Noll
Well-known
Had a situation recently, where my caffenol developer seems to have failed me. I'm hoping Erik or another member might be able to pinpoint why.
Here's what I did: I had 2 rolls of film to develop. First night I developed one film with CCM. After that was done, I put the developer into a covered container, and the next day, I developed another roll with the same batch. Since it was 400 speed film, I added .35 g KBr to 350 mL developer to make it into CCH. I developed the second roll for 14 minutes at 18 C, however it came out incredibly thin. There were only the faintest ghosts of images present on the film negs. Did the developer die overnight? I was under the impression that caffenol kept for at least a few days.
It could have been the camera, but I've examined it and it seems to be working OK - I don't think it underexposed that badly. If there is seemingly nothing wrong with my procedure above, I'll take another look at it. Thanks all.
Here's what I did: I had 2 rolls of film to develop. First night I developed one film with CCM. After that was done, I put the developer into a covered container, and the next day, I developed another roll with the same batch. Since it was 400 speed film, I added .35 g KBr to 350 mL developer to make it into CCH. I developed the second roll for 14 minutes at 18 C, however it came out incredibly thin. There were only the faintest ghosts of images present on the film negs. Did the developer die overnight? I was under the impression that caffenol kept for at least a few days.
It could have been the camera, but I've examined it and it seems to be working OK - I don't think it underexposed that badly. If there is seemingly nothing wrong with my procedure above, I'll take another look at it. Thanks all.
pdh
Established
Caffenol is a one-shot developer - you mix it, use it and throw it away.
While I know there are reports that you can store Caffenol, there are no guarantees that it will keep OK
So in your case, you were using a partially-exhausted developer which you then stored, which would have allowed the developing agents to oxidise.
While I know there are reports that you can store Caffenol, there are no guarantees that it will keep OK
So in your case, you were using a partially-exhausted developer which you then stored, which would have allowed the developing agents to oxidise.
randomm
Well-known
Yup, it does not keep. Always mix a new developer when using Caffenol.. Also, with KBr I have had mixed results and tend not to use it, just develop everything in CCM.
Noll
Well-known
It has been a while and I think this thread needs a bump. First off, thank you to Eirik and the rest of the Caffenol Cookbook gang. The PDF was much appreciated and I'm looking forward to trying the "rs" versions at soon.
Up first is Ilford Pan F 50 shot in my Diacord TLR. Developed for 13 minutes in Caffenol CM at 66-68 F (19C), 3x agitations/ min. This roll came out a bit on the thin side, but much of it could have been exposure error on my end.
Next up is 35mm Arista Edu Ultra 100, box speed. THIS FILM LOVES CAFFENOL CM! Developed 11 minutes at 66F, 3x/min agitation. If I can keep this up I will no longer miss Plus-x. Apparently the film needs to be shot fresh. The 6 months outdated Foma 100 developed with it did not have near the same pop. Developed in the same soup as the Pan F 50 above, about 30 minutes later.
Up first is Ilford Pan F 50 shot in my Diacord TLR. Developed for 13 minutes in Caffenol CM at 66-68 F (19C), 3x agitations/ min. This roll came out a bit on the thin side, but much of it could have been exposure error on my end.
Next up is 35mm Arista Edu Ultra 100, box speed. THIS FILM LOVES CAFFENOL CM! Developed 11 minutes at 66F, 3x/min agitation. If I can keep this up I will no longer miss Plus-x. Apparently the film needs to be shot fresh. The 6 months outdated Foma 100 developed with it did not have near the same pop. Developed in the same soup as the Pan F 50 above, about 30 minutes later.
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Well done, keep up the good work.
AlexisNeel
http://alexisneel.com/
I REALLY like this shot...especially that there is so much one could do with a print on this one. Moody lith printing, to some need split toner combinations. Even without some fun printing styles it is a nice shot especially the way the names pop on the headstones.
Well done.
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Thank you. The Kowa glass (85/2.8) here is eye wateringly sharp. Pity it is playing up, or I'd use it more. I used a tripod, and worked hard to get the right depth of field. But boy was it windy!
Noll
Well-known
Has anyone here had decent results using CC-H to push tri-x to1600?
swifty63
Fiat lux
First attempt with Caffenol
First attempt with Caffenol
I've been meaning to try and give it a go. So I brewed up some Caffenol-C-H and souped a roll of Rollei Retro 80S. Some hiccups, fog was quite heavy I think because the Vitamin C didn't all dissolve, plus there were some irregular streaks at the top of the roll, maybe from foaming, not sure. Anyway I have figured out how to dissolve the VitC separately in hot hot water before adding to the dissolved Na2CO3, hoping for better results then.
This one turned out OK, Hoya R72, EI 3, scanned on Epson V750: Mamiya 6 / 150mm.
