Caffenol-C-H works

[randomm]

We've got a mail order photographic chemicals business who I managed to source KBr for a very reasonable sum (site in Finnish though http://hopeavedos.fi/). Just in case anyone in Europe is stuck trying to source some - it may be worth while to send Olli an email.

Good news Jani. Potassium bromide is not impossible to get hold of, but certainly more difficult than the other ingredients. I found that Neopan 400 didn't need a restrainer either (by mistake).

A bit of base fog is not so much of a problem, at least not if you plan on scanning only. The main problem with lack of a restrainer can be uneven development. Depends on the film though, especially with C-C-L, and how much bromide is released from the emulsion, and how.

 

[Noll]

I figure this is the de-facto "post your caffenol" shots thread.

I just developed my first film ever using caffenol! The recipe was Caffenol C-H, developed for about 25 minutes at about 19 C. I was a little nervous about the lower than standard temperature, which I compensated for with some extra time, but was relieved once I saw the negs come off the reel! Also, it didn't stink at all, not sure what all the fuss is about there. The shots below aren't that great, but I think they developed quite well 🙂

HP5+, Yashica CC

 

[Ezzie]

Brilliant, well done. You've obviously done your homework. These shine, first effort or not.

 

[Noll]

Thanks Ezzie for publishing your results for Tmax 400 development on your blog! I adapted this recipe from yours, upped the KBr slightly, assuming that 1/4tsp = ~1g. As I don't yet have a scale for precise measurements, here is what I used for 750 ml of developer:

13 rounded tsp Coffee; 9 level tsp Washing Soda; 1/4 level tsp KBr; 2 rounded tsp Vitamin C crystals. Develop 18 min, agitate 10x for first minute, then 2x/minute afterwards.

The only mistake I made was loading the film reel upside-down, leading to an under-developed 1cm wide band along the upper side. Could have been worse. I guess the base is slightly hazy, but I can still see through it ok. Not sure how clear it's supposed to be. No complaints abount grain.

OK here are a few shots: Ricoh Diacord-L (using on-camera light meter):

 

[Ezzie]

Not bad at all. The tonality of your first shot is way better than anything I have been able to get with TMAX 400. I've gravitated to Delta 400 and HP5+ instead. But your result may entice me to give TMAX 400 another go.

Whether or not base fog or haze is a good or a bad thing depends really. For wet printing it can contribute to longer exposure times. For scanning a bit if staining isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Keep up the good work.

 

[Ezzie]

Delta 400

I think I´ve got this film nailed too. Shoot at EI 400 to 800. Caffenol-C-H with 1.2g/l KBr, 13.30 @ 20C. Invert 12-15 times initially, then 3 every minute. Let stand from 10 minutes.


The Bath house #10 by Eirik0304, on Flickr


The Office by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Old gate by Eirik0304, on Flickr


S, M, L by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Escalator by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Atelier de gravure by Eirik0304, on Flickr

 

[huntjump]

nice shots Eirik. I havent done caffenol in a while

 

[maddoc]

My first attempts using Caffenol as a developer after getting the ingredients (washing soda was most difficult, I had to order on-line and waited two weeks !). The first roll (HP5+ / Caffenol-C) had a very dark film-base so I bought KBr (very cheap and easy to get at Yodobashi Camera) and tried with a roll of APX100 in Caffenol-C-H next. That roll came out OK so I tried HP5+ / Caffenol-C-H (following the published recipe) again and this time it worked better.

HP5+ / 250 ml Caffenol-C-H (~10 minutes at 25 degrees C due to heat of solution of soda)

 

[Ezzie]

Hi Gabor

Good for you. Over here I can get soda in most convenience stores, but KBr I have to order from a chemistry wholesaler.

APX100 will work fine without KBr, though a very small amount will not hurt. KBr does inhibit development somewhat, you can shorten development times by 10-20% without, depending on how much you used.

HP5+ does indeed need KBr if you want to avoid fogging (milky film base, and greyish emulsion). Though a little will give your scanner an easier time of it.

I try to do all my development at 20C for two reasons. I can compare one effort with another without taking another degree of freedom into account, and developing at lower temperatures will prolong development somewhat. The latter is not such a bad idea if you want to get the most out of the ever so slight compensating qualities of the developer.

Keep up the good work.


Nice night shot.

 

[maddoc]

Eirik, thanks for comments and tips !! My main mistake was to use to warm water for mixing the chemicals, the water temperature was 20 degrees but after adding everything (especially the soda), temperature rose to 25 degrees. I waited 10 minutes after adding the coffee to get rid of the micro bubbles but temperature was still at 25 degrees and I don`t know how fast the coffee / vitamin C will be oxidized by air (in case of juice it can be within 30 minutes).

I have also developed one roll of Tmax100 but not scanned yet ... Next goal are 4x5 sheets ... 🙂

 

[Ezzie]

Hi Gabor

I have ready mixed all solutions at triple strength and tapped off a third in volume each when developing to avoid having to wait for things to settle, temperature to drop etc. But I have dispensed with that, nearly. The reason is as you say, some of the mixes do oxidize, though not as fast as you can be lead to believe. Specifically the ascorbic acid, soda seems very stable. Also coffee will develop mould sooner or later.

