue was blix-related in one or two ways. First, due to blix leaks I stopped inverting 4x every 30s and instead leave the blix cap off in between agitations, then invert 1x, followed by some brief swishing around. This keeps leaks low. Perhaps I'm under-agitating? Or, maybe there is a problem with my blix solution. I purchased a 2L unicolor powder kit to save money, split it into two, then mixed only one half for a 1L batch. I was 'sorta' mindful to 'stir' the powders to achieve close to consistency as far as particle-sizes are concerned. Maybe I messed up nevertheless and am using weak blix?
Anyways, I simply don't know enough about c41 to know what causes cyan/blue scanned pics. I kinda wanted to know so I didn't have to do another test roll or more to troubleshoot. Thanks in advance...
On the other hand I was thinking the cyan/blue was blix-related in one or two ways. First, due to blix leaks I stopped inverting 4x every 30s and instead leave the blix cap off in between agitations, then invert 1x, followed by some brief swishing around. This keeps leaks low. Perhaps I'm under-agitating? Or, maybe there is a problem with my blix solution. I purchased a 2L unicolor powder kit to save money, split it into two, then mixed only one half for a 1L batch. I was 'sorta' mindful to 'stir' the powders to achieve close to consistency as far as particle-sizes are concerned. Maybe I messed up nevertheless and am using weak blix?
Anyways, I simply don't know enough about c41 to know what causes cyan/blue scanned pics. I kinda wanted to know so I didn't have to do another test roll or more to troubleshoot. Thanks in advance...
Ranchu
Veteran
Have you scanned C41 before, and not had the cyan cast.
michaelwj
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Just quickly, when you say you got the 2L box and split the chess to make 1L how did you do this? From my 1L kit there is 66.3g of developer per litre for example. Did you weigh exactly the right quantities?
Adding on to Ranchu's post above, once scanned can you correct it? And further, was it daylight film in daylight? Did you use a skylight filter/colour correction filter/etc?
Adding on to Ranchu's post above, once scanned can you correct it? And further, was it daylight film in daylight? Did you use a skylight filter/colour correction filter/etc?
michaelwj
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Also, did you read the troubleshooting?
If you have a reddish cast then the documentation says the Blix was too cold or too short, so maybe your Blix it too hot or for too long?
Further, a magenta cast is from too much agitation or too warm developer - so I would guess its the under agitation that is the issue. Is magenta anti-cyan?
If you have a reddish cast then the documentation says the Blix was too cold or too short, so maybe your Blix it too hot or for too long?
Further, a magenta cast is from too much agitation or too warm developer - so I would guess its the under agitation that is the issue. Is magenta anti-cyan?
NukePity
Member
thanks for the help here...
no filters, film is ektar and portra 400, both same cyan/blue scanned imagines. they correct fine with color balancing in ps, except maybe a few underexposed ones (which all happen to be in full sun) have lost color.
i'll blix less and agitate it more with tomorrow's batch and see how it goes...
no filters, film is ektar and portra 400, both same cyan/blue scanned imagines. they correct fine with color balancing in ps, except maybe a few underexposed ones (which all happen to be in full sun) have lost color.
i'll blix less and agitate it more with tomorrow's batch and see how it goes...
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