Thanks Ezzie and associates for putting up the Cookbook, I followed your instructions!
First attempt with Caffenol
I've been meaning to try and give it a go. So I brewed up some Caffenol-C-H and souped a roll of Rollei Retro 80S. Some hiccups, fog was quite heavy I think because the Vitamin C didn't all dissolve, plus there were some irregular streaks at the top of the roll, maybe from foaming, not sure. Anyway I have figured out how to dissolve the VitC separately in hot hot water before adding to the dissolved Na2CO3, hoping for better results then.
This one turned out OK, Hoya R72, EI 3, scanned on Epson V750: Mamiya 6 / 150mm.
Thanks Ezzie and associates for putting up the Cookbook, I followed your instructions!
pdh
Established
that's odd.
vitamin c should dissolve very easily in the soda.
you're not using crushed tablets are you? in which case they would contain other substances (e.g. fillers , sugar ) which might make them hard to dissolve
I've had no luck at all with retro 400s in caffenol, very uneven development, streaky and so forth. caffenol simply doesn't suit all films. but I haven't tried 80s
vitamin c should dissolve very easily in the soda.
you're not using crushed tablets are you? in which case they would contain other substances (e.g. fillers , sugar ) which might make them hard to dissolve
I've had no luck at all with retro 400s in caffenol, very uneven development, streaky and so forth. caffenol simply doesn't suit all films. but I haven't tried 80s
swifty63
Fiat lux
swifty63
Fiat lux
So second attempt went OK, all Vit C dissolved. The base is quite grey - is this normal? Scans OK, haven't wet printed yet though.
Rollei Retro 80S, Mamiya 6 50mm OR (+1 1/3)
Rollei Retro 80S, Mamiya 6 50mm OR (+1 1/3)
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Noll
Well-known
mmm... Mamiya lust rising.... Really nice scans swifty. Even more impressive if this was all taken through a window? Don't know what to tell you about the base fog. Fog ought not to be an issue with most slow films, but I hear of people adding salt or KBr to deal with this. Every time I add KBr though my negatives are too thin. (Then again I also can't be bothered to buy and use a kitchen scale)
I just finished digitizing a couple rolls of Tri-x - both exposed at 400, one developed in Caffenol CH and the other in Caffenol CM. I'll be posting some results here soon.
In a nutshell, though, Caf-CH for 15 minutes gave very thin negs, but fine grain and no fog. Caf-CM for 12 minutes gave very even negs, slightly more grain, and some base fog.
I just finished digitizing a couple rolls of Tri-x - both exposed at 400, one developed in Caffenol CH and the other in Caffenol CM. I'll be posting some results here soon.
In a nutshell, though, Caf-CH for 15 minutes gave very thin negs, but fine grain and no fog. Caf-CM for 12 minutes gave very even negs, slightly more grain, and some base fog.
swifty63
Fiat lux
Thaks Noll. These photos not through a window - there are slots in the outdoor windows for photographers, these photos from the 124th floor of the Burj Khalifa. I did take some photos from the inside part thru glass and the reflections kill it.
I added 10 g of iodised salt as recommended. There is only one thing left to check, I am pretty sure the soda is water-free but need to do the oven test to confirm. I use accurate scales so I know my quantities are OK.
Guess I will give C-L a try and see if that improves the base fog issue.
I added 10 g of iodised salt as recommended. There is only one thing left to check, I am pretty sure the soda is water-free but need to do the oven test to confirm. I use accurate scales so I know my quantities are OK.
Guess I will give C-L a try and see if that improves the base fog issue.
Kenj8246
Well-known
Inspired by the images in this thread, I'm throwing my hat in the ring. These are some sculptures in a nearby veteran's memorial park. Shot with a Mamiya 7 and 65mm lens on Tmax 100 rated at box speed. Caffenol-C-M with a dash of iodized salt. 16 minutes at 20C, normal agitation. I still have some work to do. And, call me crazy but I love the smell. Reminds me of my elementary school days; my school was near a coffee roasting plant.
Tmax 100 in Caffenol-C-M(+i) by kenj8246, on Flickr
Tmax 100 in Caffenol-C-M(+i) by kenj8246, on Flickr
Tmax 100 in Caffenol-C-M(+i) by kenj8246, on Flickr
Tmax 100 in Caffenol-C-M(+i) by kenj8246, on Flickr
Tmax 100 in Caffenol-C-M(+i) by kenj8246, on Flickr
Tmax 100 in Caffenol-C-M(+i) by kenj8246, on Flickr
Tmax 100 in Caffenol-C-M(+i) by kenj8246, on Flickr
Tmax 100 in Caffenol-C-M(+i) by kenj8246, on Flickr