I now mix a big bottle of soda at triple strength. Mostly because it does take the longest to settle, and when you mix it the temperature will rise (chemical reaction in water). When developing I just measure up a third of the total needed. The other two I mix when developing, also a to a third of the total volume and at triple strength. Then when all are 20C, I mix them together in this order; Soda and ascorbic acid first, let stand for 2-3 minutes in order to react to form sodium ascorbate. Then add coffee last. Can then be used straight away.

HP5+: I do Caffenol-C-H with 1.2g/l KBr 14 minutes @ 20C. 9-12 inversions first minute. Then 2-3 top of every minute. 1 minute water stop (fill and empty 5-6 times), which means development isn't arrested immediately, may take 15-20 seconds.

 

[Ezzie]

Gabor's night shot reminded me I've not posted any results from my two first rolls of PolyPanF. A cine film with little or no anti-halation layer, which really show on night shots with distinct light sources, and of course contre-jour and into the light.

EI100, Caffenol-C-M 16minutes @ 20C


Bragernes Torg, town hall by Eirik0304, on Flickr


If by Eirik0304, on Flickr


Summer has yet to come #3 by Eirik0304, on Flickr

 

[maddoc]

Tmax100 in Caffenol-C-H ....

 

[huntjump]

Tmax100 in Caffenol-C-H ....

Great shots gabor. You are getting the hang of it quickly it seems!

 

[maddoc]

Great shots gabor. You are getting the hang of it quickly it seems!

Adam, thanks !! 🙂 My day-job (-mad-scientist, chemist) helps, I like experimenting with this.

 

[maddoc]

Caffenol-C-L ...

Caffenol-C-L ...

... I had to try this recipe with HP5+ @1600ISO. (70 minutes stand development)

Nikon S2 / 50/2.0 Nikkor-H-C

 

[Noll]

Tmax100 in Caffenol-C-H ....

Great shots and wonderful results with caffenol, thanks for sharing. I'm curious about using C-H for medium speed films like Tmax 100. Are there any downsides to using KBr with slower films aside from longer developing time? If not, then are there added benefits to using KBr on slower films?

I ask because I recently developed a couple rolls of 100 speed film (Foma 100 and Arista Premium 100 aka Plus-X?) in caffenol C-M and was somewhat disappointed. The Fomapan was OK, but the Arista Premium 100 was very grainy. Not what I was expecting from rebranded Plus-x (then again, I've never shot plus-x either!) Maybe I overdeveloped using C-M at 20 minutes, 3x ag/min? Any ideas? Thanks.

Olympus Stylus Infinity, AristaPrem100. Caffenol CM

 

[Ezzie]

There is no need for KBr for most medium speed films. Gabor uses it with TMX and it works for him. I have also, but quit it after a few rolls. I didn't see the need. However I wouldn't guarantee that some 100 ASA films may not benefit from it.

Plus-X I've not tried (TMX, Acros, Efke KB100, Era 100, GP3 I have), so really wouldn't know if KBr would do it any good. Mostly KBr is to help even out development and limit fogging. Neither of which is needed for most 100 ASA films. 20 minutes (at 20C/68F I presume) is a bit much for most 100 films, unless it's been pushed maybe two stops. In which case you would be getting more grain. Try exposing at box speed and develop for 12-14 minutes, all else equal. See my blog (link below) for more of my own findings.

 

[Noll]

There is no need for KBr for most medium speed films......

Thanks for the tip, on my last roll of Foma 100, I used the same Caffenol C-M recipe and cut the developing down to 12 minutes. The negs came out looking MUCH better. Below is a crop from one on my last roll.

 

[Ezzie]

How big a part of the frame is that? Difficult to determine if the grain could be considered to be intrusive or not without knowing. Personally I wouldn't be too worried, unless that is the whole frame you are showing. Tonality is not too bad, maybe a tad overexposed, as I presume 12 minutes at 20C/68F would normally not mean overdevelopment on a normal 100 speed film. Shadows very well defined, highlights verging on being blown.

A small note. Caffenol can be speed enhancing on some films, pushing a half or a full stop is often not much of a problem. I however tend not to push much, or at all. Depends on the film and the general light conditions of course.

A few examples.

In daylight:

I shoot Acros between 100 and 200. Often shot with meter set to 100 with a yellow filter, the filter adding 2/3 to a full stop. Meaning real EI is 160-200. Develop in C-C-M for 12-13 minutes.

TMAX 100. More or less the same procedure with respect to shooting, but develop for 14-16 minutes.

GP3 (also 100 speed). I also quite like with a yellow filter on bright days. Set meter to 100, again meaning real EI is 160-200 somewhere. Develop for 13 minutes or so.

In darker situations I normally do not push at all, nor use filter. Develop for the same period.